z-ya

Get yourself a volt meter or tester and find out where the break is. Did you check all your fuses? Did you check the fused links under the hood? Sounds like you may have blown a fuse or a fused link. Also, double check you stereo, or better yet, just disconnect it until you get the car started. Pete

What calendar software are you using on this site? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/calendar.php Thanks, Pete

What are the fused links on the side of the realy box for, and what is the amp rating. Anyone? Pete

Actually, the 77 280Z stock ignition is pretty decent. For the most part the OEM parts are better than any aftermarket parts (except maybe an MSD). Even the stock coil is quite good. The only OEM upgrade I would do is the D6K8 distributor w/ E12-80 ign. module. This module has more output current capability, and the D6K8 distributor has a better advance curve. I've measured 165HP and 175ft/lbs at the wheels of the track 240Z I built an engine for. The ignition system is all OEM parts. I think spending a lot on an MSD with a stock engine is a waste of money. I think just upgrading to better OEM parts is easier, and the performance is just as good. I may put an MSD on this car just to see if there is any difference. Details are below: Ignition: BPR6ES NGK plugs NGK wires 280Zx coil (used) Nissan cap and rotor (used) D6K8 distributor w/ E12-80 ign. module (used) Timming set to 28 deg max advance Engine: F54 block - flattops (rebuilt, std bore) N47 Head - stock cam, no port work, intake manifold and header port matched 6:1 header, 2.5" exhaust with supertrapp 60mm throttle body Megasquirt EFI Pete

I understand what the large ones with the covers do, but whjat about the ones on the side of the relay box? I have a 78' that I would like to replace the fused links with auto-resetable ciurcuit breakers. Are the currents correct in this photo? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6208 I thought they were like this: headlights 20A ignition 30A igntion relay 30A alternator 60A

We are conducting motorsport polls to determine how many people race their Z Cars. Each poll has two parts, one to determine the serverity of the addiction, the other to find out what vintage Z Car you race, and its level of modification. After completing the polls, if you wouldn't mind sending me an email or PM with your email address, and more information about you Z car, it would be much appreciated. The results and a racer profile for each driver will be created on the ZCCA website. Below are links to the different polls: Autocross, How often? Autocross, What Z Car? Road Race, How often? Road Race, What Z Car? Drag Race, How often? Drag Race, What Z Car? Thanks! Pete

Hi All, We are in the process of updating the ZCCA website, and we are looking for content contributors. I'm responsible for the motorsports section. So anyone that would like to contribute, or know of some good sources for Z related motorsport history, events, tech articles, please let me know. Thanks, Pete President, Z Car Club of New England.

240ZX, Do you mind me asking your waist size? I've been looking at the Sprint seats too. I'm about a 38 waist. Pete

If you end up getting a set, let us know how well they fit, and how much headroom you end up with. Thanks, Pete

Just bolt it on there (wit a new head gasket of course!) they are the same from a casting point of view. I've seen at least 3 77-78' L28s, and none of them had cam oilers, they were all internal. Pete

Are L24 and L28(non 2+2) Flywheels the Same? If not, what are the differences? Thanks, Pete

I like the BRE, TexaZ, an the rising sun. Here is a pick of the track car I've been working on. It's got the "20 footer" body work. Paint was applied by a pro. Not totally correct, but I think it came out pretty good. We are in the process of putting coil overs in it to correct the ride height. Pete http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/01-2004/DSC00002.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/01-2004/DSC00001.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/01-2004/DSC00003.jpg

I think all 280ZXs after 1980 used an F54 block. The NA 280ZXs had flat top pistons, and either a P90 or a P79 head. The turbo engines had special dished pistons (not the garden variety), and only the P90 or P90A head. The F54 block has extra reinforment between cylinder bores for better rigidity. Does you F54 have dished on flat tops? If it has dished, it is a turbo motor. If the cylinders have little wear (any ridge at the top of the cylinder?), and you are going to turbo charge it, then you should just re-ring and intstall fresh bearings. Your compression ratio will be around 7.5:1. Good for a turbo. With flat tops the CR would be close to 8.8:1, which is too high for forced induction. If you are building an NA motor, pick up some flat top pistons, and either an N42 (square port) or an n47 (round port) head. You'll get close to 10:1 compression ratio with a slight overbore. You'll need to run super, but you'll have a spunky little motor in your Z! Pete

Hey, thanks for the response. Never figured it out. Everything on the strut is stock except the springs and struts (Koni adjustable). Yes, we did add large plates to strenthen the sway bar mount. We also have a 1" sway bar on the front with hiem (sp?) joint style end links. The rear sits too high also, so I am perplexed st this point. We have a solution though, COILOVERS! We are starting the swap this weekend. Really weird, I ran these same springs on my 240 with Knoi inserts, and they were close to 2" lower than stock, and way too stiff for the street. Here are some more recent photos: http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/01-2004/DSC00001.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/01-2004/DSC00002.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/01-2004/DSC00003.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/01-2004/DSC00004.jpg Pete

Short story: I had these linear rate spring in my 72' 240Z, and the ride height was about 2" lower than stock. I took them out a few years ago and put in Eibachs for a smoother ride. A few people in my local club are building a track car, and I had these springs, so we put them in. The problem is that the ride height is way too high (about an inch higher than stock). The club car is a 73' body, with 72' struts. We have Koni strut cartriges installed. Any help appreciated. Pete

GTZZZ, you are correct. A short block is from the oil pan to the cylinder mounting surface (deck). It includes pistons, rods, crank, etc. A long block is a complete engine, except for any external accesories (alternator, PS pump, AC compressor, etc.). The easiest way to do the swap is find a good running 280ZX turbo, that may be rusted out, or damaged. From it you can take the engine, the wiring harness, fuel pump, ECU, and anything else that might be usefull (tranny, rear end, wheels). I did this swap on a freinds car, and he hasn't stop smiling since the day he first drove it. You need some electrical skills to do the swap, but it is more than worth the effort. Pete

Just find a low mileage 280ZX turbo donar car. You want the whole EFI setup too. I've seen L28ET short blocks with over 100k miles put 350HP to the wheels (with a lot of head work, bit turbo, etc, etc.). The short blocks are very durable.

I'm interested too. I'm looking for some inexpensive L28 flat top pistions. Anyone?

You can't just put the LD28 crank in without changing rods and pistons. The pin height of the L28 pistons is too low, yeilding too tall a deck height. You need to use L24 rods, and KA24 pistons (240SX). And then you need to mill the top of the KA24 pistons to give an acceptable deck height . Press the L31 button and you will see what I mean. The deck height should be close to zero. A stock L28 has a deck height of + 0.03mm. If you keep the deck height close to stock, you won't have interference problems. Pete

Putting a P79 head on your 78' motor will lower the CR to about 7.6:1. Great if you are planning on turbocharging it, not so great for an NA setup. The best, but not the easiest way to increase CR is to change your pistons to flat tops. This will give you about 9.8:1 with the N47 head. No shaving or tower shimming needed. If you increase the CR, you will also need to add some way to adjust the fuel enrichment. One way is to add an adustable fuel pressure regulator. The older L-Jetronic EFI cannot compenstate automatically for engine changes like modern EFI systems can. Pete

I would use the F54 blcok, and pick up an N42 head. If you have the P90, you can sell it easy to a turbo guy. If you can't find an N42, then look for an N47. They are the same but the N47 has round exhasut port liners. N47s are cheap and easy to find. You can run 10:1 on the street. I know someone running 10.5:1 without problems. Yes, you must only run 93 octane or better fuel. The timing needs to be set correctly, and a high performance ignition and coild should also be used. Pete

Unless you have shaved the head, and shimmed the cam towers, your CR will be around 8.5:1. If you use an N42 or N47 head, you CR will be around 9.8:1. Pete

I built a 9.8:1 L28 using an F54 bock and an N47 head last winter. It's going in a track car I'm building with some freinds. I'll let everyone know how it performs. I didn't do anything to the liners, just left them in there. I am using a round port header on it. Basically, I didn't use the N47 by choice, but when you are given a rebuilt N47, and a nice round port 6-1 header, it's an easy decision to make. Pete

That's the 510 rear suspension with an R200 LSD installed. The magazine got the pictures in the wrong order. Pete