Diseazd

I'm building a new engine. I'll use the L28 N42 block bored .040 over with an L24 crank and rods, L28 P79 flat-top pistons and a high quench P79 head shaved and shimmed .080 inches (should be 9.2 to 1 C/R). What this will be is a very over-bored L24 because I really like the higher revving L24's and bigger is always better.....right? Anyone build this motor before or heard of anyone else building it? I'll update as I build on.

Good choice on the 205 55 16s. I think that's the perfect choice for the street Z!

AJM.......I'll check with Chuck and let you know. Safari Gold is really growing on me....can't wait to put the new Panasports and front BRE spoiler on. You're right Brandon.....I can feel it now!

Thanks Blue......that's just what I was looking for! Anyone know where to get a set- up like the one used to hook up to the brake booster port.........like the step down in Blue's post? The booster port is too big of a diameter for the hose on my vacuum gauge. Guy

Can anyone confirm what the proper vacuum reading should be on a carbureted L28 at idle? Thanks Guy

Why don't you just call ZCARSOURCE or ZBARN and get the right pedal.......then just bolt it in and hook it up to your new master cylinder.

Update........I found them at Ace Hardware........4-40 x 3/4.........E, you were close. Thanks for everyone's input. By the way.....they were 79 cents for 5 stainless machine screws. Guy

Thanks everyone.......I'll report back when I find some! Guy

Thanks E........I'll check that out. Guy

I'm replacing the lens covers on the front large blinker lights of my 71 Z. Several of the screws have been broken trying to get them out. Anyone know where I might pick up a dozen or so of these screws? Thanks for your help. Guy

Come clean Brian. You really don't own a Z.......do you?

And remember.....never add fresh water to a overheated engine, the drastic change in cooling will really warp an engine, and when you add water to a warm engine, start it before adding water or coolant. I warped the valves on a 52 Jeep adding cold water to a hot engine and it was running when I added it!

Keith.....How many pair are needed to get the price down to $100.00 a pair? I'll take one pair at $150.00 if that helps get the ball rolling. Anyone else? If the next batch is cheaper, I'll take more. Guy

I can't wait till he buffs it out!!

Rich......You have to be patient with Chuck, but he's worth the wait. I can"t wait either........wish you were on the East Coast. Your work is awesome.......I believe we think a lot alike! We'll post 'em as soon as we can. Guy

Chuck finally started painting today! These were taken with a cell phone......will get Brandon to update with a real camera soon!

I recently got new Datsun door clips. Can't remember from who.....probably MSA.

Willwoods require a little grinding on the front control arms for clearance. They have thick rotors also.

Greg......We went to Summit Point the weekend before last. The Z's finished 1st ,2nd and 3rd. There were only 3 racing! Are you going to ZCON? Guy

Brian......I love the color......forget flat black......keep it pea green! Guy

Sorry Bruce.......I"ve only received the door seals, but they are awesome! I always look for the best quality and fit.......price is secondary. The Vintage Rubber is worth the extra money if they are more expensive. Guy

www.vintagerubber.com

Over the years, some have been pop riveted. If so, just drill them out. When going back together, order the plastic rivets from MSA and reinstall with those.

The Tidewater Z Car Club is having their annual Z Odyssey Show on Saturday May 14th at Pomoco Nissan;1134 Mercury Blvd; Hampton, Virginia. This is always an outstanding show with a lot of early cars as well as an array of later cars throughout the models. Registration is 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon. Contact Todd Wagner at 757-851-8098 or email zfixers@cox.net for info..... $25.00 in advance or $30.00 at the gate.....rain or shine.

Steve....I'm running the P79 shaved .080 and towers shimmed .080 on 2 of my Z's with the F54 block. I'm also running SU's with the early intakes. No problem on the fuel injection notches. I'm also running the early stock exhaust manifold and gasket.......again....no problem. We took a household dremel and opened up the exhaust manifold a little to match the ports. We run the Isky Stage III cams in both engines. They run awesome with no detonation problem what-so-ever! Here's a thread that may help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34448