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Moonshine

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About Moonshine

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    Jonesboro TN
  1. HELP - MY PROBLEM/QUESTIONS??? - my heater was eliminated by the previous owner who looped the heater hose from the water pump to the block -and bypassed the heater coil all together - in researching further w/ helpful steps from this sites threads I did a total teardown and diagnosed a few problems under the dash - it appeared that the curvy heater hose was replaced by a straight one that made a kink in the hose dis-allowing the anti-freeze to flow freely creating a leaky weak spot around the valve - besides 2 clamps not being placed correctly - so all in all the previous owner got lazy and just eliminated the heater - i had the heater coil re-tinned (no leaks) - checked all the vacuum tubes - replaced all the 5/8 heater hoses w/ new - in putting everything back together i snapped the copper hosing off the stem (photo attached) - i took the stem out and carefully re-bored w/ drill bit QUESTIONS - 1) - the stem where the copper hosing is attached - it seems to have no relavancy as a valve and appeared to be just welded to the top of the stem - can i just re-weld to existing hole w/o worrying if the hollow copper tube is flowing correctly ? what does this stem/hollow tube do?? 2) In reading a few threads i found that a few have eliminated the heater valve w/ another one from other vehicles and/or just replaced w/ a gate valve in the engine compartment - & when u want heat u just turn on the valve - but i see no diagrams & it seems as if im back to square one w/ no flow to the heater coil - i am not the one to "jerry rig" but to stick to the OEM parts - but do want heat anyway possible Any input/photos/diagrams would be appreciative
  2. Appears as if we are working in the same area HELP - MY PROBLEM/QUESTIONS??? - my heater was eliminated by the previous owner who looped the heater hose from the water pump to the block -and bypassed the heater coil all together - in researching further w/ helpful steps from this sites threads I did a total teardown and diagnosed a few problems under the dash - it appeared that the curvy heater hose was replaced by a straight one that made a kink in the hose dis-allowing the anti-freeze to flow freely creating a leaky weak spot around the valve - besides 2 clamps not being placed correctly - so all in all the previous owner got lazy and just eliminated the heater - i had the heater coil re-tinned (no leaks) - checked all the vacuum tubes - replaced all the 5/8 heater hoses w/ new - in putting everything back together i snapped the copper hosing off the stem (photo attached) - i took the stem out and carefully re-bored w/ drill bit QUESTIONS - 1) - the stem where the copper hosing is attached - it seems to have no relavancy as a valve and appeared to be just welded to the top of the stem - can i just re-weld to existing hole w/o worrying if the hollow copper tube is flowing correctly ? what does this stem/hollow tube do?? 2) In reading a few threads i found that a few have eliminated the heater valve w/ another one from other vehicles and/or just replaced w/ a gate valve in the engine compartment - & when u want heat u just turn on the valve - but i see no diagrams & it seems as if im back to square one w/ no flow to the heater coil - i am not the one to "jerry rig" but to stick to the OEM parts - but do want heat anyway possible Any input/photos/diagrams would be appreciative
  3. Appears as if we are working in the same area - hopefully photo attached will help - you can also google image search (280z heater valve) - from your photo it appears as if they eliminated the heater valve all together and is a constant flow - does it feel as if your heat is always on??? if you are going back to original - please let me stress that the small hollow copper tubing is fragile and can easily snap off from the sensor stem if you are not careful hence my problem - it is supported by a metal clamp housing that slides threw a hole on top of where the heater valve/water **** bracket - below that stem where the copper hosing connects to - there is another small stem that slides on the bottom that is held by a set screw - not fun putting back together - that metal clamp has two small tabs that need to be turned up to hold into place - if those parts are missing i would recommend another from a junkyard or ebay - make sure you replace the seals in the valve before re-assembling - good luck HELP - MY PROBLEM/QUESTIONS??? - my heater was eliminated by the previous owner who looped the heater hose from the water pump to the block -and bypassed the heater coil all together - in researching further w/ helpful steps from this sites threads I did a total teardown and diagnosed a few problems under the dash - it appeared that the curvy heater hose was replaced by a straight one that made a kink in the hose dis-allowing the anti-freeze to flow freely creating a leaky weak spot around the valve - besides 2 clamps not being placed correctly - so all in all the previous owner got lazy and just eliminated the heater - i had the heater coil re-tinned (no leaks) - checked all the vacuum tubes - replaced all the 5/8 heater hoses w/ new - in putting everything back together i snapped the copper hosing off the stem (photo attached) - i took the stem out and carefully re-bored w/ drill bit QUESTIONS - 1) - the stem where the copper hosing is attached - it seems to have no relavancy as a valve and appeared to be just welded to the top of the stem - can i just re-weld to existing hole w/o worrying if the hollow copper tube is flowing correctly ? what does this stem/hollow tube do?? 2) In reading a few threads i found that a few have eliminated the heater valve w/ another one from other vehicles and/or just replaced w/ a gate valve in the engine compartment - & when u want heat u just turn on the valve - but i see no diagrams & it seems as if im back to square one w/ no flow to the heater coil - i am not the one to "jerry rig" but to stick to the OEM parts - but do want heat anyway possible Any input would be appreciative
  4. 8 second Z - took these last year at a local track here in TN - Thunder Valley - Bristol Motor Speedway - streetfightz - steroids isn't even the word
  5. In calling a few junkyards in a 20 mile radius - i found a few Z's - there are some silly misc parts i need for the build - dash bracket, door handles, seat belt covers, emissions canister/bracket, switches.... photos above is a yard a few miles from me - he had 3 Z's - found everything i needed & w/in budget - yet a bit depressing to see these neglected gems in a sea of rust/metal
  6. Interior tear down - as previous noted - problem with the heating - during diagnostic - few weak clamps seemed to be the problem - many visible neon green anti-freeze stains on the stems on the heater control valve & heater core inlet/outlet - one unstock hose was forcibly pinched which perhaps caused a weak spot - i would say it is imperative to have the correct hoses in place - along w/ reputable - stainless steel clamps - and most definetely replacing clamp that can be tightened with a socket - phillips heads on originals were corroded - not fun removing and not an easy spot to work in - thorough cleaning of all units - heater coil refurbishing is worth the extra bucks in the long run - one link i found to be very helpful to remove/replace heater coil - http://www.maplesoft.net/datsun/repairandupgrade/heatercore/index.htm
  7. FYI - nice turn key Z for sale - http://www.usedcarsplus.com/classic-cars/03-use/datsun/150542993370.html
  8. removed many interior components today -after inspecting heater core - seems as if the green stained neon leakage is stemming from the heater hose flanges/heater valve - untightened laziness?? came too far not to have the heater core removed/refurbished - in researching - heater valve usually is the first to go - o-ring inside and seal outside is notrious for fouling - lack of flushing - anti-freeze/water ratio - unbalanced - update/photos to follow - tomorrows project :stupid:
  9. i see what u saw - for some reason thats green overspray - ive been knuckling white oversparay as well everywhere - perhaps was in garage with other more important projects bein sprayed - i reassure you that this puppy was originally yellow - its in every nook & cranny - personally i hate yellow - cant wait to re-face w/ new paint - todays 8 hr project was strictly interior - i spent an hour polishing the ash tray - ol lady brought me a few hot choclates during the days event - she is right - ive neglected her now that i have this Z - addicting hobby
  10. when all is said and done this is the appearnce i wanna emulate - (flat black)
  11. Engine Tag reads = L28 100516 - but could not find matching tag on front right strut housing
  12. good stuff !! thnx for diagram/pic - just found this one on e-bay for $20 - but from a 79 280zx - looks the same - universal?
  13. good stuff !! thnx for diagram/pic - just found this one on e-bay for $20 - but from a 79 280zx - looks the same - universal?
  14. Headed out to the garage - dash removal/replacement is next - is there a way to check leakage in heater core - pressure test? - plug up one side - fill w/ water - air nozzle other end?
  15. love ur Z !!! just curious - why is the back sitn lower than the front

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