Diseazd

Chris.....No the block wasn't decked. I don't think a lot of people would even notice .030. It looks like you have the same .030 out that I'm talking about (just by sight). I've talked to people that say it's no problem with 73 pistons and E88 or E31 heads. I've also talked to people including Dave Rebello who say you should have .060 clearance. You certainly don't have .060 clearance if you come out .030 and the gasket is .060 inches, but I don't see why .030 isn't enough, and many are running this set up including you with success. Anyone else out there running the 73 pistons(valve reliefs) with the early E88 or E31 heads?

Yes Chris.....the 73 pistons have valve reliefs.

I know you can use a thicker gasket or you can shave .030 off, but why is the 73 piston a different dimension? I can't find anything in any books stating that it is. A lot of people have noticed this but don't seem to know why there is a .030 difference in deck height........is it pin height different? Has anyone put these pistons in with without thicker gaskets or shaving the piston? Seems to me you'd pick up compression which is good, but is .025-.030 clearance enough? Most seem to think you need .060 clearance between the piston and head.......but is .030 good enough?

L24 73 fly-cut pistons on L24 rods come out of the block by .030 inch. Does anyone know why the 73 pistons do this......why are they different from the 70,71 and 72 flat-tops as far as deck clearance? Is it OK to install these pistons with the early L24 heads without shaving the pistons since with the .030 positive deck clearance and the .060 gasket crush only gives you a .030 inch clearance.

Tim....Make sure you triple check your exhaust clearance....especially with two people in the car.

Brian.....PM me you're phone number....may come over tomorrow. Mitchell.....How did the Rebello work come out. Waiting to hear about your build. I love the Z Doc.....he's quite the character and really knows his stuff.....love picking his brain, but Dave is supposed to be awesome. Guy

I'm still waiting to see your beast.....any body parts needed.....call the ZBARN.COM...... Roger has anything you need. Hurry up.....I want to run that Z in June!!! 1/4 mile Guy

Jon.....I think you're way over his head......this is his first Z......one baby step at a time!

Capt Mark...Congratulations on a good choice. The E88 head with the L28 block and flat tops will be a good combo! I ran into the same problem a couple years ago when I built my last L28. Call Riley Curtis at Lynchburg Nissan in Lynchburg,Virginia he'll know if they are available. He got me a set for my last build.......an F54 block.....040 over flat tops and a shaved and shimmed P79 head. A good combination....comparable to what you're building. Guy

Brian......I've got no idea what you're talking about. Post a picture......

Steve.......Pick a valve....any valve......turn the engine over where the lobe is straight up.......now with two open end wrenches, loosen the two locking nuts securing the pivot ball. I believe one is a 17 mm and one is a 14 or 15 mm open end wrench. Once you loosen the two lock nuts you can turn the pivot ball up or down to adjuct the clearance between the rocker and the heel of the cam lobe. You check by sliding a feeler gauge between the rocker and the heel of the cam lobe. Clearance should be .008 intake and .010 exhaust at cool temps. It ain't rocket science. Once you get the clearance right,you lock the two nuts together....but continue checking as you tighten them down because they change as you tighten them. Play around with it....you'll soon get the hang of it. Good luck.....looking forward to seeing your Z. Guy

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28368 Beautful job!!!!......Check out my friend Eiji's slide valve carbs in post #1. Eiji owns Datsun Spirit in Northern Virginia if you ever need any exotic Japanese Datsun parts, he's "The Man".

Eibachs are only going to lower you 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch......no problem.....do it!

zXatlast.......The special tool is a simple feeler gauge. If the bloke that had the head built had the work done at a reputable rebuilder, the rocker geometry (centering the wipe pattern) will have already been done. If not, you'll need to make sure that it is set up properly or you'll experience the same problem as above. Find out who did the work and if rocker geometry was set up. if it wasn't, you're in for a learning experience. Welcome to our fraternity! Guy

Super.....You"ve got a 240z collar (18 mm).........now when you get the 240Z pressure plate and disc (2 inch fingers), you should be able to bolt her up!

Hogie....Install the throw-out bearing and measure the distance from the top of the throw-out bearing to the top of the fingers. If you get 16-18mm, you've got a 240Z collar. Now if you've got a 240Z clutch, you should be good to go. I can't imagine MSA sending you the wrong collar if you told them 240Z. Those guys all know Z's inside and out. Guy

Welcome back OZ!

MSA has them......3 will probably be OK for the 3 or 4 days it takes to arrive.

Darrell.......Are you sure about that.......I think they're both the same. Guy

Nyuck,nyuck,nyuck!

Thanks for the info Mike and David. Looks encouraging! Guy

How can we contact them? Could you post some pictures?

Wow......Steve that is awesome...looks like a 4.2 Jag. Dave....bet that's one you'd like to do over!

Keep us informed. Guy

Is it me or is the center plug in the first picture missing an electrode? I always replace all basic ignition parts when you get a new Z........points,plugs,condensor,rotor and cap if the engine doesn't run perfect from day 1.