zKars

I think your only hope is to add a pulley to the face of the ATI single groove pulley. Just adding a longer belt to get to the Compressor leaves too little belt contact length on ALL the pulleys.

I just received and installed the latest and greatest BlueToorth version of the distributor. Absolutely love the thing. The iphone app for it is designed very well and works great.. It is SO much better to have this on my iphone rather than having to drag out the old laptop and USB cable to tune this thing. The real time gauge displays of advance/RPM/Vacuum/temp/Voltage is very slick. It's also able to display GPS speed from your phone's GPS system. Nice integrated analog gauge display. It even has a cool security feature. You can disable the distributor from the app with one click and turn it back on when you return! Just remember to change your Bluetooth PIN from the default or anybody can defeat that. It does allow you to alter the tune when driving, but only to either add or remove timing. So a proper review would not be complete mentioned a couple of backward steps. They have removed the "dual tune switchable while driving" feature, and the ability to save and restore a library of tunes. You can only have one timing and vacuum advance map in the device, and you can't store it and retrieve another. Not sure if I think this is a problem, the real time advance up/down ability compensates for some of what's lost. Anyway, generally very pleased! Thanks Ed for the great service.

Right Size, Great Handling, Available. Pick two. Well except, Right Size and Available.... or Right SIze and Great Handling.... Wait....

Definitely watching. There are more than a few "purists" on here with quite stock restorations that should share what they've shod their beasties with... Zup etc?

Yes. The cap has an arrow on it that is to face forward, and is a snap on loose fit.

I'll put my 2cent bet at a rather large vacuum leak.

Recently discussed including a new option

DOT 3 brake fluid is a wonderful paint remover (look at your brake vacuum booster and below the master if you need proof) and will not harm plastics. Give it a shot.

Well this worked out just ducky! Leon bought my old Tune dizzy and I bought a new Blue Tooth model at a nice discount. Thanks to both of you! Nice slightly late birthday present. Now I have another thing to do on my IPhone while driving....

Excellent news Ed! Thanks for doing this! BTW, if anyone wants a lightly used 123 Tune distributor I'd be willing to part with mine for a reasonable offer. I'm craving the new Bluetooth and IOS App enabled version!

Note this article and auction are from May 2014. That car has my name on it. Literally. And several others here as well. Thanks at least for the reminder of that special time back at the run-offs in 2013.

The door glass is not the same over all 8 years of production. 77-78 glass is quite different in how it mounts to the frame that connects to the regulator arms and is thus not interchangable with other years. The glass mount frame is also different for 74-76 but the glass is the same 70-76. The two short "C" channels where the regulator arms rollers run are positioned differently in the 74-76 frames than earlier ones. You will have problems with arms falling off the frame if you mix regulators and glass frames. Even the door mounted guide channel at the front changed for 74-76. The 74-76 regulators are different too as they have a wider offset where they mount to the door. I assume they were "improving" the glass fit and function and moving the regulator inboard 1/4" and tweeking the various guide channels made it work better. Then they gave up and totally changed the glass mechanism for 77-78. That stuff works fantastic. Thanks for the overall advice about glass polishing. I have a polish kit coming. Time to freshen up some old glass!

Yup.. Overlaps the pinch weld welting half of the weatherstrip. The line up with the existing three mounting holes locations should confirm

Good detective work. I believe there is a valve in that hot water line that is supposed to stop the coolant flow after it reaches something near operating temp. Dollars to donuts its staying open the whole time.

Let's get a couple of thing straight about the correct function of these bushings. In the stock bushings, the inner and outer steel shells are BONDED to the bushing rubber between them. When you assemble the strut to the control arm, you leave the pin loose until the car is at normal right height. THEN you torque everything down. This LOCKS the center sleeve of the bushings in the control arm to the strut and leaves the rubber in a neutral un-twisted position. From this point on, ANY suspension motion twists the rubber in the bushing, there is no rotation of the pin in the bushing or in the strut. Poly bushings are completely different as the bushing is not bonded to the control arm hole (you remove the stock bushing outer tube that WAS bonded to the control arm hole, that hole becomes the outer constraint) or to its center tube that the spindle pin passes through. They allow rotation of the center tube in the bushing. hence the need for that sticky lube so they don't squeak. They are too stiff a material to use them like stock rubber bushings. The center bushing tube is still locked to the control arm when it's all torqued correctly. It matters little what sort of bolt you use to create this lock up condition, spindle pin or 5/8's bolt. Although the slightly smaller OD 5/8 bolt does allow for a tiny bit of slop in the strut hole. But if its all locked up correctly, there ain't no room for schnanigans..

The smog pump will have no effect on under hood temps. Don't bother. Check your fuel system to ensure correct volume and pressure specs. Change the filter at least. Possibly also replace the needle and seat in the carb where you see the overflow. This is either excess pressure or a poor needle seal.

That's the funniest damn thing I've seen in days!! Just regular folk working the line. Monday morning or the local cultural equivalant for sure. That one is going up on the shop wall for sure. Thanks for sharing! And who knew they had an official "Nissan" logo stamp! Any one seen that used any where else on a Nissan product?

DIdn't think I had one, but I do. Here is how the "right" one looks. The flange is 0.125 thick.

Hmmmm... Maybe these are not the right inner bushings? Kit incorrect? Maybe some of the other bushings just happen to fit that ID? Look at the others for the ones with the really skinny flange... just grasping at straws here

The most recent couple of these I installed had much thinner inner faces that these. The fit was 'snug', but this looks impossible. I guess I'd take them out and sand them thinner. What brand are they and when were they purchaced. Tough to use anything sharp other than on a lathe.

Happy Retirement! Nothing better as long as it was your decision! Spend more time with at Z!

I would be very curious why the mech. thinks it needs shims. Ask him to explain how the measurements were made. There are no shims in the stock factory configuration, just a choice of three different "Distance Pieces" stampled A, B and C. I've personnally never seen anything other than 'B"'s. If shims are needed, you either find a different strut housing or make shims. Or have a new piece of pipe made to make a distanct piece that is the right length as mentioned above. This is basic machine shop stuff. Shim stock is nearly free. Another thought, for 240 stubs, you will often find a copper "shim" on top of the inner bearing between the inner axle flange and the bearing.This is not a spacer, it is (I've heard it here!) a noise reducing trick. It has nothing to do with positioning the bearings in the races.

Belmetric is another favorite source for on-line metric hardware. https://www.belmetric.com/12x125-extra-fine-c-506_510_411/?zenid=4r9ti9km82ktavslj3ruvmb9b2

As long as the bolt threads in by 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt or protrudes through the hole its threaded in, you should be fine. They are 12mm x 1.25 bolts if you go shopping. Buy the 10.9 grade ones.

Man there isn't much that high input pressure do other than overwhelm the needle seat and overflow the bowls. Once the pressure is right, nothing else should be an issue. Maybe the needle fit changed, or the floats where tweeked? Might make a pretty high velocity jet through the needle orfice. Who knows what it caused. Do check float levels while running if that's possible. You need the in/out flow stabilized to see where the floats sit in operating mode. I'd be tempted to take a look at the floats and pivots and needle tips to make sure everything is tickatee boo.