conedodger

First, take a box knife and cut just along the outside border of the chrome trim so that you cut off the outboard lip of the trim. This allows you to remove the trim without bending it up. Store it safely. Next take the box knife and cut along the outboard edge of the glass all the way around the glass. Now, push from the inside and remove the glass. Now, pull out the old rubber weatherstripping. Not sure what you mean by urathaned in place but it only requires the weatherstripping to hold it in place. Anything else is just overkill by whoever put it in last.

Dave, It isn't specifically a swap meet and I do have one every spring but go ahead and bring your stash... I decide the etiquette I guess and it is ok with me...

If you like them and want to use them, I have another set I just took off. PM me...

One week to go! The October Sacramento Z Car Reunion is October 23rd! 9am to noonish - Family Donuts and Deli, Fair Oaks Blvd. and San Juan Avenue... Come on down and meet the gang! Don't miss it!

IIRC from a story in Grassroots Motorsports Magazine about a guy with a 'budget' 944 racecar build, most steering racks are rebuilt by a company on the East Coast somewhere. I will try to find the story. If it is still true, they worked directly with the individuals and not just rebuilt for Kragen and such. Cutting out the middleman might make this cheaper. Also, as I recall, it wasn't that complicated to rebuild the Porsche rack. How complicated could ours be?

I agree with Steve... It is kind of cultural to the experience the cars had when they were on the road. In the Midwest they rot out from road salt but they can't be driven in the winter so the driveline is in good shape and rubber weatherstripping is probably good too. Here in California, the driveline is shot and so is the weatherstripping from the year long driving and the sun. We should have exchange wrecking yards!

I have 'a' shifter lever but I am not sure what it is from other than a 280Z

Rest in peace PLN...

Drive to Nevada

Take it back. If you can catch a nail, you probably need it bored which means new pistons too...

Or, you could just buy it directly from BRE. They sell everything you need to make your car a clone.

It's a metaphor for the easiest to check and fix...

A big thanks to silverstreak for dropping off his '73 240Z track car for me to use as a comparison model while I tracked down all of the underdash wiring. The center of his dash is a bit hacked as he has no need for radio hookup but for the most part this help was invaluable. Thanks Bill! You're the best!

Consider (check) the low hanging fruit first. How are the UJoints on the half-shafts? The pumpkin itself isn't difficult to replace. Once man, one day or less.

It's a simple fact. Donuts don't eat themselves. Cops have investigated the heck out of it. We need you to do your part. Come on down to the October Sacramento Z Car Reunion two weeks and an hour and change away. See you there!

Ship 'em to Rebello!!

I did this a month or two back (and wrote it up here too). I used Scotch Brite pads to rub the steering wheel along with some dish soap to take off the years of hand goo. I followed this with steel wool. I thought that stain would be needed as the finish of the 'wood' after this was whitish and ugly. In a search of the site I found what others had done plus I referenced the Humble book as well. I went straight to Spar Varnish once the wheel was dry without any stain. The write-ups were correct. The proper color comes right back. No stain is needed...

I agree... HP doesn't really mean much with stroker motor. Torque is everything about how we drive these things while HP is just number that most of you are lying about anyway.

Three weeks till the October Sacramento Z Car Reunion! Don't screw up and miss it. See you there!!!

What will you be doing on October 23rd? Going to buy candy for Halloween? Don't be foolish. Come on down to the October Sacramento Z Car Reunion! Be somebody! Be seen! Have a donut!

I really liked the feel of soft stock springs and stiff bars front and rear for autocross. This combo allowed me to throttle steer the car and had a very controllable oversteer tendency. On the track, the rear bar made things, well... exciting. Different set-up for a track car I think. More spring, no rear bar possibly. Don't know, but I will soon be finding out as my friend Bill Madamba will be Z schooling me on the track. Set up is often driver preference though... So take all this advice and consider your own preferences for handling.

Don't forget to remember, the October Sacramento Z Car Reunion is Saturday, October 23rd 9am to noonish! See you at the donut shop guys!

I can do smallish parts at home. Z-Train hits it right on the head with his post. Every time I walked into the powdercoating shop for a large load I was given a story about how the Feds and the County and City were killing him and yada yada yada and then he tried to kill me with his prices. When I started having parts powdercoated, it was bring all you can haul and we will do it for $100 bucks. The last load was much smaller than that and he wanted $500 bucks. Paint starts looking awfully good and you start thinking you might have an obsessive-compulsive disorder when the guy starts asking for that kind of money. Yup! For $500 bucks paint starts looking really nice...

I have done extensive powdercoating on my 914 and some on the Z. It can be expensive unless you have an adequate home setup. If I had to do it over I would paint much of what I powdercoated. I just did the rear panel and grill with the paint that Les Cannaday supplies. It was a bit glossier than I expected but what do I know, I don't recall how glossy they were from the factory.

Not sure what ratio it is but it stays. It has a Datsun Comp LSD.