Zedyone_kenobi

Peace wade, but this could be a combination of the three, or an intermitent or rpm dependent failure. Also, he is obviously working along, and that can give you challenges all by itself. Sometimes just having 2 more hands to help you can do many more simultaneous 'fixes', and try more things. What we need here is a spreadsheet, with everything that has been tried and how it was tried. We can figure this out.

mmmm gunmetal panasports..

great work I am so jealous of that paint!

Just a follow up to close this thread. Keith send me a refund of all shipping costs to my paypal account before I even had a chance to email him. He said it should have been free shipping. Class act!

He was referring to the toyota 2000GT that sold for 1.15 million at auction. His enthsiasm is great, but his attention to detail is a bit off.

Get some kind of filtration on that thing sir!!!! I do not want your new engine to suck up dirt!

Will do, let me know what you may be interested in...or are you looking for recommendations. Eiji is a great guy. Really allowed me to enjoy the whole process

THE 4x8 sander is great, but you still need to check the flatness. Even though it was a flat sander, there is no guarantee that even pressure was applied across the intake. You should find some kind of trustworthy flat surface, and take some feeler gages to see if there is any uneven surfaces.

I did not say it was nonfuncitonal, but after 42 years, it probably is not all that spot on any more. By the time we get these cars, lots of things have 'changed' since new.

Okay buddy I have been thinking. I would like you to try to remove that regulator. I know you said it was putting out 1.5 liters smoothly, but that was with zero backpressure. Regulators require backpressure to work. What we do not know is how it is metering fuel with that electric pump AND that regulator. I would like you to try to run with a different regulator maybe. I am still not convinced it is not fuel related.

I have not read all of this thread, but what about a non parallel intake? While the carbs are off, why not try a new manifold? I can ship you my polished SU manifold? NO cracks and perfectly flat if you like.

DOT 4 fluid for sure.. But if you are not going to occasionally track the car DOT 3 is perfect. Just get a good brand name and you are set. also, invest in some speed bleeders.. you will thank me later.

Congrats and welcome to the club. My advice is to take a good look at all the wear items. Bushings, belts, brakes, mounts, etc. Get the car safe first. I would not worry about the engine too much. Likely an engine with 200k that is running well, will keep running well for a while anyway. It has reached a point of stability and 'seasoning' Also, a complete fluid flush would be a good idea... coolant, oil, BRAKE FLUID, trans and diff would be a great start to your rejuvination. It will also get you familiar with the car at the same time. one last thing. T-tops are very cool. Time for your son to grow a stand alone mustache!

I am looking forward to it. Just a shame as I have 300 dollars of idle jets in my carb kit right now that could be rendered obsolete. Man, just bought my jackets and my 28 thousanths inserts, but 30 dollars shipping!! OUCH. these things can fit in an envelope!

The OEM guage is notorious for not reading accurate. I had a brand new datsunspirit engine installed in my Z and it was running great, but when I came to a stop it read very close to zero. I bought a new sending unit, removed the crappy pigtail going to the sending unit. Cleaned and soldered all the connections. But prior to hooking everything back up, I hooked up a simple mechanical gage to it and it read 25 psi at idle fully warmed up with 10w30. So the OEM datsun gage read 0 or close to it, but a new autometer mechanical gage read 25. Do not get too worried. IF you must know, buy a simple mechanical gage and test it to give yourself some peace of mind. But I bet it is a combination of the sending unit combined with a crappy OEM gage.

I have not had a chance to drive it yet, but it is set dead on 13 Deg BTDC. I will take it for a drive sometime this weekend if I can get some kid free time... I called up Mallory and they said they have never heard of this before, and that I am the first... Great.

Thanks!!! I am about to drop an order for 6 jackets and 6 inserts.. thinking of going with the 28 thousands insert as that is about equal to 60F9 which I currently run and am fairly dead on with AFR

I know if them, I know of the yahoo group that he inhabits, but I will be damned if I can find his online store.

I have been wanting to get my vents redone lately.. It would be a good time to do that if I could just get that darn dash form you know who!!

Well some interesting news on this topic. I checked my timing today after doing nothing but replacing the ignition module. I had severe pinging last time I drove it, and no wonder. At 900 rpm, I was sitting at 21 degrees BTDC!!!!!!! Again all I did was replace the ignition module on the Mallory. I have no idea why it would effect timing so much. I had it set at 14 BTDC, but just replacing the module the tolerance stack up and module delta equated to 7 degrees more change in timing. Crazy

I may look into picking up a 280Z dizzy. Now is the curve from your 280Z dizzy OEM, or do you rely on your MSD box for the ignition curve?

I am going to check the timing when I get home hopefully. It should be 14 ° BTDC at 1000 rpm. It should be 31 ° BTDC at 2800 rpm. I will let you know if it shifted. IF that is not it, then I will put some good gas in it, as that 92 may be exasperating the problem. It is already on the ragged edge with 93 octane. That 92 is not doing it any favors....

Strange thing happened on my way to the car show this weekend. This was the first time I drove the car since I installed the new ignition module. The car was pinging like crazy. If I was as low rpm in 3rd or 4th just giving it moderate gas would make the engine ping like mad. This had never happened since I recurved my dizzy long before the rally. But the first drive after the new ignition module I get it all over the place Now, this would seem to indicate that there is significant difference between one ignition module and another. Yet another sign that Mallory quality control seems to be a bit shakey.

Still to put all that work on the paint an interior and then leave the engine the way it is boggles the mind. These are not hard engines to make look good. The are relatively free of stuff, and yet, his looks so cluttered and confused. Having said that, if the body is truly rust free it could be a great starting point if all it needs is some cosmetic surgery

That was just hilarious... had to keep watching!