zKars

So I get this decent set of 14x6 aluminum 5 slot mags from a Z friend who recently sold his Z. For cheap. Picked one up, and WOW! Light! weighted it, 11 lbs! Cleaned up the back and see they are Fenton wheels, "GYRO Racing Wheels" embossed on the back. Then I googled them and found this article. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/why-you-should-not-run-fenton-mags.34158/ Time to call the recycler! Got Fenton wheels? Show car only! No driving! Jim

Seems we've lost another great guy and close Datsun family member from our midst. RIP Todd, you will be missed. Prayers to your wife and family. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28237&p=245755&hilit=walrich#p245755

I'd be real suspicious of any shop claiming to have greased the rear wheel bearings. Given the effort required to get there to do that, unless they charged you for 2-3 hours for that item, they didn't do it at all. I see you've already had your BS detector tripped and went to a different shop. Very wise.

This is the head light connector in front of the rad. Now is that the headlight harness end or the car harness end?

Yes, there are many things I wish I had more of. Somehow I have amassed an interesting collection of bits of pieces, haven't I? Good to hear about the antenna judging (or lack there of...). Those guys are pretty thorough, surprised that was ignored. Maybe we should stop talking about it....

Ain't not never seen that thing on any Datsun I know. Most likely someones way to turn on fog lights, rad fan, the ignition, who knows..

Aha! 2+2 for sure is the reason for the extra length. all coupe doors are the same width. I have tons of the short ones if that works for you, Sorry got none of the inner black vinyl covered ones though, rare as hens dentures. If the underlying tin is in good shape, yup, just strip the old vinyl and texture coat them with something tough. Box liner? They are scuff plates after all. and rereading your initial post, you were only asking for the inner ones anyway. Trying to be too helpful...

Can you check the distance between the screw holes at the ends of the tin scuff plate (Datsun word side, the up side), and the overall length and let me know? I have a pair of these are about 2" longer than the usual 240 plates, and I suspect they are late 280.

I believe I may have a small selection of those. Let me have a look.

Yup, that about sums up what to expect. Great people, great beer, great coffee, great Z's. Great job OZCOA. Gonna be epic, eh? 50-50 chance of a blizzard or massive heat wave no matter what part of summer you do this in, so early August it is.

Toronto's infamous summer heat AND humidity is just a rumor. That teeny tiny lake it's next to has no effect whatsosever It's really more like Steve's interpretive picture year round. I WILL be there. Better leave soon, it's a long boring drive from here to there.

The ZX clutch pedal and linkage are quite different from your 77. Not usable. Remove the weatherstrip for Goldie and keep the diff too!

Don't forget to give random hugs or fist bumps or whatever works to all the organizers before you-all scatter to the four winds. See ya'll in TO next year!

Wish I was there. Soak it all in and don't miss a thing. Any word on next year whereabouts?

all the stock ss arms I have are not polished. Old school brushed looking. They could be polished is you like, ss tends to polish well.

Now all is clear. er. Would you like a set of 240 ss arms? Contact me at z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there if you can't find some from a closer source.

I'm confused. 240 and 280 arms are the "same" except for the way the blades mount and the paint on the later ones. Pretty much any generic blades I buy come with several types of mounting adapters. Why not just get some SS 240 arms (banzai, zcarsource, me etc), bolt 'em on and go? Same same.

Hard to imagine a more clear circuit diagram than what is in the Body Electrical FSM section, page BE-9. The top "summary" diagram gives you overall idea (including the switched grounds) and the lower diagram gives you every possible detail with wire colors and every involved connector. The "B" wire off of the combo switch (lower right) is the switched ground wire that the RB and RW wire connect with depending on dimmer switch position.

I've had about 10,000 km on mine now with narry a missed beat. Just love this thing! Nothing like programmable and new. Maybe the best part is being able to have 5 deg advance for easy starting then immediately having 15 for idle that my triples love. Or being able to switch to a higher initial advance with the AC on the bump up the idle speed...

It's what you say to your dog named "Coppertop" right after you say "Sit!"

Interesting. Hard to understand how backfire pressure makes it to the fuel bowl or into the fuel supply lines. Well one thing I can say with some certainty, if fuel is actually squirting out of the banjo seals, they are loose and need to be tightened. I'd take it apart and make sure there is no crap on the seal surfaces preventing the seal.

Jim, Jim here. I talked to the guy, Jim (of course)... He says he has one. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll have a threesome.

Hang on. I know a guy... Unicorn horns and hen's teeth are easy....

These came from a late 280Z. They had mirrors

Me too. Purchased it in Phoenix during ZCON 2012 after a rock hit on the way down. Still in good shape, other than the usual sand blasting from the roads around here. FW241 is the part number. Poor glass guy that did the install had to do it in full sun out in the farthest corner of the Hotel parking lot. He was told before that he could not do any work inside the parkaid. Poor bastard. I stood in the shade of his van while he toiled. Total pro, I gave him a hell of a tip.