zKars

No! really? You mean there may be a good reason I kept a set of flat tops? They aren't just to hold the bbq cover on in a wind storm? Cute story. I went to the site Blue posted and tried to buy two site glasses via their online store. $6.62 each. Got to the checkout. Guess how much the shipping quote was ? (CA to Alberta). $102 US..... I was about to throw my hands up and JB weld a scrap piece of clear plexi over a drilled hole when this revelation about site glasses on flat tops comes up. Nothing like OEM parts. Even though I might have JB weld that site glass to a round top fuel bowl Thank's capt'n!

Dave: Well DUH on me. I get the fluid level in both sides of the U tube part, it was the "just where are you hooking it up" part that eluded me. There are 3 nipples on an SU bowl of course not two, I neglected the one on the bottom as connection point for your site tube. Thanks for the clarification. This does remove the issue with some bowls not having the drain plug. I like it! Blue, the idea of a permanent site glass right in the side of the bowl! Now that's brilliant! Nice simple 1/4 NPT. The glass center seems to be about 3/8 in diameter, ~ 10 mm which is plenty to see the level. Just make sure it doesn't protrude too far into the bowl and interfere with the float. Install it on the engine side of the bowls or on the ends, so you still have a chance to see the level with the air cleaner in place.

Dave, Got a silly question about exactly where you connect you site glass. You say you remove the fuel hose from the bowl and connect to the nipple. I'm hoping you mean vent hose. I'de also really like to see a picture of this contraption of yours and how it measures fuel level from the vent line nipple. I can see a probe that touches the top of the float to give you an indication, but that's not the top of the fuel level. Please help the eternally confused. Thanks

Well, these are clearly 75-78 280z. Still need to see the exact build date from the drivers door plate please. Pictures of everything will be appreciated when you get a chance. Thanks!

Sorry to hear about your situation. Never good to have to put a hold on a dream. Just remember, this is NOT the end, just a set back. Generally, 240's are all the same, then 260's. early have same 'size" bits, but the vinyl patterns changed. Later 260 is just like 75 280. 280's have many differences from 240 especially in pattern and sizing. For example the 280 rear shock towers are very different from 240 (taller, wider). That also affects the plastic trim that fits above it. Some later 280's had rear deck changes that affect the rear finisher. What year is your interior from? Price will depend on condition. Detailed pictures will be required for us to make a determination. Butterscotch is desirable over the more common black, but white, blue and red are even more rare (in more or less that order). After you post pictures, take offers from interested parties. Good luck with the sale.

I found the drawing you used, its from Blue, in this post; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-technical-articles/44010-setting-fuel-level.html #8 Right next to it, he has the FSM drawing I used, showing the top reference at the 'roof' of the cover, but his drawing has it at the gasket.... Now we'll have to convince him to make an amendment to that thread. !! He's never going to let me forget this.... Now we need a better way to improve the tedious and gasket wasting method of endlessly adjusting float levels...

Dave: Excellent idea. I've made my own, and thought how I'de always wanted to offer the service, but well, you know... Glad you're taking it on. Many will benefit. One comment. I've been twiddling with several peoples SU's recently, and I've been using the standard 23mm down from the top of the float bowl measurement. I looked at the FSM this Morning to find the nifty picture you attached and noticed something about the reference for the "top" of the 23mm measurement that I didn't realize. I seems I've been doing this wrong. I've been measuring down from top of the cover at the gasket, not the internal "roof" as it were as the FSM drawing indicates. I think its only a 1mm or so, but still. Might want to amend your drawing to reflect this too. I'm going to review a few of the posts about this (there are many) and see what everyone else has been doing. Jim

Assuming rear quarters? Yes? If you actually have access to two NOS Nissan 240 rear quarters, just go buy them and be happy. The things that are different will be trivial to you or whoever is mounting them. If they are the early ones with no vent hole behind the rear quarter glass, 78100-E4600 and 78101-E4600, then they will not be suitable for you, as you will have to create the air vent holes to keep your HVAC air flow working. Since this is clearly too much trouble, please tell me where these are so I can get them. Wasting such precious early sheet metal on a mere 280 would be a crime...

Run a 10x1.25 die over that and see how it cleans up. Lots of lube while you do it, and careful when starting. I'm not very close, but I have a couple of those tall 280 insulators available if you get stuck. z240@shaw.ca if you need one.

BMP wins the prize. Now go put them back where they belong.

Just had a 73 in here with loose rear wheel movement. Turns out the bearings are fine, but someone, somewhere had them apart before and didn't torque them properly. I pulled it all apart, re-packed bearings, cleaned, reassembled with correct nut torque and resulting rotating torque, everything is now 100% play free.

One more round of my tried and true ideas to make it even easier. One the floor, jack up back end only and put jack stands under cross frame in front of rear wheels. Tires should be 2-4 inches or so off the ground when solid on stands. Nice and high for clearance and one other reason. Put floor jack under the diff. Its been mentioned about how hard it is to get the half shaft nuts at diff end and especialy the drive shaft nuts undone, right? So don't do it. Just remove half shafts from wheel end. Read on. Remove front cross member 4 bolts and two moustache bar nuts. drop diff on floor jack, pulling backwards when you get below the gas tank and pull drive shaft out of trans. With butt in the air like this (assuming level ground), nothing (not much) dribbles out of trans. Magic. Now undo nasty diff end and drive shaft bolts in the comfort of a nice open area of the shop you are safe warm and comfy. and can take big swings with hammers. Note this technique ignores the presence of an exhaust in the way. Depending, you can slip the diff sideways as you drop it and get the left halfshaft and M bar clear, or drop the exhaust first. Replace is opposite of remove. Oh, get fill plug out of new diff before its hard to get to back in the car! Happy diff swap!

Good thing you found that. Hate to have that wheel come off. The nut is missing, which means someone discovered this and put the drive shaft back on and prayed.... Lots of Z guys in Washington state to help. Haven't heard of this for a while, they seem to come in waves. Look out everyone... If you get stuck, I have some. PM me

I think you mean the plastic cap on the clutch reservoir... A whole new master is 30-40 at the parts store.. Not sure where to find just a cap except the junk yard or my backyard.. Kinda the same thing...

Out both carbs?!?! I think you forgot to put one on again after the gasket match. hahahah Vacuum leak is the place to look for sure. Snug them all down again.

I have a few 280 dizzies that are going to be raped for their VR sensors so the guts are going to be available. Surely one of the ones I have has a decent breaker plate. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pics.

I have a set of lightly used (and working!) DGV's available if you want some spare parts. No one seems to want them.... Wonder why.... PM me.

I think the ebay ad is for just one wheel. $2500.... Gulp.....

The brass filler ring tlorber used is not a requirement. Good idea though, but not critical. The most crucial part is getting the correct spacing of the end of the brake actuator rod to the piston face in new master. The hybridz thread A One Inch Diameter Brake Master Cylinder for the S30 Z Cars - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ details this process well. I do what to thank tlorber for his thread, as he pointed out a critical detail that I need badly on my car, ie the ability to reverse the bleeders to the other side of the WW master! My custom air box fitment is just a tad snug with the bleeders on the engine side. Thanks again!

Did you actually get a new (to you...) 15/16" master from Rock auto or is it just ordered? There have been plenty of discussions about them be NLA from most common vendors for some time. Interesting to find out if Rocky Horror Auto Show has some again. The wilwood 1" master (PN 260-8794 ) has become a accepted replacement since. There is a nice thread on Hybrid about installation methods and requirements. Best thing about them is that they are NEW, not some rebuilt god knows how many times POS .....

Si senior! Best Z trip ever. Little warm, but we survived. Looking foward to a repeat in 2014 to SD.

Hey! That georgeous orange 240 looks very familiar! Of all the shots to choose.... Cool!

And again my judgement of how much rust there can be in Datsun is totally under estimated. Dang. Nice hole... Yes, be VERY careful with tire clearance. Lowering the battery has been discussed here, hunt that thread down.

Grind until you have either clean metal or no metal. If you get the rust gone, and still have enough metal to retain strength in that area (a bit of a judgement call), then you don't have to replace it. If what's left is not there, or paper thin, then cut back until you get to "good" metal (again, judgement call.)and weld in new. Your battery tray area looks better than most. Bet you can grind those spot weld/overlap areas to clean steel and not have to replace much. Maybe a hole or two here and there. Happy Grinding!

Fuses blow due to a current load in excess of the fuse rating. This is a problem with a something on the circuit drawing more current than it should, like a short circuit to ground or a series of corroded connections. No fuse upgrade will solve it, you have to find the cause of the problem. The fuse is just a safety valve. This is a very common fuse to get overheated. Start by thoroughly cleaning the fuse connection holders, then work backwards cleaning all bulb sockets on all lights that this fuse powers, and their associated connections. Bad connections = resistance = heat generation. Happy scrubbing.