Zedyone_kenobi

Arne, sometimes your expanse of knowledge amazes me. You would think I would be use to it by now, but MAN... you got that from half a stamp!!!! I am humbled sir... HUMBLED

UPDATE: I took Arne's advice and used a copper crush washer on the Beck/Arnley slave and it did not leak at all, and in fact worked. I am still unhappy with the angle of attack on the clutch fork and will replace the B/A slave with the Nabco when it comes in, but I can drive the Z again!

Well it was a nabco and 11/16th, but maybe your right, I will go take a closer look. However, I will say this. When I installed the 72 slave on my car with this hose, and bled it, it did not leak at all. Not even a drop sans copper washer. Maybe the stack up is just better on the nabco's. OR maybe it would have started to leak later. But for the week it was installed, it did not leak. The Beck/Arnley leaked from the get go with just gravity. I can say that I do not think the hose I had was original. So may be hose was replaced a long time ago, and with it the copper washer was lost as well. Thanks very much for posting that image Arne.

So Arne, your saying that the washer (2) should go on the slave cylinder end versus the hose to hard line end? If so, your right, that is a terrible picture. The first picture says so.. interesting. My old setup did not have this to my knowledge. I bought a large pack of copper washers today.

I replaced the old hose with a new beck/arnley hose.. haha.. You would think they would be compatible. I am wondering if I can use a copper washer in between to make a seal. It is not that high pressure. I think that the B/A would have probably worked, but I think the tolerances are a bit off on mine. I would wager that they are not as controlled as an OEM part.

UPDATE: Courtesy lived up to their name and agreed to get me the right part or refund my money. VERY good customer service from David from courtesy. They are a class act in admitting a mistake and tried to do everything to make amends. Well I ordered that rockauto part, and low and behold, it came as a silver beck/arnley part (read cheap crap). Nothing at all like was pictured online...so you cannot always trust rock auto to send you the part pictured, they do cheat at times. I decided since the slave they sent me, although it looked and felt cheap as hell, I would install it. After all it did have a threaded pushrod ( 3/4" too long and the hemisphere that pushed was 2x as big as the OEM one), and an eyelet for the spring. I first noticed that when I installed it it sat crooked. The bolt spacing did not allow the slave to push at 90° to the clutch fork. IF that did not suck bad enough, the flexible rubber hose would not seat properly against the slave body....what do I mean by that.. lets me try to explain it.. look at the red plug in this picture on the nabco slave. If you look carefully around the red plug you can see a round recessed relief cut into it a few thousands deep. This is to provide a good sealing surface. The fitting on the rubber hose that screws into this is completely flat..the top left of this picture is the end that goes into the slave. The threads on that fitting go all the way down to a flat land where the hex nut is. It is one piece and is meant to sit flat against the machine piece on the slave. Well my beck/arnley slave has a recess MANY thousands deep and the flat on the rubber line fitting cannot come into contact with the sealing surface.. so it leaks. So now i have 2 slaves, that do not fit or are the wrong part, and I have to ship them both back... I am going to give courtesy a call today and see if they can let me know what part I would get if they sent me a 71 slave...

agreed, you better make sure he knows what is involved.. these are not Camaros,where you can drop a strut in like 10 minutes.

You guys and your 16" rims!!! You making me want some VERY badly!

I think your doing pretty darn well with your Z, keep it up. It is always great to see another Z on the road

Welcome, have you found one yet, do you know what your looking for? How much do you have to spend?

901 silver can look very tasty! And I am not really a fan of silver cars most of the time!

WOW!! That is blue!!! I mean BLUE

Good for you dude! Great news...keep it up. You will find that once the move around, the desire to work on them increases dramatically.

I am very glad you decided to stay as well boomboom. I often have paint and body questions, as I am more of a mechanic than a artist. The admins job is not one I would cherish. The standard of posts on this z site is the highest I have ever seen. They are just cautious to keep it that way. Welcome boomboom. I will probably be posting soon when I try to strip down and get my rear hatch resprayed.

THe rims are not my cup of tea, but I really do like your interior. That is very classy.

I would wager that you had a top mount battery from the beginning. It is an easy swap. You will need new positive and negative cables, which should not cost that much. You can get them from black dragon or MSA. The installation is easy, and if you take your time and replace one cable at a time - one fitting at a time, you will be just fine! IF you have any questions at all, just ask.

Will the factory battery hold down equipment work on an optima red top. I need something to hold my battery in place better than the plastic bin and a nylon strap the PO gave me.

yes, the 70, 71 and early 72 model years.

You sir are the man!!! I have the 72 FS Manual, and for 99% of the stuff I need it for its perfect... but this is one instance, the 71 is far better, thanks for putting that in this thread. You just improved the usefulness of this post by 100%

UPDATE: Courtesy Nissan said they had a mistake on their website and offered to pay for me to ship my part back to them and they would get me a new one in 3-5 days from receiving it. That really will not work for me time wise, as I need my car to be ready by the 8th for a car show. I am going to try to ship it back and go for some store credit as I will be using them again. Mistakes happen, and I they handled it with class. In the mean time I used RockAuto to order the slave pictured above. I hope it is as pictured. Courtesy said they require me to send it back in the original packaging. I threw that away, so I hope they will still let me return it. I will get that installed and report back. By the way, there is no mention of how much slack there should be between the pushrod on the slave and the withdrawl lever (clutch fork, what have you). There is a certain distance you can push the withdrawl lever by hand until it stops...now what I do not know is when I actually bring the bearing into contact with the spinning clutch fingers that pull the assembly away form the clutch disk. My plan is to stay on the conservative side. I am going to reinstall the new slave and match the installation of the old one to the last thread. I will make sure some of easy to move travel is left before I push the pedal.

I love rock auto, there have a picture of the ACTUAL part you are buying, which in our world of subtle mid year changes is worth its weight in SU oil.

IF you run the K&N without horns, then I would bet you a shiny OEM waterpump that adding the horns gave you the HP, not the lack of filter Frank. I think you really need to look at 70 Cam Guy's picture as your solution. The Cda of an orifice (in your case the knife edge of your carbs) drastically influences the way air flows through it Just rounding off the edges a little makes a huge difference in the discharge coefficient, thus upping your air flow and HP respectively. I would find a way to run a filter AND your air horns, and you will get that wonderful feel ALL the time.

Check out my adventure with retrosound. I have their product and it is wondeful right now.. but I had an adventure getting it installed. Miles, I had the same issue, call them back and make them fix it. refer to the post below for details. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37020

So that sort of reaffirms what I thought that the slave I removed was the original one. Great bit of research LMCguffin! I have the clutch working now, I used my mityvac and bled the system thoroughly with much success. I sat back in the car and the pedal felt limp as heck right up until the last inch or so where it felt normal. Looking at the 72 FSM I got from Xenon on line it shows the exact slave I received. One thing of note. My 71 slave cylinder has a hole for the spring to attach cast into the body of the slave, which the one I got from Courtesy does not have. Meaning they sent me the wrong part. rock auto sells this part, which appears to be a Nabco sold under the beck/arnley name that not only has the ear tab for the spring, but has the proper pushrod, and it sells for about 20 bucks. While the courtesy part cost me over 50 with tax. DRAT.. I may have to order this one so I can have the proper slave as right now my spring is hooked to my bleeder screw. Meanwhile.... I crawled up underneath and noticed I could move the clutch arm with my hand about 1/2 inch until it got to hard to budge. I used the double lock nut on the pushrod and tightened it up to that point. Now my pedal feels like it has some good resistance and the clutch works fine. I just wonder if I have it adjusted too tight.

I have not checked the FSM yet, but is there a rule of thumb on how to adjust the hemisphere on the pushrod that engages the clutch arm? How much slack should there be? I have mine tightened down to the point where the clutch arm gets too hard to move by hand. I was just thinking that if I tighten it down too much I would be riding the throwout bearing the whole time.