beandip

Buy a 280 radiator . I just installed one in my 240 and it is a three core instead of two , also it is longer . My 240 radiator has different shaped top tank than the 280 so I needed to lower it 2'' to clear the hood . You won't have that problem . I just mention it for those with 240 Z . GARY

It should merely unplug from the wire loom and the bulb should just pop out of the holder. When you find a new gage , before you install it . Open it up and paint the inside of the ''can'' of the gage with white paint . You will see that the factory applied a little paint to reflect light , but if you take this a little farther and paint the rest , you will be amazed the difference. Don't' use silver , use white it is the better of the two. I imagine that there is a member willing to part with a temp gage. Otherwise go to the bone yard or watch craigslist or eBay. Gary:laugh:

I would like to bring up a point that was touched on . Bondo/body filler. When you are sanding/preping the car with a DA , and you come across body filler . If you are confident that it was applied properly , just continue on . However if there is ANY question in your mind as to the condition of the panel. Or if the filler may have been used to fill a HOLE/HOLES drilled through the metal to pull out a dent. Take the filler off and see what you have under it. Body filler will wick moisture in from the back of the panel and will allow rust to start and continue under it on the front side. Holes must be either Braised , leaded, welded or soldered , to seal them . Then the filler can be applied over a roughened surface that allows the filler a grip on the metal. Do not sand the bare metal smooth before filler/bondo. That lessens the ability for it to adhere to the metal . When we worked on my Z preping it for paint , I found a thick layer of bondo on the rear valance . I had removed the tank so I looked up under the valance . It looked like spaghetti sticking out of the metal . All total there were about 30 small holes drilled in the panel . Who ever did this then pushed the bondo through to fill the holes and finished the panel. I found rust all along the line of holes , every one and about 3'' wide , after I DA'd the bondo off.

Paul you dug up this old thread now I have to admit to 67 ! We have had a couple of gettogethers , in the past 3 years . Now that it is summer , Ha Ha if the sun starts shinning . Lets think of a cruse. One thing , there is a gathering at PIR on Wednesday early evening every week. Last week was the first of the year and there was at least 600 custom and/or rods there . Escanlon and I had the only two Z there . It was a great time , maybe more of the Z drivers will join us , it is lots of fun . Wed 4:00 till dark. cost $5.00 to cruse in and show your car and the money goes to the children of the community . Gary :laugh:

Paul, Thanks vary much . This post should be in the Technical section. Other wise it will be berried in a day or so. Gary

Escanlon is right you may have plugged the new cat. As others have said before use some regular grade gas , take the car out on a hi way an punch it . Drive it at hi way speed at least and take it for a ride for a hour or so if you can , at speed. This may blow out some carbon and may heat the cat so it can do it's job . Hopefully . The hardest thing on a engine is to keep running it with out warming it completely . You never get the engine up to proper heat and moisture condenses inside the block , sulfuric acid is formed and it will destroy the engine . It takes about 20 to 30 minutes to completely bring the engine and oil to temp. The temp gage will show normal a long time before the block and oil is actually at temp .

I agree with arne . This is the reason I chose to park in the riffraff area. To me requiring a $30.00 preregistration 30 days in advance to show the car or $20.00 to be in the popularity contest . For a show like this is too much to ask. For me it is the principle of the thing. Make it $10.00 across the board and have categories that represent the different cars in fair comparisons. I was there Sunday only but from what I saw of the items for sale it was pathetic. I did enjoy the show and there were many beautiful cars there . It was great to visit and put a face to the names I have met here on this web site. I did expect to see a larger participation since it was all Datsuns not just Zs . The location is great , having the shade was vary nice . Gary

Also while you are there repack the wheel bearings and be sure to use wheel bearing grease for disk brakes wheels.

I dident strip. I used a DA and sanded and prepped . Some places needed to go to bare metal but not the whole car . If you can get down to good paint. There is no need to strip. This will save a hell of a lot of work. Gary

I think escanlon has used one of these kits with good results in the past. You might give him a P M and ask . Gary

GOAT ?? I THOUGHT THAT WAS THE ENGINE ! Really looks like you are doing ok . Keep up the good work.

THE CARBS LOOK TOO SMALL. WHERE DID YOU FIND THESE ?

jetjoc , Welcome to the club . Since you already have the Z virus there is no point in warning you. Sounds like you have a handle on Zs but if there is any way we can be of help give us a shout. I was on the ferry boat cruse , were you ? Canby bound on Sunday . Gary

BD , Congrats. I haven't been following this thread and just read your last post. You will find the POR to be much harder a finish than powder coat . Plus you would have to bake the entire car to powder coat the floor. POR is great stuff , however , if you haven't used it before , remember what I said about a hard finish. It is even difficult to sand . I do NOT recommend that you use it on a surface that you are intending on painting over for a finish . Like a fender or hood . It is just too hard to sand and there is no need. I used it extensively in my Z and am vary happy with the result. I did my floor pans inside and out and shot it into the frame rails and every cavity also on the inner fenders and fender wells. It is VARY important to use the products they recommend for preparation . If not prepped correctly it will peal off like a decal. I used it in my engine bay , but sprayed ti-coat primer over it . It is the only primer that will stick to it . Unless you prime over it while it is still tacky . It is great that you were able to find such a great car like this . I hope you took pictures while retrieving it from the desert . I found my Z next to a barn , but didnt take any pictures , and I am sorry for that. If I can help in any way , send me a PM Gary:rambo:

There is a member on this web site that turns in the 12s with his 240 running SUs and street tires. You did say stage III cam , so you would most likely have such a over lap that the vacuum dependent SUs for the street could be Balky . If you are planing a street driven car . I think you might look into the cam a little more , for drivability reasons , at normal driving speeds . So much depends on what you intend for the Z . Such a hi-reving cam will kick the power band up from 3K to 6500 .

enigma is right . Here is one easy way to find TDC on #1 . remove the plug on #1 and turn the engine over with a socket on the crank pully nut. With your finger on the plug hole when the piston comes up on compression stroke you will feel the pressure. Then look at the position of the rotor . It is pointing to #1 then follow the sequence of the fireing order connecting the wires. You most likely want to look at the plugs any way . Congrats. on the new Z . Gary:cheeky:

By ''STONE '' IT IS SLANG FOR S L O W . At best it will be like having three passengers of over 200 lbs in the car + your self. This is one of the reasons they bored and stroked the 240 engine to make the 280 . Because of additional weight and emissions requirements . Not meaning it wouldn't be a fun Z but not what you are striving for. Judging from the up grades you have done to the damaged car. Another 240 is a better choice. My 2 cts.

In the long run you would be much better off finding another 240 . Even if you do all the work the car will be a stone and difficult to sell some day .

turn on the ignition switch and ground the wire that is connected to the sending unit. This should peg the needle at 70 . This is with the engine not running. If the needle still is on zero , either there is a brake in the wire or a fuze has blown . If the wiring is good and the fuzes all test good , don't just look at them . Test them . then it is a sending unit . Buy a sending unit from Nissan , not a aftermarket one.

RAIN ! YOU WANT TO TALK RAIN ? TRY 33 DAYS IN A ROW AND 50+ INCHES A YEAR . I know what you are saying , it gets old . Especially in the spring after we have a few beautiful sunny days. I just put a hundred miles on in my 240 in the driving rain a couple of days ago and yesterday spent a couple of hours cleaning her . She is ready for the Canby show , if I can make it. I just need to touch up the polishing on the valve cover. While my Z was apart , I did spend some time just sitting in it , mostly by my self and some fun times with my granddaughter. She just turned 4 yesterday. She helps me wash the Z too. So If you cannot drive the car enjoy it even if means just looking at the great styling and shape of this classic beauty. Just let it soak in that she is yours. Gary

If you look at the cover of the Motorsport anniversary issue catalog , its the one that is all yellow gold in color. In the center of the cover is a yellow 240 . It as a set of the period turbine wheels , I have the identical set . They have 40 veins and the veins run all the way to the hub. There not a easy wheel to clean , only takes a little time . Depending on what your intentions are in ''cleaning'' the wheels. I cleaned my wheels and used a tooth bush and small wire brush then used lacquer thinner and painted them . Of course I polished the spokes and rim first and masked all. I sprayed them with black metallic. Now I nearly wipe them with a small sponge , however it just takes time to do each of the spaces. I think it is worth the effort . I have about 3500 miles on them since I did the paint and have driven in the rain as well as the dry. They still look like when I first painted them and I have received many compliments . Gary:rambo: If I wanted the easy way out I wouldent be driving a 33 year old car .

Welcome to the club . Sounds like a good potential car for a great driver. As to the rust , there is a place Zedd Findings that has floor pans and rocker for that Z , if needed . If you weld sheet metal or know some one that does , this will save you some big bucks . Rust repair is spendy to have done. Being that the car runs . My advice to you is to thoroughly check out the brakes , first thing . Change the fuel filters and fluids. I would replace the hoses and V belt. Be sure the car is safe and roadworthy tires and all. Then drive her , see how you like the car and how it handles . If you can, drive it all summer before you start taking her apart on any major project. You will get infected with the Z virus by then and there is no cure ! This way when you start on a major project like suspension or what ever you will be able to keep your eye on the prise. My Z was down for almost 3 years , and believe me , sometimes my motivation faltered some. But I reduced my 240 to a rolling shell . I am 99% done now and I am happy with the result. I have seen a hundred well meaning Z buyers , start right away and dive into God knows what only to sell a formally nice car as a basket case for pennies on the dollar 1 or 2 years later. My friend has 2 he bought recently . One for $500. and the other $700. One was a 2nd owner car with vary low mileage . Both are running and drivable now . One only took a part of a day to reassemble the front end and get the engine running. We are here to help so ask any questions . Gary:p