Jump to content

IGNORED

'A Fuel-injected Investment' and 'Identified Datsun Flying Object'


skunkbud280Z

Recommended Posts


Did you see the one with the police car chase?

A girl in a 280Z is being chased down a country road while a police car and a mysterious plane chases, the plane drops a bomb in front of the 280Z and the girl panics, swerving and stopping the car, blocking the road. Then the police car clips the front of a 280Z! :eek::mad::devious:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll get one soon out of gratitude for this great website! Money's tight for me right now unfortunately and I've got major brake repairs to do on this car. Brakes seem to bleed but no pressure. Got one bad wheel cylinder, and I'm almost sure my master cylinder is shot. Z-shop told me it was going bad over 12 years ago and I neglected it when the brakes still worked. My car drank a lot of fluid when I was bleeding the brakes and the fluid level in the rear-brake reservoir is going fast, and losing some fluid from the front reservoir as well. With NO fluid anywhere spilled on the floor, I'm starting to worry the MC is leaking fluid into the booster and I suppose I'll be getting brake fluid in my intake so I'm not even running the engine right now. I am tempted to pull that line where it clamps onto the booster and see if there's any fluid coming out. I trust that if things are working correctly, there is nothing but vacuum in that line?

I would do all this brake work myself (and would LOVE to), these brake fittings are just so tight every time I try to touch one, the only thing I need help with is to loosen them up. I'd almost tow my car to a shop, have them go around and loosen all my brake fittings, then put it back on the tow truck and tow it back, but getting someone to cooperate with such madness (for them) is another thing...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would do all this brake work myself (and would LOVE to), these brake fittings are just so tight every time I try to touch one, the only thing I need help with is to loosen them up. I'd almost tow my car to a shop, have them go around and loosen all my brake fittings, then put it back on the tow truck and tow it back, but getting someone to cooperate with such madness (for them) is another thing...

Get a 10 mm flare nut wrench and http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100328 and your brake line work will be easy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and I was using locking pliers on the other side as counter torque. And I sprayed it with WD-40 at least 10 times and left it for a few days before trying again to loosen it. The fitting began to round off on the flare-nut with just a modest amount of torque/counter torque so I went ballistic on the fitting with a 2nd vice grip. Locking it down as hard as I could and it STILL slips(slipped) on the fitting. It's frozen in place, hasn't been touched in 32 years. I've done so much damage to the outside of the fitting at this point I've chewed up half of the metal on the fitting with the vice grip, it's basically completely round now with groove marks from the vice grip, and still the thing won't budge. I'll dread having to cut the line next to the fitting and get a new fitting and reflare it, but I don't have any of the tools to do that, I don't want to have to do that all the way around the car, especially since I've never done it before and wind up buying $50 in tools for nothing and create even more expense for myself by the mechanic having to replace the metal lines, which are hard to even find anymore.

I need other options. I've tried tapping on it with a hammer and the vice grip slipped around the fitting with that too. I even tried to wedge pins in the rounded corners and thereby jam the wrench onto the fitting so it wouldn't slip off, to no avail. My latest idea is to boil some water and slowly pour it on the fitting, the only thing I haven't tried yet.

It might be the way I'm using the tools at this point, but I'm about to just tow it to the garage and have them do everything and hand me a huge bill because I really want to drive my car...fast.

This brake work is easy, if I could only loosen this stuff I could do the rest so easily. The fittings on my '94 Camry's master cylinder were a lot easier to move than its wheel cylinders. Maybe the Z would behave similarly but I'm upset at myself at this point I never want to strip another fitting again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you see the one with the police car chase?

A girl in a 280Z is being chased down a country road while a police car and a mysterious plane chases, the plane drops a bomb in front of the 280Z and the girl panics, swerving and stopping the car, blocking the road. Then the police car clips the front of a 280Z! :eek::mad::devious:

That was a ZX, but yeah.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well now that the flare nut is rounded all bets are off using conventional tools. Use a torch to break the joint loose enough to use regular vice grip pliers. Next time a nut starts to round use the Vise-Grip locking WRENCHES to preserve the hex (it is stronger than flare nut wrenches). Good luck and don't catch the car on fire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 189 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.