zKars

Let's start with the problem that 240 hinges attach to the body with bolts from the inside (hinge has threaded holes), while 280 hinges attach with bolts from outside the body (bolts pass through hinges, into threaded body plates). Me thinks the ebay ad is thus somewhat misleading. You can drill out the 240 hinge threaded holes and "make" 280 hinges out of them. Using 280 hinges on a 240 is more problematic. (Weld holes and rethread). I believe all the doors and bodies share bolt count and location. Kits exist to re-bush/re pin your hinges. unless they are broken or missing the springs, just do that

I know the one you mean. It needs a castle-like cover that acts as the lock for the cauter/cotter/cotur pin. I can always scrouge up stuff like this is you can't find one elsewhere. Let me know at z240@shaw.c

Thinking too hard here guys. Just take a hose off one carb, and put it in a cup, and try cranking the motor and see what you get for volume. If you get a decent stream, try putting your finger over the end of the hose and see if you can build up pressure. You should not be able to hold the pressure back without making a squirty mess. It's not about pressure, or flow, but both.

Absolutely begin with all three carbs independant linkage wise. Get each one flowing the same as you set the idles amoungst the three until the car idles well. Make sure the idle mix screws are all the same turns out (1, 1.5, not past three or you have other issues...) as a starting point. THEN hook up the linkage (should not cause ANY throttle change from base case) and get it idling again.

Is your fan cracked/broke or are you trying to get better air flow with a modern design . I have a few spare stock fan's if you just need a replacement. Might also checkout Spalusa.com for motor and fan options.

I would definitely restore it myself. I done a few and it's totally a D!Y (there I go with the abbrevs again...) The only exception is if the dash foam and/or skin is so hard and brittle that it breaks/cracks with an easy finger tip press. Then its a loosing cause unless you totally fibreglass skin the dash.

I've never seen or had any in-dash wiring break or appear brittle with dash removal and referbishment. Unless you include the high current wiring (fat White/red) and their single terminal connections, and maybe the fusebox. I'm sure the $900 guy is just doing a CYA thing.

Is the mirror body real thin? Then likely 510

$80?!?!?!?!? That there is a $300 dollar antenna if it works and is complete! And no I don't have one. I don't think.....

Very nice work. You realize you have to post wiring diagrams, and part numbers/ year/make/model of the Honda you borrowed the servo's from, don't you?

Fuel filling problems are often caused by a problem with the vent air return hose that T's into the filler hose near the top. Air has to escape out the vent line as the tank is filled BEFORE the nozzle of the filler, or the air will try to escape back out the main fill hose triggering the release on the gas station knozzle. Chances are you have broken cracked vent lines.

Bet you didn't know these exist. http://www.jegs.com/p/Allstar-Performance/Allstar-Brake-Line-Quick-Disconnects/1626846/10002/-1 Also bet you they aren't street legal...

Perhaps todays youth are not so easily manipulated as I had hoped. No bites on the FB ad so far.

I know these things dies a natural death for a reason. The clear 3M film was the final Le-nail in the Le-coffin. Well then I'll put it on facebook as the coolest retro Z accessory ever and it will sell in a heart beat to a nice unsuspecting youngster.

I knew I would spark your collective imaginations. Nice job everyone. Site, if you want it, I'll make you a great deal. Name your price! So, no le-panties.....

and you wonder why fuel injection was created.... Time to create a variable orffice (iris?) thingy controlled by SU piston position and software.....

Sorry to start this rather "racy" topic on a Sunday morning, but I have something I believe you will want to see in the way of vintage intimate Z apparel. I find myself with a rather skimpy piece of clothing that just doesn't fit my well endowed Z. Perhaps its more to your liking and style. This item is new and un-worn. I resisted the urge to try it on. Never know who's lurking around with a camera these days.... Let me know if you're interested. Asking $50 + shipping but will consider all offers. Will package in a plain brown wrapper to ensure your privacy and to reduce embarrasent upon arrival. Final buyer will remain anonymous.

How many Corinthians does it take to do a Z upholstery job anyway?

The only problem I've ever had with these was on an L18 in a 610, a REAL long time ago. The oil pump pressure relief valve jambed up and the oil pressure followed RPM like a tach. Then it got quite high, then It went to 0 and stayed there. It had sheared the tang off the end of the shaft. Point being, oil pump malfunctions can also cause spindle failure.

I have an ultra rare (ok, maybe not "ultra" but close, I guess it's not a red dot mirror...) 260z wiper motor. Really the only thing that makes it special is the one-year-only 6 pin black rubber round plug on the cable. Seems to work fine. Asking $100. PM me or z240@shaw.ca for details. Shipping is extra.

taken with a dash cam no doubt.... Sorry...

The 280 senders (side mount) have an "empty" sensor and an extra wire for that. Little red light on the fuel gauge will light up. Other than that they are identical (other than the connector) to the 240 senders if you need one and can't find a 280 sender.

I can spare a switch or two if none appear closer to home.

Just keep ALL the bits from the 240 clutch wise (disk, plate, throwout, bearing sleeve) and it will bolt up and work. Don't use any of the stuff from the car with the trans you're using.

Other than then 82/83 turbo's that got that silly BW 5 speed, all the NA cars have the same transmission within their years. The ratios in the first couple of years are different than the later ratio's, most notably the over drive. 82-83 5 speeds are the sweet spot all around.