Zedyone_kenobi

Is that a defect blue, or is just an inherent Weber 'thing' I will keep an eye on it.

Okay, I could not sleep, so I got up and took the car off jack stands and adjusted the fuel pressure to 2-2.5 psi, and let the pump run for about 30 seconds. Zero leaks from anywhere. I am going to set the idle mixture screws to 1.5 turns out, the idle speed screws to 1/2 turn from contact with the throttle, and have a go today after work!!! Wahoo, this is getting exciting! Well maybe I should put those springs in the bottom of the carbs holding the heat shield instead of a washer... hummm, okay after that it is vroom vroom time.

Thought about it laying in bed this morning. I have the rear of the car jacked up quite a bit so that may be the cause of my leak. I will check today

That is awesome! Thanks Leon! UPDATE: I figured out my return spring situation, and for now I am happy, but I forsee a much cooler solution in the future using the fuel rail. However, that is hooked up. I fired up the CARTER pump, and yes, it is a bit loud, but once the car is running I do not think it will be an issue. I had a leak at the pump I had to tinker with to get to seal. Finally found some yellow teflon tape approved for fuel and it sealed it up tight. Absolutely NO AN fitting leaked on ounce, so that is money well spent. I had no other fuel leaks save one. I noticed some fuel on my heat shield... and then noticed that number two carb was dripping a bit. I had the pressure up to 3 psi at the time. Holley reg works with ease. I am guessing my float could be off, which would not surprise me, as absolutely NOTHING has been right yet with this install. Every single thing required some form of modification to work. So I am guessing that in order to check the float, I have to pull the top cover off. Before I set out and do a huge search, is there a quick way to set the float?

Referencing Arne's recommendation. I had the centercaps in a drawer while this was taken. but I have some 15x7 panasports sitting in boxes ready to be shipped as we speak! Make offer.

You can set up a crank trigger ignition for 399 dollars? I did not know that. I am running a recurved factory dizzy at the moment, no vacuum advance. I was thinking of going mallory as well, but will hold off on pulling that trigger until I have the carbs more in tune. Never change that many things at once! You never want to second guess your carbs AND your ignition if you have a choice.

I have spent so much time working on my car, I have not given this any thought, but I still mean to make a run of it. I am going to the TEXAS 1000 in November put on by: www.vintagerallies.com I have been working to get the Datsun ready for that feverishly. So with that being said, this summer, I will not be able to plan this. However, I will say this. The TEXAS 1000 goes on the same roads as I was planning last year. So I will learn a lot in doing this rally, combine that with what I learned and the connections I made last year, I will definitely be putting another rally together in the future. I just cannot stay married and do two of them. I will work something out soon, and get something on the calender. I still have to get my car running on its webers, and then prepare for my engine coming in form DAtsun Spirit, AND my transmission swap from Zcarsource. Its going to be a busy busy summer.

I think I have the same pump, and I have it all hooked up and will hopefully fire it up tonight. A lot of how loud these pumps are is in how you mount them. If your carter is the same as mine, then it came with rubber bushings. I put those in between the frame and the pump bracket, AND in between the pump and the pump bracket. The pump is double isolated. It still may be loud, but the install is clean and extremely rugged and durable. I will let you know how she performs, hopefully in less than 24 to 48 hours.

I am using the same heat shield sourced from Japan. Right now I have it installed with Zero springs, and just use washers and bolts. I found it easier to get a socket on the bottom nuts if I took the air horns off. REally gives you some hand room to maneuver. That washer technique is a good one Mike. My problem is when I installed my studs I used that hardcore aviation grade locktite my dad gave me. And I installed them so that their is not much stud length on the outside...(:stupid:), But now that I have everything held in place, I could probably remove one at a time and install the spring on each one. Other than that, I only need to find some return springs today at a local parts store. Carl, Mr. K bobblehead would be perfect! hahah

I did the next best thing, I read the directions! I got her on. Today I just about finished up the install. I have all the electrics hooked up. Verified all the fittings are tightened. I have the throttle cable ran, and attached to the rod. I have all the arms adjusted to exactly the same length. The only thing I have to do is get a longer return spring somewhere, as my SU return spring is not going to work out as well as I thought it would. Then turn the key and check for fuel pressure and leaks! Then it is set the carbs at a good starting setup and let her rip!!! Very exciting! I am looking forward to hearing her run. This has been a long process, as every single part going on the car had to be modified or made to work with the OEM datsun stuff. I guess if I were not abject to cutting up my car, it could have gone faster, but the OEM car lasted 42 years, and I do not mean to do anything that will not last another 42.

UPDATE: I finally was able to get back into the garage late tonight. I got my throttle cable hooked up, which was of course, not a direct fit and required some clever drilling and filing. With that being said, I have a new name for my pain... It is called the heat shield. How the sam HELL do you get that thing bolted on with those stupid little springs that came in the weber kit. There is just no room to install them!!! Any tricks!

yeah, this is definitely in the Future mods category It just killed me to pull those choke cables out of my firewall when I installed the Webers. I hate having a non functional part inside my car.

I spent the early part of my life tinkering with Holley carbs. They are wonderfully easy to mess with, and simple to work on. The have very understandable primary and secondary circuits. but OZ connection is right. The key to a good running engine is knowledge first and foremost. Read as much as you can on holley vacuum secondary carbs, then gain as much data as you can. Forget about the library, go to amazon and BUY that holley book. It will serve you well. You will gain something new each time you read it. Also I will echo, you cannot tune a car with carbs sitting in neutral. It does not work that way. The engine needs load to produce driving conditions.

best of luck buddy!

Tacked on, But that is how they did it in the70's, they tacked it on! HAHA

Just want to update this thread, as it was the genesis if my triples review thread. I am about a week away from starting up the car with triples! We will see what the air fuel ratio is when I get her going, of course the chances of the jetting be right out of the box is next to Zero, but it should get running and at least move fine enough. My gosh I miss driving her.

Oh yeah let the fabrication party begin!

Bingo guys I found where the rear green wire ends up. I hooked up a voltmeter to the green wire in back and propped up the meter near the rear tire. Then ran a 12v hot jumper straight to the battery and used that as my ping signal:cool: I looked for green wires and low and behold I found my connector and started to get 12.7 volts back to the pump wire HUZZAH! I just need to hook it up to a 12V switched power (like the black/white wire directly next to it on the same plastic plug shown in blues Picture) and fit a 20 amp fuse and relay and presto! Power to the pump! This really goes to show the value of an original car who has all stock wiring

I have not wired in a relay at all. I have seen the green wire in the back, and I do not care how it gets back there, but I have NO idea where it is in the cabin. After it goes in the chassis in the back it is GONE. I guess I could start pulling interior bits off to find it, but I really do not want to! If I knew where it was, I could tap into it. I still want to wire in a relay, but I will worry about that after I get the car running.

I went to ebay motors and typed in the search engine "universal fuel rail" Got more hits than I care to mention... http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3841.m570.l1313&_nkw=universal+fuel+rail&_sacat=

Ah yes, the age old question, how to ship a car. Well there are as many ways as there are Z's out there to ship. Well not that many, but get the picture. Questions you need to ask yourself are: How much do you want to spend max? Do you want the car picked up and dropped off to you? Do you want an enclosed Trailer or on back of a flatbed? Are you willing to work around the shippers schedule? Do you require a large name brand, or will a guy and a truck suffice? When I bought my Z from North Carolina, I had it shipped via enclosed trailer to Houston Texas. It was about 1390 dollars door to door. Here is the truck and how it arrived at my house. You can make your decision, but peace of mind was worth the extra money I spent. now having said that, I am looking at those 240Z stickers on my car that I removed and they are suddenly looking far better than they use to.. Hummmmm

No it is there bud, but I cannot find where that wire is IN THE CABIN. I know the rear wiring harness comes into view again around the passenger door. I have no idea where that wire goes inside the car is my issue. It is not getting any power that is for sure. I know the green wire is suppose to get 12V, but unless I find it in the cabin and feed it some power, I will have to run a wire.

Well here is an update on the install. I laid on the ground for about an hour last night with the electric fuel pump in one hand and the pump pre-filter in the other. I pondered how to get them in there safely and smartly so that the hoses are not too kinked, and it was as OEM as I could make it. I finally found away to route the darn fuel lines without disturbing any of the factory fittings, clamps, or hard lines. I am very pleased how this turned out. Next I turned my attention to the electrical side. I really hate messing with wiring, but since I could not get any power to my rear green wire, AND I could not find where that particular wire surfaced again under the dash, I pulled off my center console (had to do that anyway, as I need to decide what I am going to do with my choke cables) Low and behold, I found this little jewel still taped up with factory blue datsun electrical tape and tucked away. Well I think it was from the factory. It has a green wire, AND a black/white wire. The green wire acts weird when the key is turned and fluctuates a millivolt reading constantly. However, the black/white wire, which is 12V in darn near every other place on the car is a switched 12V supply here as well. Eureka! I still need to run the wire to the pump in the most unobtrusive way I can. I would like to run it inside the car all the way to the back, but I may run it next to the factory fuel lines so I can keep it wire tired close to the tranny tunnel. We will see. dhoneycutt, Thanks very much. You should see it now. I spent an hour polishing it with some aluminum polish last night. Looks like chrome for the moment. I purchased a 30" length of extruded aluminum tubing. It had a 1/2" hole through it. It was round on one side and square on the other. I cut it to be about the length of the valve cover, so I could use 90 deg bends to go around it. The brackets I made allow me to get access to the valve cover bolts without taking off the fuel rail. I also used longer studs in the intake so I could remove the fuel rail without taking off torque from the intake. I used the square side to attach my carb fittings (drilled and tapped 3/8" NPT using Russell -AN fittings) I thrn drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT for the autometer fuel gauge after the third carburetor. I tapped Both ends of the line to accept 3/8" NPT. Right now the front end has an NPT fitting to a 90 deg bend that goes to the fuel regulator. I have since fabricated a support bracket to hold the fuel line secure so it is not dangling in the front of the engine. The back of the fuel rail is plugged, but I think I may run a return line in the future to factory spot next to the alternator. I can run a -4 AN line with a restricter in it to give the pump something to push against. This will keep the fuel circulating. So far I have not altered the car in any way permanently, and can go back to SU's in an afternoon. My goal is to not cut, chop, or bend anything I do not have to. I may remove the fuel rail one more time to manufacture a way to attach return springs... but I have not decided on that yet. My goal is to be running before the 21'st, which is a great car show I went to 2 years ago and got beat by an old celica.. which was a shame!

I do agree with you A well tuned engine is more important than peak numbers

You know after reading it again, I could have worded that better! Hahaha