zKars

Well of course I can part with it. Now the early ones are MUCH more valuable than the later ones due to scarcity. And I sand blasted and painted that one... Hmmmm... Let's see.... what will the market bear.... $25 + shipping?

First thing I'de check is the integrity of the wire crimp on the bullet connector that goes on the temp sensor. Pull back the outer clear (well, used to be clear... now yellowed) boot and have a good look and maybe replace the connector. The wire strands get corrosion buildup inside and maybe only a couple of strands are barely hanging on. Same for the starter trigger connector.

Act coming together. Here are the two styles that I have: Let me know.

I just realized it has a line in AND out. Might be a line lock to the front brakes. Foot on brake, turn it on, valve closes, pressure stays trapped in front, do burn out, carry on. and what you do with a towel in the cowl area should stay between you and the car... Surprised it took you 15 minutes.... and philip beats me to it. But my joke part was better...

I'll guess, Hydraulic pressure actuated Brake light switch. Cause putting that in was easier than replacing the 2$ switch at the brake pedal....

When I get my act together (soon, ever?) I'll take pictures of the ones I have to post and maybe Bruce can point out the one that would work best for your manifold. The only difference is in the cut-outs, ie what they fit around and how. Bruce, help!

Bruce, I know it was April 1 when you wrote that, but stilll... Fine, ha ha. I probably only have the special "cold weather" heat shields too that are extra thick and won't fit your US "ZEE's"... You do know that the US is the ONLY country in the world where they say "ZEE", it couldn't be that maybe, YOU guys, have the funny name for them? nuck nuck? or is that Canuck? My little stock of these should probably live at your house anyway. What good are heat shields in the frozen north?

How many would you like? There are a couple of styles depending on years. Give me a email to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send you pics of what I have.

I think we have now established the car does not have to be moving, so its not the drive shaft u-joints. So we are down to an exhaust leak or something in the transmission perhaps. Ok, answer this question. If you are sitting in the car at idle, and you hear the sound, then you increase the RPM's slowly up to say, 2500 then back down to idle (do not move the car, only touch the gas pedal), does the clicking rate (clicks per second) increase and decrease at exactly the same rate as engine RPM? I have another an idea, remove the console and the boot around the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel so you can see and/or hear the noise source more clearly.

If it happens while the car is sitting still, its an exhaust leak. If only while moving, its what Cappy says.

I bought one too! Nice. And, as if it's not enough to be pretty, I now have a way to remember the measurement from the front tire center line to the front marker light! I'll never have to look it up again! Wahoo!

http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Imperial/2007-imperial-fan-clutches.pdf Perhaps this finally will clear up the "is the clutch locked up cold or hot?" confusion of the day.... Read the paragraph on "Thermal Fan Clutch"

Try these guys ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners

The horns mounts on each side, under one of the bumper shock mount bracket bolts. If I remember correctly.... The wire that connects to them is a single wire with a spade connector. Once you find that on each side, that will determine the range of motion where the horns can mount with the wire attached.

MSA has the panel. Motorsport! Rear Panel Lower Repair Insert, 70-8/74 240Z-260Z, 9/74-78* 260Z-280Z* - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts BTW its raw, ie flat. It does not fit "as is". They are not kidding when they say: "Note: This is a weld-in patch panel, not an original panel replacement. It will require modifications and fitting to match your existing panel". Going to have to go get yourself a nice english wheel and make it curvy. Eastwood has a nice little one. They are SO fun to use and experiment with. (please forgive the non-Z in the forground. At least it's a datsun)

Sure sounds like exhaust. Check the three stud downpipe flange seal. I've seen the flanges be warped before, but appear to tighten down normally, that leave a tiny gap. Doesn't take much to let that noise out.

Nice job taking those pictures so all the bolt/attachment points between the trans and block in question can't be seen clearly... There are four "big" bolts (two on top, two on the sides, all from trans into engine block), and two little bolts (trans to cover plate, on the bottom) holding it together. Got them all? Other than that, what Madkaw says. Hit it son, just hit it.... Drop the trans jack so the engine jack point and the engine mounts are doing ALL the support. Make sure the trans is free to rise and fall an inch or so as you jack the engine jack up and down a bit. Then reapply the trans jack to JUST take a tiny amount of the weight off the trans. Now you KNOW there is no bending force at the trans/engine point, if you trans jack is at the trans balance point. Now yank that tranny straight back off the engine. You did take the drive shaft off, right? and the shifter is out of the trans hole in the tunnel?

I'll try to describe my experience in using the HTS2000 rods to help this go smoothly for you Think of what you are doing like this. That post, when it broke, left you with two rough surfaces on each side of the part where the post fractured. Your objective is put "glue" on both of those rough surfaces that you are re-joining, then get the "glue" covered faces to stick to each other. You are NOT, trying to surround the two broken parts with a glob of this molten rod to hold them together the way you might wrap a blob of JB weld on there. So rule one. The metal has to get hot enough to melt the rod. The rod must not be melted via flame heat. Heat the metal with a flame, remove the flame, then touch the rod to the metal, which must melt the rod. HTS2000 melts 500F cooler than aluminum itself melts, BUT with such a small part, you have to be very careful with the heat. Apply heat for 10 seconds, try touch the rod to the part. No melt?, apply flame for 20 seconds, try again. Continue adding time until the rod just melts so you can work with it, and you can keep the melt going with on-off flame application. The rod turns shiny when it melts, goes dull when it solidifies. Rule two. to get the metal face to "wet itself" with the molten rod you have to have a perfectly clean surface, which you get with first acetone soak to degrease, and second, with a fine stainless steel brush to clean the metal of oxidation. To get the metal to "wet" into the pores of the aluminum, you have to RUB the molten rod into the surface of the metal. Just putting a blob on there won't work, you have to work it in. The HTS rod instructions speak of using that SS brush to rub it in. This works, but for tiny parts, I'm not sure. You can use the mechanical action of rubbing the rod onto the surface as its melting to work it in too. If you get it right, you will have a shiny surface coated wwith the molten rod, with the same roughness it had to start with, ie you have a pretty thin coat on there. Once you get BOTH side of the break surface coated, you can assemble the parts, clamped together, which won't fit real tight because of the excess now coating the mating surfaces, but get it close. too Much rod on the surfaces makes alignment tough at this point. Then heat it up to the melt point again. When both side melt, the parts will magically mate together perfectly squeezing out any excess. Remove heat immediately. Let it cool naturally, no water bath! Now another approach may be to scrap that little part of the post that broke off and REPLACE it with a molten mass of HTS2000 rod, cool it and then file/dremel/drill it back into shape. You would have to build a thin sheet metal (steel or tin can) dam around the part (HTS won't stick to ferrous metals) to then fill with the molten rod. You would have to begin by creating a wetted surface on the part first as described above, then add enough rod volume to build it up beyond the size of the missing piece. Again, let it cool naturally. I've repaired broken bolt hole tabs on heads and front covers using this techique. ie don't "glue" the busted off part back on, build up material and machine up a new tab and hole. The cold rod material is stronger than the base aluminum. Good luck with your fix attempt. Maybe practice on same scrap Aluminum pieces about the size of the parts your working with to get a feel for heat and wetting. Have fun

Never fear, it can be fixed! where on the support bar did it break? Right at the split where the pin fits, or down lower? Order an HTS 2000 welding/brazing rod (google for a supplier like HTS-2000, Low temperature Brazing Rods for thin alloys, cast aluminum, zinc, magnesium and nonferrous metals. looks like they are in Houston) and try to braze it back on. If you weren't so dang far away.... Hmmmm, listen, just mail me your busted one, I'll mail you a good one, and I'll fix yours and keep it. Have to see a picture first I guess to judge how hard a fix this is. drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we do it from there.

Two muffler hanging tangs + short shifter mount ears = 77-78 280z One muffler hanging tang + short shifter mount ears (~1" tall) = 79-81 280zx One muffler hanging tang + long shifter mount ears (~2" tall) = 82-83 280zx - the one we all crave.

Somehow the engineer in me feels a bit 'dirty' suggesting this, but a million of us (slight exaggeration) have done the unthinkable and used a more commonly available 1/8" NPT threaded gauge or adapter fitting into the block without leakage and still manage to sleep at night. A purist might run a 1/8 NPT tap into the threads to form them a bit, but what works works. 1/8 BSPT is 28 TPI, which 1/8 NPT is 27 TPI so it seems like you really shouldn't do that but... Adapters are easily available from M-C as suggested. To clear my conscious... http://www.mcmaster.com/#bspt-to-npt-pipe-fitting-adapters/=r2rurr

Any more questions about the effectiveness of proper head work?

If he doesn't get it, phrase it a different way. "If you want us to visit, which usually includes bringing MONEY AND CARE PACKAGES, then choose a different college..."

You know it has snowed too much when you start wanting more just to break a record. I fully expect to have this thread continued by reports of the flooding caused by much the too fast onslaught of spring weather that will now melt that record snowfall. Get your valuables OUT of the basement now, while you have the chance.

Very nice, and a great price. I'm especially impressed with the look of the row of screws/bolts that are holding the half-cap lip down and in-place on the dash. I wonder if that means its not glued down? Are there the same fasteners along the top? Might be an option for someone.