zKars

Norm is @ zeddsaver.com

My vote is to use an epoxy putty. There are several two part kneadable puttys out there. This has the advantange of actually making a permanent seal for the hole and with careful application will leave a very attractive and small repair.

I've had some mighty fine moose in my time, but this is not one of those times. Some things are just not worth it. Dan, go for it!

Bit late now, but for the next person who finds this thread, I've had excellent succes with a product called "B-Quiet Ultimate" from http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html. Easy to apply, forgiving during install, and very conformative. The cost is also much easier to bear.... And it works. They have a full line of sound control products. I have used their stuff on several projects now, including my own. Only down side is getting it off when you later find some rust repair that needs to be done. Don't ask how I know....

Pete Brock at BRE sells a nice car cover as well. Listed at $169 http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=car_covers

Not really a lot of "not rust" is what you mean I think... When previously painted interior machine screw heads are rusty (map light), its been in a very moist enviroment for a long time. Nearly every picture shows signs of the monster. Still, it has potential.

I'de be interested in picking it up. It would fit the spirit of the re-fresh I'm going through perfectly. I like the look of your interior, if your stock wheel is in excellent shape it would go much better with it. Can you measure the diameter of the wheel and length of the mounting hub for us please? Contact me here via private message (PM) or to my email z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there. Thanks!

You have either a loose connection somewhere in the ignition wiring to and from the ignition module, at or in the distributor, or from the power supply wiring that feeds it all. More likely, you have a bad ignition module internally. Pretty tough to diagnose an intermittent problem like this. Could even be the tach itself. If its shorting its sensor line to ground internally, it would kill the ignition. So step one, disconnect the tach from the circuit by unplugging the in-line resistor in the harness below the glovebox against the fire wall (blue tape around a black rubber nubben about the size of your thumb), do without the tach for a bit and see if the problem persists. Put a want to buy add in here for a module. Lost of folks have replaced there stuff with later dizzy's from ZX's and other aftermarket solutions. I have one, but I'm not likely the closest person to ya!

I'll send you hatch latch striker. Display it on your desk, slightly off center of course...

Aha! success! 72OJ wins the prize. Even though I had to lead you-all by the nose to get there... Now I have complete faith in the Nissan engineers of the time, but for the life of me, wouldn't you want thing in the middle to hold the hatch evenly? Looking at the way the release button touches the bar of the latch mech, it kinda has to be like it is, but jeez! I know there is a common issue with the left side of the hatch on some Z's not wanting to sit all the way down flush with the body, (mine is severe!), maybe this is a contributing factor?

ok, this isn't working like I'de hoped. Sorry Guy, I think the result of moving the striker is pretty normal. Alright, if YOU had to design a hatch latch thing, and you could only use one, and the hatch was symetrical in every way, where would you put it?

Everyone must be hung over or sleeping this morning. Hint number one. Its not about how it functions, its about how it's positioned.

rcb, it can be, but it will not work, at least you can't release it with the button. Good to see some are thinking about this. You may have to out and stare at it for a while...

Mike you are right that it is not water tight, but that's not the "right" answer. Keep thinking about it.

Today I discovered something about the hatch latch mechanism that out- right astounded me. Its the LAST thing I would have expected. Its just not logical. Anyone else guess what it might be? Thought I'de turn this into a learning experience. Maybe its a well known thing, we'll see....

There is no way you could break that thing without there being a pre-existing flaw or crack in that axle. Consider yourself lucky you found it this way. Hope your wrench is not the cause...

Search here for BSPT and you fill find the exact sizes, but as Bruce says, and as I have done just about everywhere, run an NPT tap into them then use an NPT plug. The recent thread I remember mentions Grainger and maybe McMaster Carr as sources for BSPT fittings if you must do it "right"

My turn for a guess. Rear brake dust shield/backing plate bent or dinged ever so slightly contacting the brake drum, coupled with a slightly worn rear wheel bearing to give it the flex it needs to touch in a left turn....

They are likely brake line crush washers. Though its been a while since I had stock brakes. Hard line from the caliper has no such seal, then the connection to the rubber line to the body doesn't have one either... Maybe its for a banjo style brake fitting for a different car that these calipers also fit? Not sure I'm being helpful here... Okay, in general any connection that does not have a male/female 45 degree flare fitting pair would need this washer, like any place where a flexible hose male end mates to a flat machined surface would need this flat copper crush washer for a seal. Hope this helps.

70-78 fenders are all interchangable. Frank may be thinking about 280zx fenders which have nothing in common with S30 fenders.

If there is additional components on the speedo, would be simple to transfer the sensor package on the back to the new one.

Totally. Functionally in every way. Same mounting. Connectors are the same too. There was a font change on the gauge faces, but I think that happened sometime in 76-77 transistion.

Don't know if its in your budget, but replacing your old belts with some new ones is likely a wize safety move. There are several aftermarket belt manufactures. MSA has a set from one of them. Worst comes to worst I may have something tucked away....

Some one actually did a smoke pressure test in their Z (fill interior with smoke, seal and pressurize, watch where it comes out) they were so desparate to find the leak. There were leaking body panel seams in the rear of his car. I can vouch for that one on my 73. I'm in the midst of stripping the undercarriage and now that the undercoating is gone, there are a couple of obvious seam seal "boo boo's" from the factory where the goop was left a little short on a couple of seams. Nice... Here's my list of where to look, and places that need attention (and that don't) -Tail light gaskets -Antenna drain grommet and the antenna mounting hole itself. -Hatch seal weatherstrip. -Gas fill hose grommet in hatch deck -Vapour line grommet next to and ahead of the filler tube. -Gas tank vapor line grommets at the rear that pass through the hatch floor. -Drain hole plugs in spare tire well -Hatch hinge boots -Rear marker lights. Rubber seal on the body, cracked/loose lenses? -The hatch is full of holes that can allow outside air into the void within the hatch structure. The only barrier to the interior of the car that is inside the perimeter of the hatch seal itself, is the glass weatherstrip and the rectangular vinyl trim panel that mounts with 10 rivets/screws. It's old piece of dry crumbled foam seal tape is not doing its job and this panel if very often warped making a seal pretty tough. This panel should be replaced or the seal re-newed. You guys with the early vented hatch panels that aren't perfect are nearly screwed here.... Do not worry about the two 1 inch holes w/rubber plugs on either side of the hatch latch or the dovetails on the sides. With the hatch latch being a big open hole, their condition is irrelevant. Concentrate on the hatch trim panel and the glass weather strip. I think the likelyhood of any of these being the culprit is at a maximum at the very rear near the exhaust side, and falls rapidly as you move to the right and toward the front of the car. Even things like the rear strut mounting site at top of strut towers don't have any real seal to the outside world. And I should mention the possibility of a leak further up. Small engine bay exhaust leaks and imperfectly sealed holes in the firewall... Say no more say no more... And lets not even mention all the rust related voids that are lurking in places you'de rather not know about..... Ewwwww....

and that diagram is labelled wrong! The one labelled "ground wire from ECU" is a +12v connection, not ground!!!