Weasel73240Z

I decided I can't put the 36 year old carpet back in the Z. However, the rear deck carpet is literally like new. It's almost like the PO never opened the hatch. Since the repro'd ones apparently don't have the cutouts for the luggage straps, and mine is like new, I'd rather keep my original and only replace the ones in front and behind the seats. I'm trying to find a kit that doesn't include the rear deck carpet, and I've checked the usual sources (MSA, TooIntense, Black Dragon, etc.), no luck. Does anybody make a kit without the rear deck carpet? Thanks

That is a great looking 2 + 2! I've never seen one I liked before but that is sweet.

I think I can say it more succinctly....Mr. Markham came off like a bit of a tool. Nice Z.

You've got plenty of heat then...good luck. :rambo:

If you're using a bernz-o-matic torch, make sure you use MAPP gas (in the US it comes in a yellow tank). It burns much hotter than propane, and heats things up quickly.

Post some pics if you can. When I took my front suspension apart, everything came out real easy after 35 years. If all else fails, usually enough heat will get anything loose/disconnected.

Thanks for all the input. And yes, I did de-smog, so that must be the air pump connection on the back of the air cleaner...solved. I'll cap it off, thanks. Carl, I do appreciate all the input, and a lot of the stuff you suggested is in the works. All new braided hoses coming, new heater core hoses ready to go in, new alternator on the way. Radiator is coming out to be painted next weekend, all hoses will get refurbished while its out. The master cylinder caps are Nissan OEM, so I thought they were correct. Although I'm sure you're technically right, I actually like the look of the extra (bronze) color that I used on the throttle linkage, fuel rail, work light, etc. The blue plug wires too. Like they say, to each is own. If I were planning to show the car, I would have tried to stay much closer to stock, but thats not my plan. Great eye on the other stuff, air inlets, harness, battery sticker, all things I'll get going on before the Spring. Thanks.

What do you think about the engine? I shaved and polished the balance tube, replaced the Longflo filters with the stock, refurbished air cleaner box, new fuel pump and all new lines, and painted the valve cover to match the air cleaner. I polished the aluminum "Nissan OHC" on the valve cover and the fins. Also replaced a lot of worn, tired hoses. One question...In the last pic, I'm still not sure what connects to the 2nd big elbow coming out of the air cleaner, the one that faces down.

Thanks Arne, as usual, just what I needed.

I tried to order a new valve cover-to-air cleaner box hose from Courtesy, but I ended up with the hose that goes from the block (under the dizzy) to the PCV valve on the balance tube. Does anyone have the part # for the valve cover-to-air cleaner hose that I need? Also, the 1970 (or 1971) air cleaner box that I bought has 2 large connection in the back, apart from the fuel bowl overflow and the vacuum taps. I know that 1 of the connections if for the hose that I need, what is the other large one for? It faces downward, and I can't figure out what goes there. Thanks as usual for the help. If Puxatawney Phil was right, only 2-1/2 months and I'll be able to drive the Z again.:mad:

I gotta agree, that seems high. I paid $250 for a 79 ZX 5 speed with 55K. And I'm in MA, wheres Z's are impossible to find.

The inners you can do easily with no special tools the way I described. Just have a good torque wrench, and some loctite for re-assembly. The outer bushings are tough to press out. Actually, the toughest thing for me, was getting the spindle pin apart. Once the pins are out (lots of WD-40, lots of heat) I put the control arm in a vise, and melted away the rubber and inner sleeve from the small outer bushing. Grab the inner sleeve with some vice grips, and heat. Eventually, once its hot enough, the inner sleeve will pull out. The take a spade bit, paddle bit or hole saw (I think 1" is the size) and get out as much of the remaining rubber as possible. Then you have to carefully cut out the out remaining thin steel sleeve with a hacksaw blade. I put in the new bushings by slowly tapping them into place, you don't really "need" a press for any of this work. Make sure you lube the bushings when re-assembling.

Have you committed yet for $500? That sounds pretty high for a used 5 speed. I bought one with 55K on it for $250, and I'm in MA.

If I'm understanding right, and all you want to do is replace the large (inner) bushings on the rear control arms, you don't need to take anything off of the car. With the rear of the car in the air, loosen and remove the rear control arm transverse link inner bolts (the big ones that bolt into the control arm). Support the front diff. mount, un-bolt it (4 bolts). Now you should be able to slide the front bushings off of the control arm. Next, un-bolt the metal retainer from the bottom of the link mount brace, behind the rear differential. Now the rear bushing should be free. Reverse to install. Make sure you torque everything back together correctly. If you want to replace the smaller (outer) bushings, you have to take the spindle pin apart, and everything has to come out. I attached a couple pages out of the FSM to help. RA Rear Axle.pdf RA Rear Axle11.pdf

I just finished the 5 speed swap with a 4.11 R180 into my 240. Everything was strictly bolt-up, I used a 5-speed out of a 1979 280ZX. I did use my original driveshaft, tranny mounts, clutch fork and clutch master cylinder. I didn't have to open up the tranny hole, but I think the 73 doesn't have that clearance problem that the 70 has. I had to modify the speedo cog sleeve in the new tranny, but that was because I swapped out the rear end. If your keeping the rear diff./gear ratio you shouldn't have to change the speedo cog. The tranny swap itself is 100% bolt-up, at least in my experience. BTW, my understanding is the ZX turbo trannys are the BW's, and they take some fabrication to work. Stick to a (NA) 1979 - 1883 280ZX and you should have no problems. For reference, I paid $250 for the 5 speed. I think they can be had cheaper in other parts of the country where they are easier to find. Took me a few weeks to locate one here in MA.

Yes, sounds like the booster diaphragm may be bad....I think it could also be the check valve.

After looking at the pics, I'd say $5,000 is high. I paid about $1,500 less for my 73 in similar, maybe slightly worse condition, but with 28K (titled) actual miles on it.

Pics of how you have the coil wired, and of the cut wires under the dash, may help troubleshoot.

Lars, Even if you think its running well, you should check out the ZTherapy video. It really makes balancing and tuning the SU's easy. Better yet, when the budgets there, get a new set of ZTherapy SU's, you"ll be glad you did every time you turn the key.

The first thing to do is define "no rust". Have you checked all of the critical locations? I bought a "rust free" '73, and once I started digging, I found plenty. Use the search feature, and you'll find plenty of posts about exactly where to look. Even if its been in storage for 29 years it could rust, depending on how dry the garage was. The earlier cars (240's) are lighter, so some consider them more desirable. Of course, the '78 is fuel injected, which a lot of other guys prefer. I think here on the East coast, if it is in as good a shape as you say, $5,000 - $6,000 is in the right ballpark. Pictures would really help if you can post some.

I attached a couple pre-paint pics of the Tabco doglegs (mine were rusted out too). Remember, I did all of the bodywork, no pro help. I think they look pretty good, but I'm sure your bodyman knows much better than me.

FWIW, I used the Tabco panels (bought them from Black Dragon) for my 73, and I thought the fit was pretty good. I'm an amateur bodyman (not a perfectionist necessarily), but I've done a few similar jobs on non-Z's over the years. They took a little tweaking, and I had to trim the inside fender lip because it was way to wide, but I thought it fit pretty well.

I finished the 5-speed/4.11 swap this weekend. I attached a few pics. I decided to introduce a little color into the suspension, so I painted the half-shafts and control arms a gun metal gray, everything else is black. I held off on the rear sway bar for now, I'm gonna see how I like the ride with the new struts and decide if I need the bar. Most of my driving is in a straight line anyway. :devious: I don't care how many times you've laid under a car while its up on jack stands, but that is an un-friggin-comfortable position to be in. I'm glad to be done underneath the car for the Winter. Nothing scarier than shaking the tranny around to get the shaft in, while the car is held up on four small metal stands. I've been working on cars my whole life, and I still hate being under there. The work itself went really easy, no major issues. The speedo issue was easily resolved. I cut a new notch on the pinion sleeve exactly 180 degrees opposite of the original (factory) groove. The pinion slid right in and engaged the tranny gear, no problem. The half-shafts, driveshaft, mounts and all of the other original components from the original 4-speed/old differential worked fine without any mod's. at all. Now I just need the freaking snow and salt off the roads, should be good to go around May.....:mad:

I don't think so, because the carbs actuate by engine vaccuum, they wouldn't compensate for the "forced-air". But I'm not sure either.

I was thinking that in order for it to work right, the carbs would have be set pretty rich at idle, so that the AF mix was right at speed (when the ram air was working). I may fab one up and see what I get. If I do, I'll post pics of the process.