Diseazd

Thanks for the help....I'll try to post pics of the install. We're also installing Willwood disc brakes F and R. Guy

My three Z's are from Texas, Arizona and a car warehoused and not driven since 79 from Virginia.

Jon....Thanks for your reply....I've got the same camber plate as the red car in your thread. I must say I like it mounted on top better. How would you suggest that I reinforce the shock tower if I choose to mount this way. Also, you wouldn't happen to know of a thread that takes you through step by step on cutting,welding etc.(I like to measure twice and cut once). You mention welding a perch onto the strut, however G/C provided only the threaded sleeve and the adjustable perch,and top hat......am I missing something? Last of all, now that I've made the investment,do you think coilovers are worth the bucks? Thanks for your help....Guy

Adam's right.....I got a 73 dogleg for my 71 resto and it was zinc coated....all parts removed from the 71 were plain metal....the best rust proofing for a Z was growing up in Arizona. The wheel well seams are the most vulnerable rust areas for the Z's. When you attach the outter fender to the inner wheel well, seal the seam good. This prevents water from getting trapped and also running down into the dogleg.

First of all I need to know what pattern and dimensions to cut the shock towers for installation of the camber caster plates......next,they say to leave 5" front and 7" rear on the shock strut from lower bracket to the spring perch, but there is a section to be rewelded above.....how do you determine the length of that portion of the shock strut? Last of all, when you're installing the camber caster plates, do you use any portion of the stock mount, or just the top spring seat supplied by G/C?

Anyone know of a good website on installation of G/C coilovers on the 240Z? The instructions provided by G/C are a little lacking in detail.

Unbelievable! Now you know why Carl says pay up for a rust free car.......restoring an early Z is Plano expensive. Great job so far.

I've never seen a spacer in any of the 10 Z's I've owned.....on the early Z's, the factory did some different mods. By the way your restos are really done right. Great job!!!!

Most chain tensioners don't come with gaskets any more......the machined surfaces seal themselves even w/o sealant.

What you have will work........but on the timing chain it should be mark to mark.

Why are you doing this? Most people go the other way to get rid of the driveshaft angles ( gets rid of the rear end vibration ).

Try Isky Cams. They do excellent work with fast turnaround. www.iskycams.com

I believe that they recommend 79-81 280zx master cylinder.....I just ordered 2 from (believe it or not) REDAT. Nissan no longer offers it and you want to make sure you get one made in Japan(Napco or Tokico). 15/16 is what you're looking for I think.

Not sure although my guess is yes......will find out and let you know.....How's you're paint coming Brian?

Ditto Arne on the 205-55-16's.......205-50-16 will also work but are a smidjet short.....225-50-16 will work and look great, but you may or may not have slight rubbing in certain instances.

Coming soon.....Just saw her today....Chuck finished the dog-leg and is getting ready to start block sanding.....some big changes will be coming soon!

Steve.....Thanks for all of your kind words.......Bruce gets credit for this resto.....wait till you see the 71......it'll blow you away....I'll take credit for that one.

You're hooked!!!!

To remove gunk and stain from my fuel rails, I submersed in pure Muriatic acid ($8.00 per gallon) for 3 minutes, then washed thoroughly in hot soapy water....blow out the rails with air. 35 years of crud disappeared immediately!! I used this procedure on all the plated parts. When they came back from the plate shop they looked like brand new. Whatever you do, don't use steel wool or sand-paper as it will screw up the plate work. Great job. Guy

Thanks Rich.....I'm restoring a Safari Gold 71 also......If done right, it's a beautiful color.......wheels and lowering really set it off! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643

Dan......I've bought 4 packs from Aiji and they are beautiful.....I don't know if the numbers on the heads are correct, but you can e mail him to see. I do know that they are Nissan. Here's my latest build http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31001using his stuff. Guy

Rich.......Contact Aiji at datsunspirit.com, he will sell you all new original cad plated bolts (front cover,thermostat,valve cover, exhaust studs, bolts and fat washers, oil pan bolts etc.). The kit has everything packaged and marked. If I remember it was $135.00 including freight. Aiji is a great guy to work with and loves the L series motors. Guy

Just ordered Wilwood front and rear for my 72.........I've got Toyota 4x4 for the front of the 71. I'll comment on the Wilwoods after installation. Details for front and rear and instructions for installation are at www.arizonazcar.com.

Looks great!.......please post better pics.

Chris......You must have had to relearn everything automotive.....2 clutches on one flywheel....I'd love to see the manual on that set-up! The amazing thing is that it's got enough torque to outpull a Cat D-9 but nothing breaks. What an amazing piece of computorized engineering!!!! Guy