IdahoKidd

I agree with Carl. On a 240, a salvage title would greatly affect the investment side of buying the car. A few posts back, someone mentions that if were a hemi cuda, it would be different. Absolutely it would, there are very very few of those around in any condition, much unlike the relative plethera of 240Z's in almost every condition. In Idaho, we have a reconstructed vehicle title, which is different than a salvage title. I can legally combine two cars with different vin#s so long as I declare it. I get a title that states such. This affects the value of every day driver cars but lets say I want to put my 57 IH on a 2005 3/4 ton chasis, I can do so and the value could be greater because of it. Some of the cars that go through the Barrett Jackson auctions that are the major customs probably don't have a conventional title but can be worth a ton of money, but usually because they are unique. I feel a little guilty about beating up on oemz car, but I guess he did ask. I believe I have a lower mileage 240 (43K) based on condition and previos owner statements and very limited amount of receipts. Can't prove beyond a shadow of a doubt though. It was also repainted right after it was originally purchased (same color) and I can tell the radiator has been to a repair shop. Sounds like a front end smack of some sort. The repaint, although pretty good, still has the tape marks on the rubber trim and bits of over spray here and there. Just enough to be visible if you look for it. This instantly brings into question whether the mileage is correct and I can't help but believe it hurts the value should I try to sell it as a low mileage car. I'd be better off to declare mileage unknown. Kudos' to OEMZ for at least declaring the condition of the car. Not everyone will do so. If it were local and affordable, I'd give it a serious look. Leonard

Nothing about this sounds like a good time! I'm betting you have lost a wheel bearing. Could be a relatively easy fix if it is, could be a major expense as well, depending on whether it took the spindle and or the hub. Of course you'll have to lift the corner and pull the wheel and take a look at what all is going on. Sorry to hear about the trouble though, never is a good time to break down...... Let us know what you find. Leonard

Went and looked at the other 72. The rivet is plastic, but does not have a push pin in the center. It is built more like a traditional thumb tack. It is grey to match the panel. At least on this car. I remember it being the same on the other car as I couldn't get them to pull out so drilled them out. Not sure how well the ones pictured would work as they would set up higher and might interfer with the hatch.

Looking for some myself. Aren't they grey however? And metal? I remember drilling them out instead of pushing the center in. I think......

Follow up: Dave's right, it is much easier with the panels loose as opposed to pushing the lip under. It was a black dragon seal and went on pretty well although it fit much better when it was fit into the correct corner to start :stupid: The hatch shuts with a firm push and the best part, the whoosh of air that was coming through the seal is now gone. The car (automatic garage find of 43k miles) is now a daily driver :love: It isn't perfect, won't ever be, but is very very sound and ready to go. One more project to move off of the "unfinished list".

Another clue might be when the salvage title was issued. If it was when it was relatively new, the damage would likely have been substantial (ratio of repair to purchase price). If it was recently, it doesn't take much to "total" one of these cars. Salvage title would be okay for a driver, but not for a collector car I'd think. Of course, one could always buy my extra title and vin plates...................

Steve, It does appear that is probably how it should be. Seems like it is going to fit better. I was hoping it would hide the transition a little better though.

Going to give the inner hatch seal the "old college try" today. When removing the old one, about half of it was tucked under the plastic panels, and the other half was over them. Over has a more "finished" look I guess. Which way should they be? 72 240 btw Thanks! Leonard

Not even close I don't think. I have over 10K into paint and interior alone already. 3500 into engine and trans, another grand into shocks and bushings, and I am doing the work myself. Still have all of the detail stuff to do. 20 grand on top of purchase to make it a #1 car I'd think. As with most of us, it is the love of the car, not an investment. I don't think that car would be worth 30+ as a restored car, but maybe......

I take a lot of crap about it. People can think what they want, but it all comes back to getting a woody when I drive it.......

In anticipation of theft, I used 1/4 inch stainless steel pop rivets to save my personalized plates (only ones in the US thank you!). That was 9 years ago and still have them. (could be no one wants them.....) Never know for sure if people are pointing to the car or to the plate. Thinking of getting Cialus to go on the restored Z just for the giggles. Maybe Zialus but who'd make the connection.

Thanks for the thoughts guys. For the past two days couldn't go out of the house for fear of the worst. Was told even if I tripped and fell, I'd never make it long enough for the ambulance to get here. Apparently I am one of the "rare" ones that has extreme reactions to the poisen. Tested at a 3 INR today, so bought a new brake master and hope to install without skinning my knuckles (which they tell me could also have been fatal). I've always been a rough and tumble type. Watched more movies in the past week than I have in the past 50 years combined. (Elvis makes a lousy Indian by the way) Going absolutely nuts! Better than the alternative though (I think). Hoping his turns into "something I had when I was young". Plus, I have had time to take care of a few other "unfinished projects" so perhaps not a total loss.

Enough to kill the rat. Becoming more afraid of the doc than the clot. 7.6 INR, should be 2.5. Maybe tomorrow........ Bought $560 in parts from the Black Dragon this afternoon though so remaining optimistic And thanks guys Leonard

Looks okay from here in Idaho. Another "thousands invested, will take hundreds".

Hey guys (and girls), how many "unfinished" projects do you have currently underway? Personally, I have my 444, which like my Z, will never be "finished", but I have a 57 International that I intend to restore, a 52 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe that needs about 10 hours to be complete, a turbo 77 that is begging to be finished, both persimmons Z's to finish, not to mention the house, which I started remodeling 8 years ago and intend to finish when "there is time and money at the same time". I ask this question to put it all in perspective. I just underwent a routine surgery to have a bone spur taken off my heal (its been an issue for a couple of years but finally got around to having it fixed). Long story short, I got a major blood clot in my leg and it has been day to day for the past week or so whether I'd ever get to finish any of my projects. So now my list of projects to finish are getting my living will in order, something I've been putting off for ever, getting a will in place, and getting a new list of priorities line up; getting a daughter lined up for the rest of her college, getting a list of important papers together so someone could find them, etc. I know that if I were to read something like this on this board, like others, I'd go "bummer", I'd give it some thought, and I'd put it on a list of things to get done. But maybe, even if one person gets this important stuff done, it will make a difference. Doc says I am at the 50/50 stage but at least it is moving up. I look at the unfinished projects and really wish I had more of them into the finished side of the yard but focus has never been my strongest suite. So, take a minute, decide what projects are most important to get finished in the event, any event, you don't get a chance to get back to them. Things happen fast and they don't always happen to the other guy. I plan to post a pic of my finished car in April or May! Thanks for the help along the way! Leonard

Hey Rick, that must be some high mileage 260 to be on it's 18th rebuild!

His post 7 came up while writing my post 8..... 3 quarts of oil in a 1000 miles is over the top. Something is wrong inside. 180K miles on these motors isn't a big deal when properly maintained. For all we know, it hasn't had much in the way of oil changes, etc etc. I'd still check the basics discussed here and would be looking for a known good used engine ($200 to ?? -wouldn't pay over $600 and there are 100's out there) or pony up and spend $2000 if the rest of the car warranted it.

Get the factory service manual. There is on available online, (someone here will need to chime in and get you a link). That will give you a starting place. You can have a lot of little things that all add up. Personally, I'd put in a new fuel filter and check the fuel pressure first. Then I'd check the timing. Check to see that the dist plate moves with vacuum (even sucking on an attached tube) and I'd spray wd all over the thing (inside, including the cap). Cozye is correct, a bad temp sensor, or one that has a poor electrical fitting will mess things up. My personal experience is that so long at the compression between the cylinders is 10% variation, it should run along fine. You didn't say how long you've had the car-more specifically, how long it has been setting. Rotten gas and a sludged up tank are big issues with these cars. When you replace the filter, tap the "in" side gently on a white paper towel and see if little fragments of crud come out. Could be a sign. Let us know what you find. Leonard

When you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it? If you didn't, with someone holding the pedal down, crack the bleeder screws on the side of the master just under the bowls. If you get air, do it a couple of times until no more air, then rebleed the system.

Pages AC 8, 9, 10 in the factory service manual have good illustrations. They show a vacuum set up. My 10/77 does not have this, but it also does not have ac. Perhaps the difference.

My 77 still has cable controls to the flappers and theromostat. Am thinking it was 78 that they went to vacuum and all the troubles. What is the production date (on door jamb) of your car?

Thanks for the response guys! I am boogered up and can't get out much so was helping over the phone. It appears the crane ignition was fed from a fuse that didn't go off with the key, and thus.........well, it doesn't go off with the key. When I know for sure, I'll pass on the info for closure.

Man that was fast! Thanks for the memory trigger Arne. He has a gm alternator so that makes sense. Newly modified harness so no real clue exactly what he has going on. First time start tonight.

Helping a buddy with his 75 280. He's taken the efi off and put on the tripple webers, etc. He says the motor won't shut off with the key. I have read where it needs a diode installed but can't remember where it would go. Anyone onboard that can give us a hand tonight? Thanks! Leonard edit: crane xr3000 fireball ignition

Hey Italian, welcome! Find the search button, and read read read. Some great info here and you can't possibly ask a question that hasn't been asked. You can spend hours and hours just learning.