WingZr0

Thyanx Blake! Thats exactly what it feels like too, the #2 bushing out of sinc. I'll get the ordering from MSA in the morning. Also the handle has play in it on the up and down axis about an inch, I assume thats normal though. Thanks again for the diagrham ~Z~

Heres the deal, Since about 4 days ago I noticed my the shifter wouldn't go into 1st gear some times after stopping at a red light. It felt like there was a "bolt" or "linkage" that was coming lose causing the shifter to get stuck, or locked like in a kink, making me have to pull back into Nuetral or 2nd gear to "realign" what ever was not right to get into 1st gear. After doing this for a few days the shifter always went into gear on the 2nd try when ever it happend. i.e. going from nuetral or 2nd then back into 1st Today the Problem is getting worse. I drove up to Maapco to order a new fuel filter for tommorow and came to another red light and the shifter would not go into 1st again. At first I thought no big deal and went back to Nuetral and still couldn't get into 1st agian. Tryied it again no luck, then tried to go into 2nd gear and shifter would not go in 2nd ! I went back to Nuetral, shook the stick around and was able to get into 1st gear and get her going. Got back home turned the engine off and tried all the gears. 1st was still haveing some issues and also Reverse was showing the same problems. 3rd and 4th seem OK.... for now. Question being is there a Bolt thats coming loose or a shifter linkage or something that needs to be tightend up in the shifter? I orderd a new inner shift boot on Ebay and would like to fix my Shifter issues in a one day shot if possible. Also would a dry left hand side Rack Bushing be responsible for a loose steering feel? Right side Rack Busing is coverd in oil and seems fine, Left side is dry with no visible oil and bagan to squeek today and squeeking sounds come when I turn the wheel left and also when driving in a straight line I can hear more little squeeks. I found the Steering Wheel has to go from top dead center to about 20 degrees left or right befor the front wheels start to turn. Thyanx for any replies, Tommorow is my only day off work and I'm tryng to knock as many related problems out with RUBY as I can in one day ~Z~

One guy I knowjhust told me he sold his way back when for fear of crashing his. He used to live out in farm country and did a hundred everynight to work :eek: :hurt: :rambo:

Let me get the paper that throws down the Parts and Labor list. Some of this stuff is kinda Pricey... :mad:

Thought that looked off, Thats what I get for cuting and pasting Anytime Bro. Glad to help

Here goes a thread to get an idea of whose's running what :rambo: Click this link for the Let's see some wheels! thread as started by member veritech-z, another Cool Cat ~Z~

As far as I know 4x4.113 is stock lug nut/bolt pattern on all 1969 through 1978 S30 Z's. The back spacing you need to clear the brakes and such is 4 inches and the Off Set after that point can what ever you like at that point as long as you have 4 inches of back space clearance. Alot of guys here are running different tire sizes to suit their needs, for example Track use and profile style and such so It'st best to use the Search Function on "Tire Sizes" or "Tire Size" to get a better idea on what the numbers on the side of you tires mean. This part of the subject is a pretty lengthy explanation so to speak but VERY VERY Helpful I may be wrong on a something here but thats what I understand myself so far. ~Z~

Thyanx all for the replies In the mean time I did get my Rally Calender Clock working and installed :rambo: I'll Snap some photos in the morning once I put the center consel plate back in and lined up right, It jus got plain to HOT outside today I"ll go Shade Tree Mechanic this weekend and hopefully I'll get Ruby back in Tip Shape by Lady Hunting... I mean, ahhhhhh, Cruise Night ~Z~

Ouch :eek: Thyanx all for the replies, needed that I thought it was part of the Rear Diff or a Trans Gear. I'll check that Oil Problem with those suggestions this weekend when I try and solve that "Piston Head clearence" problem by checking my Lash Valves, Rings and Valve Stems as suggested by members in another thread to see if thats causing my "truckish, rattleling" noise Hopefully I'll get Ruby back in Tip Shape by Lady Hunting... I mean, ahhhhhh, Cruise Night ~Z~

Thyanx Vic How you been? What is it supposed to do exactly? I know the Oil pump was replaced and the Oil meter guage doesn't read correct becouse of it. The meter hovers at around 0 to 6lbs and I'm looking for the sensor for that why I'm at it to make sure it's connect right.

I found this in my trunk. I was wondering exactly what it is. It has 20 teeth on it and I'm assuming it was switched out for something better or stock as parts of the car was already rebuilt or "refurbised" so to speak when I bought my 1977 280Z 4 speed. I also found an Oil pump and an AFM Meter along with a winsheild removal tool set still in the package under the driver seat :tapemouth ~Z~

HLS30 360104 10/76 1977 280z A.K.A. Ruby ~Z~

What? I made 2 thread post? If you mean the SHORT THROW thread I thought we all abbandoned that one for Hijacking the subjact. If you mean something else Bro please let me know ~Z~

Goinng to pick up car now. Be Right Back :ninja:

I'm not sure, This is jus what the guy told me over the phone jus now. I figure I can Save a butt load of money if I did the work myself and bought the parts off Ebay and MSA. When I pull the head off taday If there is a clearence issue to start with I'll add a thicker gasket seal after cleaning off the Pistons and see whats going on with those Rings and Valve Seals. Mech said that 1976 1977 280Z's N42 Block came with Flat top Pistons and that the N47 has what I believe he said are "Dished Combustrion Chambers" from 1979 and up Z's. I may be misqouting him on that though. That and the Fuel pump and Crack in Air cleaner boot ain't helping. I do seem to smell Burning oil once in awhile but theres no smoke coming out the Tailpipe when driving. But there is a little white puff of smoke on start up which I assume is normal is it not?

I just droped Ruby, my 1977 280Z, off at a mechanic who specialize in Z cars here in town for a dianostic. Well the problem is Ruby has been running kind of truck'ish lately and the Mechanic (mech) has found 5 things wrong. 1) The engine Block is a N42 and the Head is a N47. He said the pistions have built up carbon the tops and are now hitting the bottom of the N47 Head. My main and most important question is What kind of head gasket thinkness do I need to buy to get the proper clearance and were can I buy one at. A place like Nappa Auto Supply maybe? So to I can either get a thicker head Gasket to fix the clearance issue or buy the correct Head which I believe is a N42 or pay about $600.00 to have head work done on the N47 to make it compatible with the N42 Block. Any help on this issue first would be appreaciated. Well Just FYI the other 3 problems are 2 Crack in the Air Cleaner boot letting in "Unmetterd Air" ($80.00) 3 After market Fuel Pump running at 6lbs below preasure at it's maximum setting causing it to run lean on gas. So that has to be changed ($400.00) 4 Modified Throttle Switch "turned all the way to one side and bent to cover up the othe problems". I suppose to max out the fuel output (unqouted price) 5 Clogged #6 Fuel injector. Mech said if the fuel pump is replaced the raise in preasure might be enough to ungled the injector. Thyanx for any help at all as I don't won't to leave it at the Mech jus yet ~Z~

I just droped Ruby, my 1977 280Z, off at a mechanic who specialize in Z cars here in town for a dianostic. Well the problem is Ruby has been running kind of truck'ish lately and the Mechanic (mech) has found 5 things wrong. 1) The engine Block is a N42 and the Head is a N47. He said the pistions have built up carbon on the tops and are now hitting the bottom of the N47 Head. My main and most important question is What kind of head gasket thinkness do I need to buy to get the proper clearance and were can I buy one at. A place like Nappa Auto Supply maybe? So to I can either get a thicker head Gasket to fix the clearance issue or buy the correct Head which I believe is a N42 or pay about $600.00 to have head work done on the N47 to make it compatible with the N42 Block. Any help on this issue first would be appreaciated. Well Just FYI the other 3 problems are 2 Crack in the Air Cleaner boot letting in "Unmetterd Air" ($80.00) 3 After market Fuel Pump running at 6lbs below preasure even at it's maximum setting causing it to run lean on gas. So that has to be changed ($400.00) 4 Modified Throttle Switch "turned all the way to one side and bent supposedly to cover up the other problems". I suppose to max out the fuel output (unqouted price) 5 Clogged #6 Fuel injector. Mech said if the fuel pump is replaced the raise in preasure might be enough to ungled the injector. Thyanx for any help at all as I don't won't to leave it at the Mech jus yet ~Z~

My bad as well ' Thanks for the answers, got what I was looking for. Peach out ~Z~

HEY I used to have one of those when I was a kid but it was of the Dukes of Hazzred General Lee Dodge Charger It was pretty Sic and had some kind of motorized feature but never worked so the wheels locked and had to press down on the carpet to get the wheels to turn making clicking sounds. Same desing style as these Z's with the cartoon look. Mayber theres other cars out there... like Knight Rider's Kitt or Karr :mad:

Makes sense cause those body lines line up like garbage in a bag :tapemouth :dead: :sick:

I jus cought wind of this on Ebay and thought it looked cool, but at the same time, Jacked UP. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-260Z-280Z-3-pc-Rear-Spoiler-old-school_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33638QQihZ005QQitemZ150143042269QQrdZ1

Point taken and noted The only thing Blasphemous is not getting the most Horse Power :laugh: :rambo:

Maybe E31 head down the way also

Makes since :rambo: Not sure what you mean by more fun with a stock cam than a 4 speed I Think I'm missing something... Ruby's got an N42 block with N47 head with R200 diff which I believe is a stock ratio. Not sure what pistions I have (Flat tops or dished) cause the engine was rebuilt 2 PO's ago. Thinking of going with MSA camshaft part #10-2006 partly because it says Competition Only . Lift .620/.624 Intake/Exhaust with 304/318 Duration Power from 4500-8500 RPM Or maybe one of these other two cams. Part #10-2004 .495 Intake/Exhaust with 290 Duration.Describe as having rough idle. Midrange and top end power for well setup car. Drag or track racing. Part #10-2005 Lift .560 Intake/Exhaust with 300 Duration. Excellent road race power from 4,000-8,500 RPM OK so maybe part #10-2003 is more realistic. .460 Intake/Exhaust with 270/280 Duration. Rougher idle, excdellent performance. Pulls hard from 3,000 to 6,500 RPM :rambo: I don't know, what sounds good to you guys? ~Z~

Hey, you can't blame the brother