d240zx2

What do you guys think is a reasonable price for a 3.9 open diff, half-shafts, mustache bar, etc. from a pick-a-part Z? Frank

Check for my PM. Frank

Thunderhill, huh? My buddy, Bill Madamba runs a 240 there. Take a look at his two videos found here: http://vimeo.com/2403923 In the newest video, he's still sorting out a fresh coil-over set-up and big brakes. The older video is with standard everything except Mikuni 44s. Big difference. The fresh configuration cuts about 10 seconds off his lap times at TH, so Sue has a bit of competition already..... Drive safely and competitively! Frank

Try here: http://www.datsunrestore.com/datsun_stuff.html If you don't see what you need, call Troy. He may be able to give you an assist.... Frank

I posted it on the forum, General Discussion, at www.thewoodlandscarclub.com. It's not too active, but it's had 15 reads or so since posted. Frank

The combination of parts shouldn't create a problem. You did not mention if you had put fresh gas in. That could be a large contributor to your rough running...drain and refill w/ fresh hi-test... Frank

As in exhaust notes....

That'll be nice to hear, Stephen. Maybe we can compare notes... Frank

A very good psychological evaluation of most of us here. When are you headed for Texas World Speedway, anyway??? Frank PS: I'm stealing your write-up to post on another forum....just so you'll know. I'll give you full credit....

BobC, if you have an arc welder available, you can get that broken stud out pretty pronto without damaging the head. Get some small diameter high-tensile strength electrodes (110,000+ psi tensile), 1/16" diameter. Set your machine to run on the cold side, 35 - 40 amps. Place a steel washer over the broken bolt and begin "dabbing" at the broken bolt with the electrode. Don't worry about chipping the slag. Keep "dabbing" until you've got a bit of a build-up. Let everything cool for a minute or two, then get a nut and weld that to the build-up you've created. Allow to cool until you don't smell burning flesh when you touch it. Take a wrench and back it right out. If done properly, it shouldn't take you more than about 10 minutes. I speak from experience on a Chevy 454 and my own L24. It works. Good luck. Frank

Have you tried contacting Wilwood? They may have a variety of fittings available. Frank

Then a PO recovered the seats. ALL 240Z seats have the breather holes in OEM covers.

Quick answer to MikeW: The switches aren't functional, just there. Got a reply from 2nd owner, Mike. He said he didn't change anything. Therefore, I must have, although 1) I don't remember doing that, 2) I didn't have the $$ to change it, and c) I did not have a reason to change it. Plus the fact that early on in the car's life, I installed mechanical gauges on a plate and mounted them over the fuse box in lieu of the cover/ash tray. Geez. Besides, I put out a considerable number of Winstons in that ash tray behind the shifter.... Is it possible that an 01/70 build car could have a Series 2 console? Naw, I didn't think it likely, either. Thanks for the help, guys. I sincerely appreciate your efforts to unfog this foggy noggin. Frank

I've just emailed the 2nd owner for verification that he did not replace the console, 'cause I know I didn't in the first seven years of its life. I'll try to answer the questions asked now: Carl: The two objects are switches that were in the cover when I got it. Geezer: I had mechanical gauges in a plate I made in 1972. Arne: Yes, there is an ashtray behind the shifter with a "sliding roof". DougN: There's only one slot...for the choke (no longer in use). No slot for the throttle. Thanks for your help and input, but until I hear back from the 2nd owner, I'm still as confused as a dog seeing a ceiling fan for the first time. I'll post back when I hear from him. Frank

I'll try. I don't usually have a lot of success in posting photos, though...

ZParts owner Eric H. and I are trying to confuse each other.... I have a '70, 01\70, undoubtedly a Series 1 car, which I bought new. I also have a fuse cover/ash tray that I purchased (not from Eric) that allegedly fits Series 1 consoles. I have the original console in the car. The fuse cover/ash tray does not fit. Eric says I have a Series 2 console with a Series 1 fuse cover/ash tray. The fuse cover/ash tray is narrower and longer than the opening in the console. Now I know I haven't replaced the console, and neither did the second owner. So what gives here? The dimensions on the console are as follows: At the widest portion of the opening that fits under the radio, at the pins, it measures 6.5 inches +/- 1/8, nearest the shifter, 5 inches +/- 1/8 and the length is 4 9/16 inches. Can anyone be of assistance on this problem? Many thanks in advance. Frank

When I installed the BRE set-up back in '72, IIRC I had to drill holes to mount the hardware to hold the bar. I don't remember there being any pre-drilled holes, but there could have been....

Been good! :bandit: A party scheduling conflict will prevent me from attending this year's party. Maybe I'll see you at AutoRama if you get a chance to stop in.... Frank

Hot Dawg! You've sure done a lot since I last saw you. Looks VERY good, too. Frank

For those of you interested...and in the areas the new Z is touring.... What: Follow the Nissan Z <~ Click for more info. This may not be hot as it was copied and pasted.... Where: Sterling McCall Nissan 12230 Southwest Frwy Stafford , Texas 77477 When: est. Decmeber 1st, Time: TBD Why: To check out the new Nissan 370Z How: Bring out your own Z Car Frank

His work greatly improves the overall "look" of the 2+2, IMO. I'm still not fond of the roof-line, though, and that kills it for me. Frank

A bunch of old Zs are due for the shredder.... See the eBay link to learn more... [-X http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___240Z-71-Crushing-30-Early-Zs-Get-yours-NOW_W0QQitemZ220300307007QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220300307007&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Your Webers are similar to Mikuni units. My 40mm Mikunis are a set and forget carb, unless you change altitude drastically. No problem with fuel spillage, although they can and do drip a bit on start-up sometimes. I'd say keep 'em. They're good units and will give you a turbo-like rush when your right foot gets heavy..... Frank

And, there's not a Z to be found in any junk yard in Houston, either. They're all gone.

Hi, Liz, and welcome to the best bunch of Z knowledge on the planet. Based on what you said and the pics you posted, you'll need to arrest the rust monster pretty quickly else you'll end up spending a lot more than you need to. It's hard to diagnose a brake problem from what you said, so expect more questions. Again, welcome! Frank