JonnyRock

WingZro lists them on ebay pretty often. He'd be able to tell you. Or you could just search for ANSA, and his post'll come up.

Looks that way at first glance. Look closer, he just swapped hoods. One striped Z, one plain.

Mine's in exactly the same place. I don't think it's weird at all. It's the perfect location to be driven by an accessory belt.

Mine had A/C added at some point, though it doesn't work now. It's in the same position as the alternator, but on the drivers side of the block.

There was no factory A/C in '71.

I replaced my water pump last weekend (PITA btw), and after I had finished I noticed that the various engine and suspension components on the passenger side of the engine compartment had a speckled look. At first I thought it was because of the large amount of rain we get up here, which of course prevents me from keeping the bay clean and dry. But the other side looked much better by comparison. But I had just gotten done bending over my fender for roughly two hours and needed to let the silicone dry, and it was getting dark so I figured I'd try to figure it out the next day. Well when I started her up the next morning to make sure all was well with the new pump, it became immediately clear why it was all speckled in there. Gas was dripping out of my fuel pump at a prodigious rate.I'd say a drop or two every 3 seconds. And they were all flying back into the compartment from the force of the fan. I witnessed a few land on the side of the battery! So I think I need a new pump. Maybe I just need a new gasket, or just need to clean the old pump. I'm not sure. This is my first non-EFI car. My repair manuals say how to replace it, but they don't offer any info on inspecting the pump itself to tell if I need a new one. BTW, I am going to stick with just the mechanical pump. I don't want to add an electric one, or switch to an electric one. I like keeping the engine predominantly stock.

I've heard that the factory air box was actually a very good design, and taking it off to use separate filters doesn't improve things. I don't know if that is true however. What I do know, being a vehicle design major, is that alot of work went into the design of most everything under the hood. I'm sure the engineers considered the separate filter-no airbox route and dismissed it for some reason. I know I've had problems with engine temperature, and it may be that they used the box to ensure cooler air went into the engine rather than warmer engine compartment air. That's all educated speculation.

Get with the pics already!

I too take all of this with a grain of salt. The underground tanks can't be affected much by weather, as my old basement barely was. Evaporation inside the tank is thought provoking, but minimal I think. However, the part about when the tanks are being filled is true. It stirs up all of the particles which settled to the bottom, so stay away from them at those times. As for the political, no boycott will be large enough to effect any of said companies, or their policies. And don't even get me started on Ethanol. Thats an arse-backward solution if ever there was one. Drives up food prices, drives down fuel efficiency, and has a net effect of increasing pollution.

Yes he does, and I can tell you that it looks great in person. Although he has yet to actually finish welding it. If you search for "grill" in the gallery pages, 90% of what shows up are pics of his custom Aluminum one.

You might think about using a Fairlady type grill. They were wire mesh. Looks pretty sweet, and totally functional from a racing standpoint. This is from Geezer's gallery:

Just spent a few hours last weekend flushing my cooling system and installing a new GMB pump. $26 @ the local auto place, and so far it's working like a charm.

From what I've read about those wires, the "Competition" part really needs to be respected. I can't remember the web site, but it said basically bar-none, that those should not be used in a street engine. So even though it would be cool to say "I've got a set of NOS Datsun Competition wires in my car," I wouldn't run them if I were you.

I was hoping you'd reply before I tried to sort it all out.

Randy, Just thought I'd weigh in on the ebay issue. After weeks of little to no response from forums when I attempted to sell my truck last August, I decided to put it up on ebay. It was a very interesting experience. First off, do be anal about it's flaws, but also be clear that none of them are major, and you won't take any lowball offers because of them. Your intention is to make the buyer completely aware of what they are purchasing. Because it's ebay, your posting will get a crapload of hits. I was amazed at the number my truck got after so little attention on the forums. Because I'm fairly experienced with ebay, I stated very clearly that all bidders need to contact me before bidding, or I would cancel their bid. Even then not all bidders complied. I also put my cell phone number on the listing because I needed to sell the truck, and therefore needed to know the winning bidder was legit. Let me agree that yes, you will get tons of lowball offers/tire kickers. Ultimately the winning bidder did not contact me prior to using the "buy-it-now" feature, but turned out to be a great guy and was very happy with his purchase. You may have more luck with the forums than I did, but don't write of an ebay sale. It's a great venue and I've almost always had a positive experience. You've got a great looking Z (even though I prefer your green one :laugh:) and any buyer should be happy with it. -Jon *hope my rant was somewhat useful.

The spark plug socket is convenient, but not entirely necessary. The nice thing about a spark plug socket is that it has a soft insert inside it which grips the end of the plug, preventing it from falling out while you're installing and removing your plugs. If you don't currently have one (sounds like you don't), you can pick one up at any hardware store; or if you have a sufficiently deep 13/16 socket already, that can be used. It just takes a bit more care so the plug doesn't fall out of it and screw up the gap, strip threads when you start, or break the porcelain.

I know it's not new guys, just wanted to let everyone know to keep their eyes out for brand new chargers specifically. When I was in highschool, my local fuzz had 2 WRX's, a gold Intrepid, and a few Expeditions they'd use in our school zone every day pretty much.

Your local CHP has just received 88 sparkling, new, unmarked Chargers. Watch your mirrors guys! http://www.autoblog.com/2008/02/23/california-speeders-beware-chips-getting-new-unmarked-chargers/

Finally got the new Sony unit cleanly installed. The lower edge of the stock trim piece was broken by th PO, so Dave had to fab up a new lower panel out of ABS plastic. Came out really nice, and with some convincing, the whole stereo sits very well now. Once again, Dave is a miracle worker. Get yourself an HLH, PLH, LED tailights, and everything else that he offers. You won't be sorry!

I'm glad this thread has led to so much conversation! I'd like to respond to your thoughts: I agree that 17's won't look right on my Z with it's stock suspension. That said, a few of you have pulled it off very well! This is a universal rule, and I was well prepared for the loss in ride quality, if I could find wheels that looked the part. A sad reality I am now facing. They're good looking wheels, but I was hoping I could find something more contepmorary. That is a looker. But farther than I'd like to go. Those are interesting, but I need a wheel with at least 5 spokes. Any less looks weird to me IMHO. Waaaaaaayyy to basic IMO. That is a great looking wheel! A good deal above the price range I was hoping, but thats Volk! Thanks, but again too basic/billet looking IMO. Those wheels do look spaced out a bit much, but I love them! I love my wheels, but decided to step up to a new size because of the lack of respectable tires in the 14" size. Anyone have any idea how I can get my hands on a set of these? I'm checking all CL's and ebay from now on. So I've learned a lot about how the different sizes appear and whats available in our bolt pattern and compatible offset. The search continues!

I'll try to make it. I get my work schedule for then in a few days. Sounds like fun, and exactly what I've been looking for.

Thanks guys! I can see what you're saying about 17's being too big. I'm aware of the loss in ride quality, I just think of them as "the right size" wheel for most applications. For a Z tho, sounds like 16's would be right. Konig Rewinds and Panasports are what I'd like to stay away from. And I don't think other vintage wheels like AR Torq Thrusts would give me the look I want, so it sounds like I'll need spacers just to find a contemporary wheel. I have searched around the site for information, but most of this forum is dedicated to talking about Panasports, and most of that "other" forum talks about radically changing their suspension (going to 5-bolt setup, coilovers, etc). Does anyone know of a site that will give me information about using spacers properly. It seems sketchy to me.

Hey guys (and gals), I've been looking into updating my wheels recently and hope to do so relatively soon. The problem is, I've had a real rough time finding ones that will fit. I'd like to stay away from spacers, or modifying my stock suspension. I'm currently running a set of old school 14" gold mesh Enkies. I'm planning on keeping them, but would like to update to at least 16, if not 17 inchers. No Watanabes because while I like the look, that's what everyone seems to do (or look-alikes). So I'm hoping you guys could give me some good ideas! I think the wheels will need to have little to zero offset. And they need to have at least 5 spokes. Thanks for the help!