zKars

Hey gang, just ordered and now installed a complete set of Precision weatherstrip on a 71 S30 purchased from MSA (the weatherstrip, not the car, sorry...) The door weatherstrip was the big surprise. They seem to have gotten it right finally, the doors close exactly the same as they did with the old stock weatherstrip. No slam, no protruding doors, no drama. Just a decent fit. The bulb size is equivalent to the Kia weather strip, in fact, the precision strip is a U, not a closed circle like the Kia strip, so is more flexible, and more like the stock cross section. Might have to go back to ordering this stuff instead of the KIA part again.

The connectors are crazy things that resemble a 1/4" female spade connectors that have an extra flap that slips over and locks on the tab. There is a thread around here somewhere that discusses this and rubber cap replacements. I just solder wires directly to the terminals and never worry about bad connections anymore. Soldering is a bit tricky, clean to bare steel, flux, hot iron, do it fast, maybe even use a silver bearing solder. Get a blob on the terminal, then melt a pre-tinned wire into the blob, again, fast and hot. aha! I remembered where I saw them. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html Go down to the "special 1P" connectors on that page

Nissan designed this thing just as it is for the purpose and market in which it was sold. They are not trying to slip a POS killer car past anybody. When the car costs $10, you get what you get. We and the article publisher can argue all day long about what minimum global safety standards should be, but in that market, to get a car that locals can afford, this is the outcome. I hate it too, but its the reality.

Slight caution here. I purchased a set of metric mini bits locally at KMS tools, came in an identical but orange case as granny's blue ones. According to my caliper, they are all about .03-.05mm smaller diameter than the advertised size on the box.... Maybe its my caliper, but it also was "confirmed" by comparing to a set of brand new 160 main jets that the 1.6 mm bit went right into with a quite a sloppy fit.... I guess the point here is, if your trying various jets in a tuning session, confirm the change in size from set to set via comparison to a known standard, don't think that going from a factory 160 to a you-drill 150 will actually be taking you down by .1 mm. You may be surprised at the result.

Trying to resist the urge to say something about your successful four foot erection... nope, can't do it....

SurreyStroop, I posted the dimensions and pictures of the snowflake center caps back in the 510Realm thread where this started so you can be sure to get the right ones, whereever you find them. Good luck in the search. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=27981&p=243529#p243529

Mark: Isn't the remote restoration process fun? It will be worth in the end I promise. Sorting out the details and the associated pain are temporary. If you do find a 5 speed in Ontario, leave that 4 speed out there. Pick up one from me on the way through. My wife will thank you. You can have it for 1500 micro-dollars (15 cents). Heck I'll pay you 15 cents to take it away.

Fantastic trip! Best tool other than a cell phone is a great road side protection and towing package and a relaxed route plan that removes all the stress of having to spend a day or two getting something fixed. That way you can just roll with the punches and keep having a good time. Enjoy the drive!

Casey, thanks for not cluttering up that picture with any pretty wash girls. Just leave that wet zudzy stunning Z show off every inch of its perfection without any un-necessary distractions.

I have seen two distinct valve cover bolt designs. Early have an indented hex bolt with the 7, with a split lock and a flat washer trapped (SEMS) to the bolt, The tip is distinctly pointed as well. Later (sorry don't know the change over date) have no washers, but the bolt head has the flange, as you see in both. These bolts do have the indented head with the 7 as well. The tip is a self starting type, no threads for a couple of theads worth and tapered, but not pointy like the early ones. I do have some flange headed bolts that have a solid top, that appear to the same length, no SEMS washers, but no guarentee these were valve cover bolts. Might be front cover bolts.

2) Get a set of 14mm steering knuckles and use your 14mm ball joints. I promise not to tell anyone....

I'm betting something is loose, like the gland nut that holds the shock in the tube. I'd be checking that sort of easy stuff first. Many mention loose moutache bar nuts on the diff studs too. Crank down all the bolts you had out when you put the shocks and see what's shaking.

Sounds like a real mess. A stock wheel does sit in the "best" position for sure. Most aftermarket wheel adapters tend to move it toward the driver, although many such wheels have less dish to compensate. I wouldn't call stock 240 steering wheels in North America rare by any stretch, I just got one from a 73 yesterday from a friend and I have others. I'm in the middle of refinishing this one, but I can stop here and let you complete it your way. The rim is sanded and the spokes are sandblasted and primed. I can put the red stain I always use on it or not, your choice. Let me know what you're willing to spend on one (don't aim high) and I'll happily ship it out to you. I have the horn pad and everything, its in great shape. At least you have another option if you can't find one locally.

How many do you need? One I guess. drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll get one on the way. Send you one for the price of a stamp

I like making fun of google parts search results. When I look at the matches you get with SUS's link about I live the one quote from nissancheapparts.com www.nissanpartscheap.com/OEMParts/nissan-142/3/36541E4101.html We are a leading online supplier for 36541E4101. I bet you $50 bucks that don't have the part in stock and get even get one. Generic cut and paste crap meaningless statements. Do they honestly believe anyone who reads that actually believe what is said or that it lends them any credibility? Man, am I becoming a grumpy old man or what? oh yeah, and "I'm" the leading supplier of 36541-E4100, not them!

If you can't find one, I can send you a spare. Let me know at z240@shaw.ca

Tighten until they break then back off 1/4 turn. Seriously, 8mm bolts into aluminum, oh lets say, 15 ft-lbs should do it. Torque might be in the FSM, check out xenons30.com/reference, get the FSM for the 76 280z, look in the engine section. Oh well, after checking my self, the closest they had was the front cover bolts, and they only want 7-11 ft-lbs. Ok, then , just make them tight enoug so coolant doesn't leak out. There.

Sorry, I think you are confused about which hex items are the adjusters and the lock nuts. The 24mm hex at the base on the head surface are NOT something you undo. The 17mm lock nut is above that, and the 14mm hex that you rotate to adjust height, are on the top of the balls that seat in the end of the rocker arms. They are just hiding under the end of the rocker arms. Take a closer look, I see them in picture 4. As far as correct lash specs, using stock specs is perfectly safe. All your sacrificing (maybe) is some performance. Just make sure you have SOME lash and you can't hurt anything.

They are the same. Well, the 280 pedals are made with a thicker cross section rod, as some of the early ones actually bent and snapped with too much "spirited" use.

Subaru R180's have that flap on theie cover gaskets I've seen, but not a plate like that. Someone made that for sure! Maybe a spacer for specific diff placement?

The SU choke linkage not only lowers the jet tube to richen the mix, it also mechanically actuates the throttle linkage to increase idle speed. The interconnecting rod can be bent to adjust how much idle is added with how much choke lever actuation. It does take some time and twiddling (technical term, sorry I know...) to get these inter-related items all working together properly.

You're missing the flat plate that is referenced above in post #20 from zccjdm. It goes between the dizzy and the base mount. The plate mounts to the dizzy with a 5mm bolt up from the bottom, then the 6mm adjustment bolt goes down through the plate into the base hole. The base on the right in the pictures is the right one you need, you're just missing the intermediary plate. I have one if no one closer chimes in.

jalex Can you give me a link to one or two of the ebay ads you found? I'd be surprised if one them works as a direct mount for our blocks that also puts the pulley in the right position to mate to the damper pulley grooves. If they do exist I'd love to know the source. I've done four Gen II vintage air installs on Z's (ok, one 510) and always just made a bracket to mount it where it has to go. Vintage Air has a set of generic compressor mounting plates to use as a starting point. http://www.vintageair.com/2014catalog/Pages%20from%202014%20VintageAir%20Cat%20rev%208-15%2069.pdf part 151015, universal fabricators bracket. BTW there is nothing premade to make any of this whole process easy. Between making the mounting bracket, adapting the control panel into the console, routing air ducts and adapting them to the dash outlets, wiring, underdash evap/blower mounting, condensor mounting, refrig hose creating/routing/, etc etc etc its all "create it from scratch using your imagination". Installs now take me about 35-50 hours depending on the level of detail fit and finish I'm trying to achieve. It's worth it in the end. It kept my Z cool in Arizona and back for ZCON 2012 and to San Diego and back via Vegas in August while running on low.

not sure if i want to confuse this but i'm pretty sure its a phillips head. I'm travelling and can't take a look at a spare. The only other slot head screws on a datsun that I can think of are the set screws on the choke knob and fan knob. and maybe the heater control knobs. So what possible reason would that set screw on the trip cable have to be a slot head.... Now I'm confused...

Your oil pump gasket issue was likely caused by problems with the sealing surfaces rather than the gasket itself. Being a simple flat piece of material it relies on the flatness and cleanliness of the metal on either side to get a seal. The gasket itself would have to extremely irregular in thickness or have holes rips or voids to not be able to seal such a simple situation if the mating surfaces wereclean and in good condition. Even a deep corrosion pit in the front cover or oil pump face might be the cause of the leak rather than the gasket. Im not discounting the possibility of cheaper materials that don't survive routine handling as well, or don't conform as well to "well used" surfaces, but lets be cautious about placing on the blame on gaskets while not mentioning the importance of proper surface prep.