My260Rocks

last night when i posted the search wasnt working. Im trying to stiffin the car up more, while also trying to support these 30 year old strut towers. I'll try a search again, thx.

Does anyone have any idea where I can find one (for less then $200) or has experience in fabricating one? I'm more interested in the fabrication. -Patrick

well, thats reassuring. Im hoping that if the CI is good, then the CII will be better. :classic:

I figured out what the clutch collar was... i had never seen one seperated from the throw out bearing. I'd always had a good one on hand (heres to recycled parts...the cardinal sin) i just bought the Centerforce II clutch, its got a warranty, and I got some recommendations from my vette buddies that its a good brand... if i have bad luck with it, i will broadcast. -patrick

but, I dont know with what. Im not looking to spend $500 on a bad-@ss race clutch, but I do want upgraded grab over the stock old-technology unit. I autoX the Z about 3-4 times a year. My 260 has slightly upgraded torque and hp, but nothing to go braggin home to your girlfriend about. So, any brand suggestions? I was looking at the CluthMaster FX100, the Centerforce I, II, and dual clutch. Suggestions? Thanks! -Patrick Davies BTW the Dual Clutch requires a 280Z clutch collar, what the heck is a clutch collar??

right, the 1st stage of the 2 stage system (which is the traditional system) is the dull color base coat. When you spray it, it goes on like a colorful primer coat. The 2nd stage is the clear coat. Its the 'gloss' it adds the shine and depth. Multipul layers of clear can add some really nice depth to a job. Great for a show car. Single stage paint... is like it sounds. One stage. Paint the color and it drys shiney. This is good, when you add multiple layers, b/c you can wet sand out scratches, as long as they dont go through the paint. I would recommend, for a daily driver with a lot miles on gravel roads to go the single stage way. Its far easier to fix scratches and fading. (Just wet sand, polish, and wax) Its also easier to repair major scratches b/c you can just wet sand the area effected, shoot another coat, sand and polish (assuming your color matches). I used PPG for both single and 2stage paints. They are consistenly great paints and you can get very easy to understand mix charts to make sure you paint correctly. -Patrick

Just do what the off-road guys do. Rhinoline that biotch. If that doesnt seal the bottom... nothing will -Patrick

very good to hear. My dad would have to be on crack to let me race his 240Z in anything other then a qualifier. He's so protective of his baby -patrick

wow, if i were the author of this post, id be so proud!

what year maxima?

Man, I read bad day, and I was thinking how Texas A&M Sports Car Club's autoX got rained out... thats not nearly as bad as your crash. Hope you can race again. -patrick

thanks laffeaux

I went to a local club last night and saw a 350Z parked... two words... bad arse. The car is so low and wide, every picture of it doesnt do it justice. The thing looks like its goin 100mph while parked. Just awesome, simply awesome.:classic:

What mods would I have to perform to the wiring? I have a new radio w/ the blue wire and I have a new antenna and the derned thing wont go up!

I've found that 1974(?) Suzuki GSR 750 Head Lights not only fit in a Z, but are brighter, have a well defined high/low beam, and make the car look extra snazzy. Its a direct plug in deal and its something I've never seen on any other Z but mine.

So Western Warehouse... Cavenders?? Those are as close to a saddle shop one can find in North Dallas:classic:

After a friend of mine killed my stock antenna, I decided to go to an automatic rise and fall. It plugged right in, but I cant get the auto rise and fall to work at all... Has anyone else had problems with installing an automatic antenna on their Z?

they should have never left the inline 6

i used ply wood to screw the speakers into, then i screwed the wood down to sheet metal and sealed it up with gasket maker. What I want to do is cut out the capret in the same size as the speaker then take it to some one who can sew a border, similar to the carpets border, around the hole.

i really dont know if its the same as the european bumper... It looks exactly the same as a stock 240Z bumper, only its all crome, with no holes for the rubber strip. I think I got my front bumper new for abt $200 dollars. (I went to a dealership where they gave great discounts for Z club of Texas members)

I've a 260, I lighten it by going to 240 bumpers, you could go to fiberglass/plastic bumbers too if your gonna repaint anytime soon BTW get the Competition Nissan Racing 240Z bumper. its cheaper and you dont mount all the rubber trim. Also the exhaust... headers and stainless steel exhaust with only one muffler and what else... you can redo your interior w/ cheap thin carpet too, but then your car will be louder... I think I covered everything with out going into too much overkill. I dunno if that helped much.

I've got some 6x9 pioneers mounted in the storage bin.. a problem is that the carpet that goes over the speakers dampens the sound, if you were to mount in the storage bin, you might consider customizing the carpet to free up the speakers.

Yea, I'll be back in Plano, TX later this month after college finals. I'll try to go to a Texas Z club event if they have any before my intership in late June

He and I are both members of the Texas A&M Sports Car Club... I wupped his arse in the 1/8 mile pulling off a 10.4 to his 10.6.. Hey, i know they're slow ET times, but not for the the L26. I also beat a first gen '72 V8 mustange, 3rd gen V8 firebird, 300ZX (3rd gen body), and a Miata on 600psi of NoS. So I had some bragging smack I had to deal out.

From the mind of yours truly... http://www.utscripts.net/z28/funny.htm ROFL ROFL