beandip

Send me a PM with the info and I will take look no problem . Gary

Sounds like the heater problems are due to the cables becoming disconnected. There is a water shut off valve up under the dash on the passenger side up on the firewall . If it is closed you will have zero heat. Run on problem could be from too rich a setting on the carbs and a timing issue . check the timing and set a 10 deg BTDC , and the next gas put hi-test . It could also be carbon causing the run on , the hi-test may help . There is a reverse light switch for the back up lights , I don't know your trans but it should be down on the trans . The heating could also be a result of a retarded timing . By the way I think the color is awesome . Gary

First of all the carbs shown are Round top SUs not Weber's . If you look where the top radiator hose connects to the engine . this is where the thermostat is located and also the sending unit for your temp gage. There should be a single wire connected to a spade connector there . This may be your problem with the temp gage . If I understand you correctly , when you first start the engine in the morning it has a tendency to flood because it is running rich ? It sound like either the mixture settings are adjusted to rich , or you are leaving the choke pulled back in the rich position for too long after the engine has warmed up . A too rich of a condition can also be caused by the float level in the carb. being set too high , or the wrong needles installed in the carbs. Is it possible to ask your friend and or his dad , what needles are in the carbs. ? And maybe you could ask them to show you how to adjust the carbs. There is a step by step on how to adjust them in the tech forum , if you wish to try it yourself . Gary

If there are no markings then it is a aftermarket part . The proper module has two spade connector's on the top , there are two small ones that connect to the coil inside the dist . That's it . The wrong module has more large connector's. Be vary sure that you connect the leads properly or you can ruin the module .

As John said the coolant in the top tank of the radiator would look like a oily slimy mess. I believe the cap should be rated to 13 lb. pressure . If you are concerned about the coolant , drain it and replace it with a 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze . Then you will be set for the summer and next winter. This should be done every couple of years any way . When you drain the old coolant check it for oil , it will rise to the top of the liquid . If there is oil in it , then you will need to take the car to a mechanic .

On mt '73 240 , I am running SUs , actually the engine is a '82 ZX . The only emission related item on the engine is the PVC valve. That's it. In addition to the round tops you should run a '70--72 air cleaner . It will have the proper places to connect the float overflow lines and the valve cover vent hose , plus the fresh air supply hose to the fuel tank. Also don't forget to plug the outlet that supplied clean air to the air pump , I simply used a cork from the inside. The air cleaner has air horns that are tuned , by there length , for performance at the factory . You will need the linkage that runs between the carbs from the 240 . The 260 part is too short. Where the vacuum lines were attached to the balance tube that are no longer needed , just plug them . Brass plugs are available at Home Depot or most hardware stores. You need the thicker spacer that installs between the carb and the intake manifold also. You stated that you were going to rebuild the 3 screws. Be careful what you use to clean the carbs especially around the locating ''pins'' that align the dome to the carb base. This in turn aligns the vacuum piston and needle to the nozzle. This is a critical alignment. One more thing , don't mix the parts from one car to another especially the domes and vacuum pistons and nozzles. These are fitted at the factory for that one carburetor. Hope this helps . Gary

Is the ignition that you are having trouble with on your 280 ZX ?

Ed , since I have covered much of my underside with POR , and as you know . It is so darn hard to scratch the por to provide tooth for anything to stick . What do you think of using some Ticoat primer on the POR first then the undercoat of your choice. I have most of a qt. of Ticoat left over from when I finished the engine bay and shot the rest of the Z . I think if I do use the primer I would brush it on , because of the over spray would be hard to controll .

Depending on the action of the engine , will effect what is going on with the breather from he valve cover . It is true the PCV at the end of the hose connecting to he bottom of the intake , draws fumes from the crankcase. However when the throttle is opened the vacuum drops and if there is blow by from the cylinders it will come out of the breather . the breather should be connected to the air cleaner box. This way any fumes will be burned by the engine and if any air is need , not likely , for the block it will be filtered air . It is normal to have some discharge form the breather . However when an engine becomes tired the emissions will increase . My 2 cts. Gary

Welcome to the club . Best of luck in your quest. Gary

I think Summit pays the shipping too .

Found it LOOK UNDER ARTICLES FROM OUR MEMBERS GO TO PAGE 3 AND SCROLL DOWN TO ADJUSTING SUs If you go to the bottom of this page to the forum jump look in there for technical articles then to articles written by members on page 3 scroll down to the SU thread

Gary S. I will contact you with a PM

When one of these engines is shut down there is always two valves open to the outside air. This allows some moisture to enter the cylinders and can rust things. The valve stems can and will also rust where outside air contact them in a open position . If they stick and the engine is turned over valve damage and or damage to he pistons can result. A car that has sat for 10 yrs needs the entire braking system evaluated for safety . At the vary least the brake fluid bled. If this was in a climate other than cal where it is relatively dry then what vrito stated would likely be needed . And it may in this case , time will tell.

Most likey the brake fluid has jelled and the wheel cylinders have rusted and need replacing. The rubber brake lines should be looked at and flexed to see if there are any signs of cracking , at the vary least. I would replace them . The fuel tank is likely to have varnish and crud at the least, and likely to have rust . Even in California and in a garage. I doubt the floors and such would have suffered much from the length of storage in the cal climate. I agree all the fluids need to be drained and replaced . Hoses replaced on the engine and heater. As for the engine , If it was mine I would pull the spark plugs and oil the cylinders with about two tablespoons full of oil in each plug hole . Remove the valve cover and pour oil over the valve train. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE STARTER. leave the plugs out and use a socket and wrench to turn the engine over several times watching the valves to see if any are sticking and if the engine is frozen in place. If no valves are stuck or sticking and the engine will turn over by hand freely , install a fresh battery and the plugs . If the fuel supply is clean and the fuel lines under the SUs are good , with the air cleaner on I use starter fluid in the intake and start the engine. Once the engine starts keep the RPM up to from 1500 to 2000 , do not allow to idle , you want the oil to lube everything . Watch the temp and look for any leaks . It is important to keep a watch on the carb overflows to be sure the float shut off valves are not stuck open , this comes under the watch for leaks , part. All the best to you and enjoy the ride. Gary:)

Just for clairification . the only difference between a F-54 turbo and a F-54 na block is the NA engine has flat top pistons . The blocks are the same. The turbo engine has a P-90 or P-90a head and he NA engine uses a P- 79 head. All stock L-28 280 engines have dished pistons.

Welcome Randy good to have you aboard . I am in the Portland Or , area. '73 240/280 . Gary

Rick , HAPPY EASTER TO YOU AND YOURS AS WELL. AND ALL MAMBERS . :laugh: :laugh:

How much did you drill the hole too large ? Another thing how deep did you go into the head ? I think the best advise to you is to take the car to a good shop and have them have a look at it . You are more than likely going to need to pull the head . Worse case . I am hoping the '' oil '' you are seeing is really unburned fuel , and that you didnt drill into a oil gallery . Not knowing which bolts you actually drilled into I don't know. A good machine shop will be able to remove the studs and save the head if you haven't damaged it too badly. If the head must come off , you may be able to save some cash by pulling the head your self. If this is the case BE SURE TO KEEP TENTION ON THE TIMING CHAIN. Good luck with this . You need a shop manual . Gary

The fact that you are showing a rich mixture with a color tune even thou you are showing a lean condition. I don't understand . Also you asked about adding a electric fuel pump for more pressure . If your pump is making 3 to4 psi. that is plenty . Providing it can maintain some pressure at speed . You don't really need a lot of volume . Before adding a pump check all filters and supply lines .

The lean cylinders and if they were 1,2 and 3 or 4,5 & 6 then you could suspect a mixture problem from one carb . Tossing in the odd cylinder changes my thinking on this . However have you checked the fuel level in the float bowl on the front carb ? Also there are screens installed in the inlet of the carbs that could be clogged . Remove them there not needed , one could be blocked . Taking a compression test is good advise especially if this started happening after you adjusted the valves . Too tight of adjustment could cause a lean showing , also burn valves . You have great compression at 170 and being they are all close as you say is even better . Gary