zKars

I'm having trouble imagining where it is "hitting the strut towers". Can you describe where this contact occurs? Given what I know about the front sway bar, being 1" or so wider than stock would do nothing more than slightly increase the angle of the links at the end of the bar that connect it to the control arm. The thing fits under the car, how can it interfere with the strut towers?

Thought I'd fill this thread out a bit. Discovered this item on ebay. Fibreglass one piece valance. From a Canuck no less! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1975-Front-Valance-fits-Nissan-Datsun-240z-and-260z-/111788128159?hash=item1a0717779f:g:LEwAAOSw7ThUmOph&vxp=mtr

Many thanks to Zup for the valance panel. Now the 71 gets it's smile back!

Read EF-14 in the FSM to get real clear on how the Thermotime switch works and how it controls the Cold start valve. It's most important function to ensure the CSV is only used during cranking when the engine is cold (<14-22C) and to prevent the CSV from being on for too long if you do a lot of cranking before it fires. Given all the enrichment control the MS gives you about starting and cold operation, there is no "need" to use the CSV, but it may be an interesting exercise.

Alrighty. Found my stash of these valves. Discovered there two slightly different ones, the cap on two are aluminum, the others are steel. All bodies are all aluminum. I took the cap off one of the aluminum ones, the threads didn't survive. Took one steel cap off, no problems. Clean threads. All my valves are plugged with deposits, but they disolve quickly with Muratic Acid. CLR is slow for sure. Since the aluminum capped one is toast, I attempt to extract the guts. Success! Came right out. I used a set of bent nose c-clipp pliers as a pin wrench. Just twist until it gives. Now I can clean and rebuild the interior bits. Can't see why most of these wouldn't be restorable as long as body threads are good and the inside bits are badly corroded. One more observation. The fluid sealing cone is metal, likely brass. It seals against a tapered section of the body. No way this would ever made a perfect seal. Note the FSM statement above in the test proceedure about "little or no bubbles". Makes sense now.

I thought I remembered this discussion from hybridz. Interesting reading at least. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109345-su-carb-manifold-heat-control/?hl=%2Bthermostat+%2Bvalve+%2Bmanifold i promise to look at my valves today. was a bit chilly out in the shop yesterday. -25C in the morning, only +13C in the shop. Dang new infrared heater is not up to the task at -25C! Brrrrr...

PM sent for the lighting parts. thanks

Given the shock compression loads on these things driving on rotted pavement, it's not much wonder they don't survive long. Go back to nice new stock bushings. You'll appreciated the less percusive ride quality and not likely notice any handling difference.

I think you have the operating intention correct. Closes as the water warms. I have a couple of spares here, no idea if they work either. I'll dig up a couple and see if they work or respond to some CLR like you're trying.

It will work. You will have to swap the guts and face of the 280 gauge into the 240 housing. The housing are different and mount in the dash differently. Other than that the 280 speedo will read just fine.

I might help us all understand what condition car you're looking for if you wouldn't mind picking between these two cars as your preferred starting point. 1. Car is all original, complete, low miles (10-30k), only minor wear to most components. Rust free. Paint is fine as is. Everything works. Comes at high price. Series 1 car, $30-40K. Series 2, $25-30K. Less than $5k to bring car to near 300 pt perfection. 2. Car is 95% original, missing items easily available. Low rust, medium mileage. Paint and body needs to be redone, minor rust handled, as expected with age and usage. Has had some simple practical upgrades to brakes, suspension, electrical. Series 1 car. Rare color combination. Nothing done that can't be undone easily to pure stock. Running, driving, insured, safe everything works. Price is lower, $12-15K but needs time and money into restoration to make it really nice like #1.

Good luck drilling it. Possible with the right bit, but slave cylinders are pretty cheap on Rockauto, like $10-$12. Just get the one that has the fixedad length rod. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=484886&cc=1209260&jnid=436&jpid=12

PM's replied. Thanks gang!

I'll keep zcarsource in mind. I have to make a little heat escape this winter that neck of the woods so I'll bring one back if I don't find one by then. Steve, if the panel you have is for the early 260 with the 240 like skinny chrome bumper, it may be ok. THe late 260 has the 280 valence components. Definite no-fit. Can you measure the width distance between the pair of mount holes on each end? and the overall width of the panel? Maybe post a picture. Or just send all that to z240@shaw.ca. Thanks!

Rarely do I get to beg for assistance with parts, but I need help finding something. I'm working on a nice early 71, and need a nice stock front center front valance panel. This is the trim body panel that spans across the front under the bumper between the left and right valance panels that hold the turn/marker light assemblies on the 70-74 240/260. Straightness trumps rust condition or color, although minimal rust is best of course. Show me what you have and what you'd like for it. Sorry the 75-78 center valance panel does not work in this application. I have infinite fun things to trade, just let me know what you'd like. Remember I'm in the land of the 70 cent / US dollar up here in Canadia, so be kind with your asking price. Surely many of you have replaced the stock pieces with one of the lovely eurathane air dams. Please don't tell me you "just tossed mine", I'll cry.

The splines in the steering column are free to engage at any clocking. Should count those splines and see if they match the steering wheel splines. Should be pretty similar. THat way you can stuff the shaft back up the column at any clocking and adjust the wheel back to center without any mis-alignment.

Bring it home. Bring it home. It needs a forever family. It's Christmas! It can't be alone at this time of year.

That's kind of you to offer! Please check if the console is still there, especially the ash tray/fuse area cover and defroster switch. Thanks!

I recently reminded myself about the difference in heaadlight switch sets over the various years. I was shocked to be re-reminded of how fragile the early switch sets are compared to later ones in terms of the wiring not just the switch contacts. They increased the wire gauge after the series 1 cars that lead to the HL switches (not to mention moving the switch from the ground side to the fuse side), The switches and the contacts themselves are identical internally from 70-78. The wiring, not so much. I can't emphasis enough the need to upgrade to a relay system no matter what type of headlight you end up using. Don't forget to service (clean) the contacts where the new harness connects to the old head light connectors up front. Those things are exposed to the elements and are always grundgy.

Chas has the right idea. Part is available through Amazon.com and many others I'm sure. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280161006-Fuel-Pressure-Damper/dp/B000CF5W10

Surprise! Most don't know about that two piece column with that set of splines hidden in there. Nows the time to remove that shaft and grease up those splines. Takes out some slop. Also inspect the two ujoints in that shaft, likely the cups are dry and again, you have some slop you don't need. Search for that thread about replacing those u-joints.

I purchased them several years ago now from the designer. They have been contributing to my driving experience ever since. They do not encroach on left foot space, my #12's fit in there just fine. Bit sad it's 240 only, as 260/280's ECU (not 260 duh) and new fancy big fuse box on the right make this mod impractical.

That is such a cool thing to discover. There are so many inter-related actions and reactions to consider. Good sleuthing.

Looks to me like a drilled hole that's been plugged. Is that directly opposite the oil feed hole to the cam towers?

No bolt should be a mystery that needs our help to figure out.. With few exceptions most bolts are 4/0.7, 5/0.8, 6/1.0, 8/1.25, 10/1.5 (into engine block or trans) or 10/1.25 or 12/1.25 (suspension). Lengths can always be estimated by adding the thickness of what is being bolted down + 2 times the bolt diameter. I'd go buy one bolt and nut of each thread and use them for test fits anytime you have a question.