Nissanman

I believe the whole setup is FREE when you buy a 2007 Yamaha YZFR1 motorcycleLOLLOL http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/Galleries_IndividualPhoto.aspx?Gallery=870&Main=11&Sub=19&Image=25833&PostBack=1&Media=1

It's amazing what a little piece of tubing with a flare on it can do:classic: Now all you need to do is fit some variable length trumpets which change the horn length for different rev ranges:rolleyes:

Possibly the only changes you will need to do will be the oil pressure sender and the coolant temperature sender.

I may be wrong, but I don't think you need a harness. Unless the one in the car has been damaged or butchered, [no reason to suspect this] all you need should already be there. The hazard flasher proves that the wiring and power is sweet in that respect. The turn signals however use a different relay. Each relay is a 2 pin device. Hazard relay wires are GW [Green/White] and BL [black/Yellow], turn signal relay wires are W [White] and G [Green]. I think:nervous::nervous: The relay or the indicator switch gear may be the problem. Switch the hazards on and trace where the relay sound is, the turn signal relay is probably close by it. It might be as simple as a harness plug not fully inserted. If you have some electrical knowledge and a decent Multimeter, should be relatively easy to find and fix. Factory instruments on the Z's are electrical. If they are all intact and we make the assumption that they are indeed operable, it will only be the engine senders that are the problem. If you determine a problem with the harness, simply run new wire as mentioned above. You will need the correct tools though and a decent wiring schematic applicable to the vehicle. I have the Haynes Manual and the schematics are absolutely AWFULL to read. I could scan it and eMail it for you if you are really desperate:rolleyes:

I wouldn't have thought that it would need very much done on it to get all that stuff working again. You are probably only needing to deal with an incompatibility issue with the engine gauge senders and the existing wiring harness connectors and gauge characteristics. For the gauges, maybe it would be more desireable to fit mechanical replacements. I personally prefer mechanical gauges to electrical anyday. If you wish to retain the existing electrical gauges you may need to retro fit the senders that were designed for the original 280Z engine, i.e. non-EFI stuff. That is not a big deal. Providing the wiring is still intact, once the senders are replaced all should be well. As for the indicators, you will just have to do some fault finding of the system. Do a methodical check of the entire system, power, relay, wiring connectors, column switch etc. There is a member on this Forum who re-furbishes the stalk switchgear if that is found to be cactus. Bottom line: I wouldn't let the faults you listed get in the way of a good deal. My '73 240Z had an L28 EFI engine fitted to it when I bought it [with twin Hitachi/SU carbs] and it went like a scalded feline, auto trans and all:devious:

You don't mention about the battery. Has it also sat for a year or is it fresh and fully charged? It should be fresh if you are attempting to start a fully rested Z:eek: If it hasn't been regularly trickle charged a replacement is more than likely required.

A good choice is the white lube as mentioned, official description is "PH" grease. Castrol PH: - "A white zinc oxide grease to NLGI#3 consistancy providing scuff protection for auto body hardware including door catches, boot mechanisms and bonnet control mechanisms, gear shift controls and drum brakes." No smell and very sticky. I also use this stuff behind door catches and hinges. It allows you to slide the hardware around to achieve ideal door gap alignment without scratching that fresh paint job. Any excess that squeezes out can be easily wiped off with a rag or degreaser wash later on.

I use oxy-acet with a Henrob torch. The manufacturers claim that you can weld up a coke can after cutting it in 1/2 with a carving knife. I've never needed to repair a coke can but I can now weld, with satisfactory strength and appearance, all of the repairs I have needed to do to my Z and Roadster. The bonus with a gas welder in my opinion, is the ability to go back over a weld, reheat and thus correct a problem, then move on to complete the job. Try doing that with an electric welder:devious: I did try my hand at a MIG once, talk about an exercise in bird droppings:rolleyes: Went back to the gas.

Me and my prototytpe FJ20 conversion to my P510 back in April 2004. I haven't changed much since then:nervous:

Sounds like the tacho. has a mechanical attitude. A clean up and movement check may fix that. Oil pressure problem is more likely a worn out sender. [A way to prove that is to run a mechanical gauge teed into the oil gallery with the electrical gauge still fitted and watch the behaviour of both.] If you wish to retain the original gauge, you may well need a new sender. Just make sure that the wiring connections are tight and reliable.

A nasty fault but...... I am reasonably sure that you could unwrap the damaged wiring harness yourself. Once it is exposed and you can extract the burned wire. You may find the damage is largely limited to the actual wire that fried:nervous: Then it is just a matter of replacing it. Check the integrity of all the other wires by doing a visual. Unless they were actually handling excessive current, they may just be stuck to the main offender. Probably a good time to add some more current protection in the wiring for the lighter:tapemouth:tapemouth If your quote is $1500, what have you got to lose by investigating the loom for damage yourself:devious:

I am using the Haynes Manual, circuit diagram for USA model S30, on pages 168 and 169. The BRAKE IN, which I think is the fluid level or pressure fail lead is YL, connects to the HANDBRAKE SW lead, also YL, and t's off to the speedometer binacle as a YL lead. This is the earthy side of the warning lamp circuit. The warning lamp is in the speedo binacle. The supply side of the warning lamp is an RL lead. This lead also supplies the +ve to the tachometer and mysteriously becomes a G lead. This G lead ultimately gets back to the fuse block, specifically the 20A IG fuse. So, that is the power source:devious: Actual wire colours may differ but that is how it works:surprised My guess is that you may have put a hole in the supply lead somehow when you fitted your new tachometer:nervous::nervous:

Something is LOOSE:tapemouth Assuming your new steering gear is all tight and wheels are aligned, methinks you may have some sort of driveline balance or looseness problem. Either get it up on jackstands or better yet a hoist, and check every item for looseness and or damage. Diff mounts, tailshaft bolts, gearbox mounts etc. Check your front rotors, hubs, callipers as well. Check everything:nervous::nervous: Night time, well, there are few gamma rays around at night so that would explain thatLOL

....and the rears are on the alloy slave cylinder at the bottom of the backing plate. If you are going to bleed the whole system, you start at the wheel furthest from the pedal, then work your way back to the wheel closest to the pedal. For LHD that means rear right, rear left, front right then front left. Consider doing a complete flush of the system to remove any gunge and give everything fresh fluid to work with.

That sounds a bit strange. It has been a long time since I fiddled with Z SU/Hitachi carbs. but my SP310 Roadster has brass fittings in the fuel bowl. Once I got them out I was able to grit blast the innards of the bowl and remove all the nasty corroded alloy and sediment. If you do indeed have steel drain plugs, perhaps a prolonged bath of WD-40 or similar will enable you to loosen them up. If the threads are trashed perhaps they can be bored out and re-threaded for a larger plug, BRASS this time:devious:

Just clean up the crank pulley notch and paint it with a drop of white paint. That will make it show up a lot better when using a timing light. Those hi-tension posts sound like they are trashed, try for a genuine replacement cap, that may have brass terminals.

I doubt that the pulley has lost it's timing marks, do you mean the pointer that attaches to the front cover? There is another thread covering the timing marks for non-A/C and A/C crank pulleys. [The notch in the crank pulley is only helpful if there is a reference pointer on the engine front cover.] However, removing and replacing the distributor cap can be done without disturbing the ignition timing i.e. it will be the same after the exercise as before. What you do need to be careful with, is the lead connections to the new cap. They must not get changed in firing order. The L6 engine has a 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 firing order. So once you get your new cap, orient it correctly to the distributor body [it goes on only one way] and swap the leads over, one by one, and fit them in the same order to the new cap. If it is the original cap from 1978, I would complain to Nissan about their poor quality partsROFLROFLROFL Picture is here: - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18774&d=1183956284

If #2 is indeed sparking more than it should, it may be due to crossfire from other cylinders. Confirm your "disorder" with a timing light connected to #2 lead. If it has too many sparks remove the lead from the distributor cap. Plug the timing light into the distributor cap and see if it repeats the weird firing. If it does then the cap is crossfiring. It may have cracked and/or formed a carbon track inside. Maybe time for a new one:surprised

First up, slacken off the alternator and other belt tensioners and remove the drive belt. Then give everything that rotates the "finger tip test". Gently wobble spin and otherwise tickle all the roundy round bits and see if you can detect any lumpyness in their operation. Often a dose of WD40/CRC5-56 into idler pulleys will shut them up...temporarily. At least that will determine the offending article. If you don't know the age of the water pump, it is probably time to renew it anyway. Do the thermostat as well. Cheap insurance, especially if you then refill the system with a good coolant mix. I personally recommend "Nissan Long Life Coolant". Quite cheap and you guessed it, formulated for Nissan engines. Why is this thread so wiiiiiiiiide?

Try and be a little more specific. What bushings do you want to replace, what workshop facilities do you have access to, etc. The project you describe is not difficult, I just need a few more details to help you. Polyurethane bushings are often referred to as "squeakathane" here in Oz, but I personally haven't got any complaints about their performance or noise:devious: It appears that you have inadvertantly posted this topic twice, twice:classic:

Yes, that was my thrust, aftermarket. I wouldn't even try to get a genuine part. Either way, I've had a few apart [can't resist the challange] and usually they are absolutely trashed inside. Frog hair?? I dare not ask from which part of the anatomyROFLROFL

.....and VEGEMITELOLLOLLOL

This is a duplicate thread, the other one is here: - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27881"

I like that, sounds painful, but I really like that:classic: Try unplugging all the lights, lamps, globes sequentially to verify where your fault may be. If indeed you combo switch is "discombobulated", the fault may very well still be there with the load disconnected. Oh, while you are trouble shooting, replace the fuse with a 12V globe. Use a couple of flying leads to hitch it to the fuse contacts. That way the globe will glow while the fault condition is present and you won't be trashing a heap of fuses in the meantime:) [The globe will prevent the short from burning any wiring]

Yes, you can connect 12V directly to the pump either via a pair of leads straight from the battery [use an inline fuse just in case], or you can simply connect a fresh 9V transistor battery to the motor wires/pins. If the pump is serviceable the 9V battery will still fire it up:classic: Bear in mind they are not a very sophisticted pump, and the motor wouldn't even be slot car standard:rolleyes: If it fails to pump, replace it. Don't even consider trying to repair it, they just aren't worth the effort:ermm: