zKars

The original picture is what 280 senders electrical connectors look like. They are not designed to be taken off or to be removable. The 240 senders had the slide on terminals and could be better insulated and water proofed by the rubber caps referenced above.

I was un-aware they were cupped to start with! as you can imagine, I have quite a few laying around and none exhibit any cup-ish-ness. Can't imagine why they would want them to be cupped, I would think that would consume a good part of the torque you're putting on the bolts or some such. I'm confused. again....

I would think the old washers you have would last for all eternity. Unless you lost a couple of course.

I have a crazy idea! When the gas gauge gets close to E, put more gas in the tank. Don't worry about the light that tells you the same thing. Sorry, couldn't resist. Now that I've had my fun at your expense, maybe there is a sender with that part in my collection. Somewhere.....

A hard pedal where you get immediate excessive braking at very distinct pedal point, has historically been commonly caused by the loss of the "reaction disk" in the booster. It's amazing how this thin little disk of rubber gives you the soft pedal and modulation control that utterly lost without it.

Wish I could help. I don't have a stock wired 510 anywhere handy.

Cat's out of the bag. New owner revealed!

Well that was easy! Seems 3798 will be going to new good home out east. It will be well cared for.

Well here we are, Spring 2018. if you call this "spring"... Spring = green where I come from, not white... Well I've decided to let this one go to a good home. Anybody want a very restorable 5/70 that is currently running and safe, let me know. Comes with a solid roof section to solve that skylight problem too. Have lots of S1 donor items from 2744 as well that can go with it as well at extra cost. 95% of what you need to make a very nice early Z. Just add hours, welding rod, and $$. You can have it for what I paid and the labour and parts I put in it to get it running and safe. PM me or z240@shaw.ca

I'll drop my asking price by the cost of the truck transport. Now THAT's determination.

I just wanted to update some pictures and provide some links that will make it easier to see the car and what's been done to it over time Have a look here for general pictures: http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/ and here where I dug up some pictures I took during a partial restoration of the underside in 2012. http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/2012_resto/ Also read this document to full history and details of what's been done. http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/240Z_Details.pdf

Yes she is. PM me or send me a note to z240@shaw.ca.

I'm going to regret not going to this, aren't I.... One trip to Georgia a year I guess

Stupid ancient tachs. Good reason that all tachs from about that time on-ward went to coil negative terminal trigger. Much more predictable waveforms to trigger on and count accurately There may not be much you can do to get your tach to trigger properly. Anything you "add" to the + side of the coil will reduce voltage and/or current to the coil and reduce spark strength. MAYBE go get a 0.7 ohm blaster coil and put the stock ballast resistor back in line and see if that helps? Use the stock coil and ballast? All of the modern tach adapter modules are designed for the negative trigger mode. No way to predict how any one of them might help or hurt, mostly likely will make it worse, unless you find one that specifically designed to handle the + coil power supply counting tach issue. Replacing your tach guts with a later 280z tach that uses the negative trigger is one common approach that tends to be reliable.

Just cuz you have nothing better to do, have you checked that the throttle butterfly is closed all the way with foot off the peddle? Just in case 'someone' may have tweaked the little adjuster screw on the side to get some idle bypass air via butterfly offset, rather than adjusting the official idle/air bypass? Just pointing out one of the assumptions one makes when doing tests like this that may escape consideration.

Don't forget the heat lamps and fan's to complete the sun baking and hair messing experience of a sunroof!

Can't fool you guys! For long....

Busted. Sad part is the core story is 99% true... My first car love was a piece of crap... But I wasn't fooled for long.

Maybe it's the fresh snow on the ground and the -13C temps on the first of April that has affected my brain function....

OK, great news. I've found my one true love of all time. Back when I was young (you know, the stone ages), the very first car any one let me drive was a sweet little white 68 Envoy Epic. A friend and I were out for lunch on school day, and I said, "can I drive?" and he said "sure". I got one block before I decided the joy in my heart was so overwhelming that I had to pull over and let him have his car back. He seemed very anxious for me to stop driving for some reason. True story. I fell in love with it immediately. I was heart broken when I heard just days later that it was stolen from the dealer lot where it was in for service (very unusual!). His entire family was in mourning. They were doing their best to appear strong, and spent much of the day laughing and smiling as best as they could. How brave they were. They even exclaimed "thank god it's gone!" In a feeble attempt to feign remorse. Then miraculously, it was returned to the dealer! Apparently the thief couldn't live with himself when he realized how heartbroken the owner was with the loss of such a wonderous vehicle. Anyway on a chance kijiji browing session, I came across this gem. https://oldcarjunkie.wordpress.com/2013/05/15/another-epic-for-sale/ What an opportunity to return my REAL car roots and to own a true classic. All of my other cars are for sale at $5 each. First come first served. Get this junk out of here! Gotta make room for the true classic.

The only things I know are different in the 280 bushing set are the steering rack bushings and the fact that 280's have a rear sway bar and 240's didn't (NAM), so there would be an additional set of rear end links and sway bar bushings.

Going through the various on-line FSM pdf files for the various years this morning, and sure enough, at least the 71 and 72 manuals list the "camshaft gear bolt" torque as 36-43 ft-lbs. The 73 manual if finally correct at 86-116 ft/lb Holy "engine destroyer" batman....

The drain plug is M8 x1.0. Banjo fittings are out there. Maybe just stuff a clear hose with 5/16 OD in the drain plug hole.. Or stick a Q-tip stick in the vent fitting and measure how far down the top of the float is. Of course you'd have to figure out the distance from the top of the float to the fuel level, the height of the vent tube to the "0" point on the body and do a bit of cipherin' A bit high tech I know... Just saying

Well it's spring here, almost, sort of, so it's time to once again put it out there that my baby is for sale. Surely someone is brave enough to consider making this special Z a member of their family. Let me know.

Clamp was likely just loose, or positioned on the wrong side of the "hump" on the pipe.