Diseazd

I've never used that particular clutch, but the guys at MSA know their Datsun stuff........that will fix your problem.

Good Luck Motorman7.......from what I've seen of your car, you should do well in stock class. Guy

You've got a bad clutch disc or pressure plate IMHO. If you've got any play between your slave cylinder rod and the clutch fork and it still slips, you've got a clutch problem. Replace the pressure plate and disc.....you can go back with the 240z stuff.....it'll be plenty of clutch for your L28. The only other thing it could be is a 280 collar used with a 240Z pressure plate. Did you use the 240z collar with the 240z clutch?

Jonathan......The Eibachs give you a smooth ride but "get down" a little better in the curves. Also, Eibachs lower the car anywhere from 1/2 to 1 inches. Tokico shocks are far superior to the original shock struts.......no comparison....and the ride is nice too. Regards. Guy

Mitch......I'm going back with a 4 speed.....Eiji gave me the tranny out of his white car. The 390 ought to be sweet.....let me know what you think of it. Carl......You bet I'm enjoying it ....... restoring a car with no rust or abuse is as it should be. I'm having a ball. Note the yellow A on the diff.....I left that alone.....I assume the Datsun folks put that on it because it was an automatic (3:54) ......right? Blue.....Thanks for the encouragement.......I can't wait to see how that new combo motor feels.....it ought to be sweet!

I've been busy this weekend......acid cleaned the inside of the tank, then sealed it with POR 15 Tank Sealer.....that stuff works great.....looks like new inside. Then, I cleaned up the outside and painted it. Also cleaned up the diff, installed side seals and new diff cover gasket......followed by fresh paint. Same with the other items in the pics. Everything is ready to go back in.

Roger that......l

What's the proper torque for that center bolt in the flange? Looks like the FSM calls for 13 to 18 foot lbs. .......is that correct?

......not only do you need a 240mm flywheel, but also a 2+2 clutch collar. I've never had any problems what so ever with a 240z clutch in either of my modified L28 engines.......I would suspect a used clutch or as Carl mentioned, oil on the disc. IMO

Ditto on jackpot! What other brave undertakings have you attempted in your life? Welcome.

The black insulator (bump stop). I just installed the R/T mount in my 5th Z today. You'll have to trim the bump stop to fit above the diff. I cut off about 3/4 inches with a hacksaw. They work flawlessly.

Zcar Source should have them. 623 581 9227

Thanks Chuck......will do!

Really? No one on this forum has ever put a side seal in an R180?

One of the side seals in my R180 diff are leaking. I've never replaced the side seal on a 180. I've replaced it on an R200 but not the 180. I assume you remove the bolt in the center of the flange and simply pull it out, but I don't like trial and error. The factory manual is not very helpful. Anyone help me with this? Thanks. Guy

That's correct Brian......I just used the crossmember taken from my early 72 automatic transmission (the one on the right) and it also works with the B type 4 speed that I'm replacing it with. The transmission mount insulator is also the same on either transmission....auto or manual..... "A" or "B" tranny.

IMHO, there's nothing wrong with the system as she stands. There's pretty much something for everyone as things stand. A stock class Z is beautiful, but anyone who grew up with Z's in the early 70's knows that the "cool" Z's didn't stay completely stock very long......at least in Atanta, and California and everywhere else for that matter. Wheels, spoilers, exhaust etc. only enhanced the mystique of the Datsun 240Z. Therefore, 6 to 8 mods should qualify an owner for the street modified class....the one with most of the entries. I don't know about past years, but last year (my first ZCON), it seems that Gold Madallion winners were limited to show cars that were modified to hide all the cad plated items that are so damned hard to get perfect. John, Todd, Fred and all the other judges at ZCON 2011.....you did a great job......you'll never please everyone......so continue your work. The best and most beautiful Z should win in each class......whether the owner did all the work or not. No one is an expert at every phase of restoration......"Trailer Queens" will (and should) continue to take first place.

I finally got the front suspension back in. New Eibachs, Tokico HP's, new ball joints, tie rod ends, all new bushings, brake lines, pads, rotors, clips etc. etc. Came out nice. Now to the rear suspension, diff, gas tank etc. etc.

:stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid:

I agree with Cbuczesk and Zcars........your pushrod is too long. You need to readjust to a shorter length.......your master cylinder is holding your pads against your rotors at all times. This in turn heats the rotors and expands the calipers causing your brakes to finally lock up. Be careful....it can get so hot that it warps your rotors. IMO

They are the same manufacturer that did Nissan's restoration program. Once again....only the very,very best for Mike.

I don't know how many forum members use Banzai Motorworks, but the products that Mike Mcginnis sells are unavailabe almost anywhere else. Not only that, Mike's prices are cheaper than other sources on most items because other sources actually buy from Mike and mark 'em up! Mike knows Z's in and out.......and we need to keep companies like Mike's in business. You do have to send a check before he ships, but that's a small price to pay to have access to hard to find parts.......where else are you going to find a blank ID plate, an early master vac sticker, and many, many more stickers and items that make Z restoration a lot easier?

Cleaned up under the two front wheel wells and got my son (Five and Dime) to shoot 918 orange. It came out beautiful. Also....before and after to strut restoration.....new Eibachs, Tokico HP's, new rotors, brake lines and brake line clips.

Clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder......might as well throw in the short slave cylinder hose.

You may have enough metal to get the pistons in, but the remaining walls wouldn't have enough metal to avoid flex. Did the engine run? Did you buy it with this combo? If so, did it run and if so, how good? In my experience with Z's, I've never known anyone who put L28 pistons in a 240Z block. In the old "How to Modify" book, .080 inches was the maximum over bore recommended.