240dkw

I agree, because his vacuum advance is at 12 o’clock. But did not want to go down that rabbit hole. Thought readjusting the plug wires was a better option.

As well, yes your distributor is in the wrong orientation, but just leave it like that. Find TDC on cylinder #1 on the compression stroke. Where ever the rotor is pointing install plug wire #1 there and do the rest in the right firing order counterclockwise. Fixing you distributor orientation is best left for another time.

OK I read you additional text and you will not get a spark while cranking the way you have it wired. You need to wire it with the powered b/w on one side of the ballast resistor and the g/w wire on the other side of the resistor and then the jumper from the g/w terminal to the coil +. I don’t know why you keep trying to do it different, Yarb even drew it out for you!

Yes they started it New Westminster, here is a 72 brochure that has that address. And the early brochure has nothing on it other then a printed in Canada mark. I have never seen anything from the early / mid 70 that is printed in French.

I think he said that there is power on the neg coil, so I don’t think it is a ground, bad connection or points are gapped on the cam flat and never close. Or bad coil.

If the points are open than yes to both and power in run and start.

Where the wire from the - on the coil is connected on the dizzy and the side of the points that should have 12v the one connected to the spring and the one the red wire in your photo is connected to.

That is interesting, I wonder if that how we ended up with the unique brochure that came with all 69-70 Canadian cars, it was definitely printed by Datsun Canada in Canada.

Again why are you asking this question? We already determined that the b/w from the coil is not working and installed a jumper exactly where you red line is???

Does anyone know if Nissan Canada use a window sticker like these on the 69-70 cars? Maybe even earlier on a 510. From what I read it was a US law to have them, but not sure about in Canada. @zKars @grannyknot @Namerow @CanTechZ

No that is high voltage coming out of the centre post on the coil, that is why you test it using the coil or plug wire to ground. The high voltage is created by the points going open from a closed position. Again you need to read and study the info I posted in post #33. It is all there on how it works And why I want you to measure the voltage at the dizzy terminal and at the points (with the points open) to make sure everything is working correctly. Yes power on both sides of the coil is good.

Kind of, there is always power on both sides of the ballast and the jumper is just there to bring power to the coil. And yes power goes through the coil to the points.

Yes that is correct you want power all the time, now move on to the other measurements and stop cranking it over looking for a spark. I got you to install the jumper so we can test further down the circuit to see why you’re not getting a spark, not to fix the problem. If you want to understand how the circuits are working look again at the information I posted in post #33 on how the ballast works.

First thing is how is it that you have 12v at the green wire and zero volts at the coil I thought you hooked up a jumper between the two. What about the other measurements? Did you do the measurements with the points open? I thought we already decided that the b/w from the tach was bad and that’s why I got you to install a jumper from the g/w to the coil.

Not till you confirm you have a good 12 volts getting to the points. One thing you can do if the power is good to the points is rotate the motor until the points are closed and then with something non conductive open the points and see if you get a spark across the points. It is not always visible so you can try a few times pushing them open and then letting them close. If that looks good then try the same thing with a plug wire and plug like in your second drawing and see if you get a plug spark. This is of course with the key in run.

Yes both are correct, please tell us what the volt reading is on the + of coil, - of coil, the neg point on the dizzy and at the points. Remember do this with the points open and the key in run. And your meter ground connected to the engine.

OK when you have it wired like I asked in the last post, start measuring for power at the - side of the coil and dizzy with the points open and the key in the run position . Stop trying to crank it over looking for a spark, We know there is no spark, by measuring the voltage path we can help you find why there is no spark.

I don’t think a car that wired to have no power while trying to start it will ever run. You already said in a previous post that you had power on the green white wire when the key is in the start position. Could you please connect the b/w with “run” power to one side of the resistor and the g/w with the “start” power to the other side of the resistor. Then connect a new wire jumper from the g/w side of the resistor to the positive terminal on the coil. This way you will have power to the coil in both run and start.

If that b/w is the one that you tested and has power than the answer is Power on run, but no power on start.

Yes that is a problem, you should have power at the coil wire if you have power on the g/w wire. To see if that is your only problem. 1) Disconnect the coil wire, leave the resistor wires as they are. 2) add a jumper from the g/w terminal to the + coil. 3) make sure the points are open. you should now have power on the - side of the coil, at the terminal on the dizzy, and on the + side of the points. If all that checks out Ok and still no spark then you are back to a bad coil or wire. Or possibly a bad capacitor on the dizzy.

No that is still not correct you should have power on + side of the coil if you have power at the resistor. What is your Ohm reading if you hook up the meter to the g/w wire and the b/w wire at the + on the coil with the wires disconnected from everything?

Yes for all the lights and other things to work that need a chassis ground, but not for your problem, the ignition system grounds though the engine block. Which brings up a good point, if you don’t have that firewall ground connected and are measuring for power your ground for the meter must be connected to the motor somewhere.

All that is a normal spark you get when you have a small gap from power to ground. Nothing to do with the coil.

Sorry I missed this post yesterday, first thing is to not try any continuity tests while you have the key on unless you are quite sure what you are measuring. You can blow a fuse/ damage something doing that. I am not sure what you mean by “complete continuity”. If you mean that the meter shows an Ohm value instead of 0.00 than yes that could be normal as you are measuring two ends of a circuit that is connected to other circuits in the car. As Captain Obvious pointed out the g/w - b/w circuit goes through the tach and if I recall correctly in 73 they changed how the tach pick up works sometime during the year. So I can’t really say what you should read because I don’t know what kind of tach you have. As well the Captain is correct, you should do the hot wire test.

That is correct so far, but in the run position if you hook up the wire with the power to one end of the resistor and the green to the other end of the resistor you should have power on the second b/w. The g/w and coil b/w are connected inside the harness. Run = 12 v from b/w through resistor to g/w which is connected to the coil b/w. Start = 12 v direct to g/w and coil b/w