zKars

Wow, another "I ain't not never seed nuttin' like that b'for" moment. I'd swear those were factory looking spot welds holding them brackets. No average anybody would use welds like that to add brackets like that. Even the captured nut in the center looks factory. If its a square nut tacked on its four corners, that would just about settle it. Please, some worthy Z historian chime in and tell us "yup, seen those a thousand times on Z's from...." or the like and put us out of our questioning misery! And CanTechZ, I just love your brackets too. Some real engineering there with those interlinked springs. Vibration dampers??

I actually use two BlueSea panels. One is a high current 4 fuse panel then 7748l SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems This panel gives me the main high current alternator output fuse and whatever I want eventually that's I want high current protected. Then I have a 12 fuse distribution panel with ground bus terminals, the 5026. ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems I cut through the bus bar on the back of the 5026 somewhere along its length based on how many of the 12 circuits I wanted IGN/Acc and how many Constant 12, then ran a fat 8 gauge to the bus bar that I isolated. Interestingly, I kept the stock fuse block (well, the MSA equivalent) to get me enough fuses for the total system. This puts all the new components on the new fuse panel and leaves most of the stock fuses for stock things, with the exception of Head lights and HVAC which are on the new panel. Now all this and the bank of relays for all the new stuff (fans, light relays, HVAC etc) and wiring connections to everything are mounted on and around the passenger foot well area

Great pictures for comparison Jim. I betting the incorrect MSA connectors are actually just butt splice connectors, where you were supposed to cut your old spade connectors off your old box wiring and crimp the ends of the resulting pigtail wires into those butt splices. No doubt the instructions to do that were MIA.... Sourcing those large spade connectors is tough. I haven't found them yet. Anyone?

Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Steering Gear (Rack & Pinion Type) Much better pictures and part number listings. Courtesy is only showning the bearing (#10) as being available anymore.... No big surprise. I'll call Nissan Canada and see what I can dig up. Nope sorry 48127-78500 and 48128-78500 are not available here either.

The MSA boxes are very good quality. They have no provision for the OEM lids to fit however. The curcuit ID's are printed on the circuit board so the lid is not required to remember what's what. I have BlueSea stuff in my Z, exceptionally good quality. Using the right one gives you not only replacements for OE curcuits but room to grow for future additions. Get the 5032. ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems then you don't have to go hacking up the bus bar yourself. One side for IGN/ACC only, the other Hot all the time. Simple. Go get a couple of 6 pin connector blocks from OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha and make an lovely plug and play replacement. I would stay away from used OE fuse boxes.

I'm on side with Darrel. I'll be you don't have proper push rod engagement into the master. You seem to have done everything else correctly.

Kerrigan, I have a bunch of old fuel pumps. I can scavenge any parts you need. Not sure how many Nikki or other. Let me know and I'll look. Just took a stock 10/70 engine apart that had one.

Just for clarification here for the correct Stagg part numbers (from hybridz thread about this) New S30 Shock and Spring Option - Page 2 - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ #552204 fronts for 240-280z and come with both gland nuts. #552205 240Z rears #552206 260-280Z rears As far as the harsh ride goes, do you get a bone jarring CRASH when you go over a bump? I'd be checking to see how much shock tube is showing with the car at static ride height with you in it. Maybe you're bottom the strut out. This is not an uncommon issue with shortened springs.

Depending on the year, the hazard flasher could be on driver side or on the passenger side. I believe if you have a tin bracket where a few relays are mounted on the passenger side kick panel up beside the glove box, then the round hazard flasher can is attached to that bracket. If you don't have that relay panel, then its on the drivers side kick panel all by itself. Please correct me if I have this confused. I notice the wires and connectors attached to that flasher in your picture are not the stock items. I'd follow them up into the harness and confirm the quality of their connection to the stock harness.

Whoa boys. We don't even know what year of Z we are dealing with and we are telling him to go check a fuel pump relay. There are no fuel pump relay interactions until at least the first FI cars. And only some 72-73's had an electric pump in the back, and none of that wiring involved a relay, let alone a oil pressure switch! Blackbirdpilot please update at least your first post with your Z details first, THEN we'll put you on the right path.

The N47 head also has no provision to mount the mechanical fuel pump. Well you can, but it you have to machine out the port on the side of the head. The three bolt/stud holes are there but none of the N47 heads I've seen have the opening into the head. Perhaps this is the time to consider a low pressure electric pump.

Good, now you know for sure you have an M10 threads. How they got that way, well that's another mystery. The shift rod in your picture sure looks like a regular old Datsun shifter. I wonder if someone cut the old shifter shorter, and since it thickens as it gets closer to the base, they found it was easier to put M10 threads on it. Sounds like you have to convert the threads in the knobs you want to use to M10 threads. I could send you another shifter rod with the usual threads on it....

No stock Nissan S30 or S130 shifter that i know of has anything but 8x1.25 threads. Get a thread gauge and figure out what you have. A picture of this shifter rod would be nice too. Maybe get a 8mm nut from, hmmm... what's handy and easy to get to.... a nut from the brake master cylinder where it bolts to the booster? See if it fits on the shifter. Then you have a known quantity for comparison.

Finally got it home today. Thanks to persimmon240 for swamping for me. We were totally spoiled getting it on the trailer... Tomorrow starts the tear down fun!

Read the MSDS at zmax itself www.zmax.com/documents/msds_105_avblend.pdf There is a single ingredient listed. Mineral Oil, >99% Now is "Mineral oil" a generic term, or is there a single or any number of compositions for Mineral Oil.... You decide: Mineral oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I would try to beg/borrow/buy a tail pipe AFR gauge and determine if the bog is the result a lean condition or not. That will give a reason to pursue fuel or spark with better confidence. Feels like either weak spark/bad plugs or fuel metering problem to me.

QUOTE=John Coffey;462763]About 6 years ago I offered a complete undercar fastener kit (yellow zinc-chromate, all new parts) sourced from Wurth. Class 8.8 and 10.9 fasteners as appropriate for the application. No takers. I was told it was too expensive by everyone interested who felt $250 was the most anyone should charge for nuts and bolts. Ah yes, it has been proven many times that what "should" be done and what "can" be done are separated by cheap Datsun people. Don't make me repeat the copper wire invention story yet again... Somewhere on this forum is a thread that contains a spreadsheet of all the suspension and drive line bolt specs that I may have contributed to. I should likely update it with the trans bolt sizes too. Then anyone is welcome to go shopping and see just what it takes to buy all those bolts... Now where is that spread sheet again..... Ah yes, here. 240z_hardware.pdf[

The good news here is that it really doesn't matter if your timing is exactly to spec or your idle sf 750 or 785. Tune it so it runs nice for you (starts easy, idles nice, gets the power and drivability you like). There are plenty of interacting parameters that make getting eaxact factory specs quite tricky with 40+ year old parts. What matters more than anything is that your distributor advance mechanism works well and as expected, which is a another way of saying "to your liking and engine performance design". You'd be hard pressed to tell if your car had 5 or 10 initial advance, but you will loose power if you don't get all the advance you can handle (engine design and specifics of your gasoline determined, but 35deg total-ish) by 3000RPM -ish and that it comes in a nice linear-ish and consistent manner from idle up to that RPM, with load compensation via the vacuum input, which of course requires a car with no vacuum 'irregulaties'. That's up to the dizzy mechanical and vacuum advance and the overall condition of the distributor and engine. There are many options to get the advance curve you want/desire. Most involve money.

Oh sure, I just passed through Cashmere last week on the way back from ZCON. Why didn't you tell me you need Trans mount bolts? I could have brought you some nice OEM ones.... Best of all I finally found out about "Aplets and Cotlets". Totally mystery to me up to that point. Now I'm completely hooked. I'll mail you two bolts/nuts in exchange for a "care package" from that store! K? (I can just hear the frantic googling "ap and cot is a what now?" )

"Bidding starts at $6k" and the bidding ends at $0.6K.... who says the progression has to be positive?

I beg to differ about idle adjustment. The top center idle adjust is used only during the high-RPM (3K or so) carb balance check after setting idle RPM and balance using the idle screws on the individual carbs and inter-acting linkage. It does make it tougher to set your idle when that's all you want to do, as adjusting each carb's idle also affects balance. Whatever works for you though. And I see 750 RPM @ 5 deg as the idle spec in the '72 FSM for USA and Canada spec cars.

I can tell you the bolts are 12mm x 1.25 threads. Length you can get by measuring the distance between the outside of the on-car flanges and adding an 1" or so. Use the strongest (highest grade) bolts you can get like grade 8 (SAE) or 10-9 (JIS). The stock bolts use a self locking nut. Just to be clear, the ZX line started in 79. Did you mean 78Z or 79ZX?

Congrats to the bidder who won them just now! $75.01 got 'em.

Wow! plainly with that amount of support and cars (and hence people), there should be LOTS of help putting on the 2016 convention, right? (he said from 3000 miles away...)

I swear that blue square thing upper right where the battery should be is a modified tupperware container. Likely storage for water or methonal injection. Well, at least it has a life time garantee!