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Received a package today with a couple gems inside. For the last month or so I have been chasing a lean condition just off idle on my 240 motor. Cold it was hard to start even while being choked, a condition I have not experienced since purchasing my Ztherapy carbs in early 2001. Trying all of the normal problem solving I finally did the “starting fluid test” and found that when I it sprayed on the rear side of the back carb the idle was effected. Closer examination I discover the shinny silver cap over the throttle shaft was missing and covering the hole definitely changed the idle. Engine ran good at 2500+ RPM. Steve at ZT called me back and we discussed the issues and he advised me the throttle shaft seal was probably blown out. (A backfire can do that). He offered check the carbs if I would send them to him. That day I UPS them off to him and in less that two weeks I received a package back. My 20 year ZT old carbs look brand new and based on the cost of a ZT rebuild kit the price was a steal. They are one of those companies that you can’t say enough good thing about. THANK YOU STEVE .

Guestimates: MOR - More Or Less ROM = Rough Order of Magnitude SWAG = Swinging Wild arse Guess A “little” a “lot” are relative terms. To me, it is worth a lot - how many people have $30,000.00 in savings? For that matter how many people can plunk down $30K for a fun purchase? Regardless, the fact is you did the research and now both you and your Parents are in a better position - should any need to actually sell the Z arise. That's a Good Thing.

Was it Country music?

A few years ago when I was looking for a 5-speed transmission for my 1976 280Z project, I searched and searched for photos of the early ("wide ratio") and later ("close ratio") versions side-by-side. I never really found any, but I did acquire one of each, and thought I'd post pictures of them for easy comparison. The main things to notice are all on the rear extension housing: The wide ratio gearbox has two exhaust hanger ears on the rear extension housing, the close ratio has only one (on the driver's side). The wide ratio has a dust collar/shroud surrounding the end of the tail piece, the close ratio does not. The close ratio box has a cover for the reverse loickout mechanism on the left side, the wide ratio does not. On the close ratio, the screw that secures the speedometer drive assembly to the rear extension housing is located at 6 o'clock (toward the bottom of the transmission), on the wide ratio the screw is at 12 o'clock (toward the top). The striking rod guide (where the shift lever attaches) is slightly wider/taller on the close ratio than on the wide ratio. Overall, the wide ratio rear extension housing has s smoother, more rounded appearance.

so i installed the original keyosan denki fuel pump i picked up. i primed the fuel system the way i did before by blowing back on the return line to fill up the fuel filter. started up and drove it around the block for couple minutes and let it idle for about 20 minutes. shut the car off let it sit for 3-4 hours went back outside and the fuel filter was still filled with fuel. started it up no problems starting. we will see if it stays that way while i’m gone for a few days

I certainly don't feel bad. I didn't like this car from the beginning. BaT has an interesting feature where you can track sale prices over a number of years and the Datsun 240Z has a very distinct line of average sale prices to help you determine "the market". Type in "Datsun 240Z" in the BaT search bar and you will get a graph. Each bullet on the graph links to the actual listing. What has sold in the six figures have been Vintage Zs and provinance Zs like the Franklin Mint Car. Then there was the 300k car that is way out there in oddball land. I think this no-sale was good for the market in that what The Guild said; once you get into the six figure area, it really gets nit-picky, and it should.

An intelligent man with more time than most and an internet connections. Woof! I'm glad you and I are friends. Thanks Ms. Mark.

and you either have an exceptionally large bladder or you peed outside a lot!!!

Well whadda ya know! I've had a lot of fun on here with you guys. Whizzed off most but helped a few too, be it cars or a laugh. One of my best buddies told me the other day I could get away with saying anything, being from Alabama and an alcoholic. What's the world coming to? Likes and dislikes...yeesh. COMMUNITY REPUTATION 3,003

Clear coat applied this morning. Extremely happy with the color choice. Hood, hatch, doors and other misc. parts will be painted tomorrow.

Wet sanded all morning and then coated with green sealer. In booth and base coat applied. Leaving to dry over the weekend and then hit it with clear coat on Monday.

Happy to add my 2 cents, especially since I've been asked to join in. I read this thread last night and was trying to make sense of it. @Sean Dezart - You messaged me about posting these wheels on my own forum (www.viczcar.com). But before I gave you the go ahead, I wanted to know more about these wheels and the product before giving you the go ahead for several reasons. I recall seeing someone in Eastern Europe offering the M-speed style wheels for literally half the price of what M-speed were charging elsewhere. Naturally this seemed too good to be true. Subsequently there was discussion around the person offering these wheels and how they were so cheap? From what I could ascertain before the listings were removed from Marketplace is that they were squirrelled out of the backdoor of the same factory M-speed had commissioned to cast them in China. Bypassing M-speed who had done all the ground work in bringing them to market. You started offering the style of wheels (The Kobe Seiko Rally Mags (wide) and 432 spec (narrow)) a few weeks later. I asked you if you had gone to the effort of reproducing the wheels or if they were M-speed and you were distributing for them, but I didn't get a clear answer. This photo of the "Made in" and the rest appears ground off.. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64479-parts-for-sale-4x-reproduction-nissan-fairlady-z432-wheels-in-aluminum/?do=findComment&comment=606678 To me it looks like you're trying to obfuscate where they have come from or who made them for that matter, but why do that? Anyway, why does it matter where they came from or where they are made? Simple, M-speed spent a lot of money, time and R&D to bring these wheels to market, so whatever price they charge is their business and they should be able to charge whatever price they want. The market will tell them if it's too expensive or not. If you were to commission the same wheels, do the same R&D and decide to offer them at half the price of M-speed, that would be fair. Nobody would be complaining. But what you're doing is taking the hard work and capital that M-speed has kicked into this project and undercut them, but this also creates another downstream problem. Determining which wheels are from M-speed and which ones are posing as M-Speed. It may also deter companies like M-speed from doing similar projects in future as a result and as a community we all lose out when that happens. Q. How do you know the ones sold to you direct from the factory are of the same quality as the ones M-speed is selling? Has it not occurred to you that M-speed may have many batches of wheels sent to them for testing before selling them to the wider market and a bunch of those wheels may be discarded after QC because of the Chinese attitude of "Cha Bu Duo"? Or that the wheels commissioned by M-speed must be done to a higher standard and strength and materials (alloys used must be higher quality), and since they are charing M-speed more for this standard that's fine, but if they are selling them out the back door or via Alibaba marketplace then just Cha Bu Duo will do? Example of wheel testing in Japan on Weds Wheels https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJeFB6SRslk This is why I have concerns about the wheels myself, since I'm not sure what testing has been done and if you are checking any of these wheels yourself for quality and standards. Let's face it the people who want these wheels are probably looking to mount them on cars they have invested a lot of money into and the last thing they want when driving at 100km/h and hitting a pot hole is to have a wheel crack in half on them and cause them to crash or injure themselves. I'm also going through the process of potentially making Kobe Seiko wheels (yes I will call them replicas) but in 15x8 +0 spec. As you know I have 3 'original' Kobe Seiko magnesium wheels in my possession. 1x wide and 2x narrow. We have had the wide version scanned already, but scanning was simple. The next step was to convert that rough scan into a more 'solid' CAD version and tidy up the roughness of the scan itself. Then extrapolate the spokes to make it 15" and widen it to 8". You can see this in the images here. My partner and I (in this venture) have already invested quite a bit of money to get the project to this stage. The next stages will include what's known as FEA (Finite Element Analysis) which involves VSB14 and the standards for the wheels are to be made to comply with: AS 1638-1991 and ISO 3006:2015 (or a more updated version if there is 1). I believe this will be equivalent to the Japanese industry certification that Alan was referring to, but in Australia. Once we get through all of that, it will be onto sourcing high grade alloy material and working with a local foundry to start casting wheels. We still don't know what it will cost to turn out the first wheel, but I'm guessing it won't be cheap. In part because we are not going to go the China route like everyone else. I believe this thread is a good reason why, but also we will have more control over quality and quantity produced. But also we will be employing locals and local industry keeping skills local. I actually think you'd be better off becoming an M-speed distributor rather than trying to undercut them. This is because anyone who has an interest in these wheels is likely to also have an interest in quality items being fitted to their car and not likely wanting to risk it by fitting Cha Bu Duo spec wheels to their car. If you were to contact the local foundry in Australia that helps me produce my own wheels looking to buy direct from them, then I'd want them to tell you to go away as Alan mentioned. Since they are contracted to produce a wheel where I own the casting mould or buck and have invested in that capital / tooling to produce them. The foundry was paid to make the wheel for myself (and partner) not so they can take that design / pattern and go make 1000s of them to sell on eBay etc..

Well I like the way they ride . I’m running about a 1/4 turn out for all these wonderful roads around here . The ride is decent and can be made softer than my non- adjustable KYB’s - but just a smidge . I take a long drive tomorrow so I will really give them some miles . Nice curvy Indiana roads . I’m taking my friend gearhead with me for the ride . Actually I’ll have two passengers l but cranky arse has to stay in the back .

Well I can’t keep up with what I post anymore . The 3.2 is now running with the MN47 head again . Since the last post I had put miles on the p90 while I was fixing a 71 for a customer . Meanwhile the MN head got new Manely valves and bronze guides . I swapped it back I’m with the proper head gasket thickness and should be back to 10.5:1 . Cylinder pressure is around 220 with compression tester . Pistons were pretty much broke in , so just a tune and start flogging . I managed a quick 0-60 time of 4.77 seconds . This is a beast motor . It’s amazing how hard it pulls even in 4h gear . Dyno appointment is in November - everyone is booked up until then . 8B4867CC-29D6-428F-A1D7-5F72482973E3.MP4

You all must be a bunch of youngsters, our family ride was a 61 Bel Air wagon, 283 with 3 on the tree. Got my license in this baby in 1967. When I started dating the folks sold it and got a 1967 MG Midget that they let me take on dates. They must have known the old adage of "accidents in the back seat cause kids"!

More progress. Got the fuel tank cleaned up and installed along with the vent hoses and sender unit. Rear bumper is assembled and installed. Wiper motor and linkage installed. Got my braided hoses in, so started installing those. Added the air cleaner decals. Will order starter and alternator this week and get those in next. That gets us pretty close to starting this baby up. Still waiting for center console vinyl. Long wait for that item, over a month.

In high school one of my good friends had an Oldsmobile VistaCruiser with a big block (455?) in it. That thing was a tank, but lots of top end if you had room to run. Remember burying the speedometer needle more than once with 5 or 6 (or 8 or 9?) of us punks in it. It is a wonder we all survived some of the stupid things we did back then.

Ex Dodge Polara owner myself. Seats 12 comfortably.....

Remember the vans with carpet on the dashes

Yeah, a lot of individual parts "say" just 31000 miles, but to me, it looks like someone spent a whole lot of time trying to achieve that. Like @inline6 above, I've got a whole host of "Yeah, but then why does this look like this?" situations all over the car. He hit some of them, but I've got others as well. Things like: Dented frame rails, control arms, and floors. Impossibly shiny clean yellow paint marks gratuitously applied on rusted hardware that has had the original plating stripped off. Many other hardware pieces where the original plating has been stripped off or painted over with silver paint. Adjustment witness marks on things that just should never have needed to be adjusted like the door latches. Smeared screw heads on things that should have never needed to come off a 31K mile car like the hood prop arm. I see a well kept Z wearing a well done, but many year old repaint. I see a beautiful Z that I would love to own, but I do not see a survivor.

The back seat faced the back window and my daughters would fight to sit back there. There is 5 of them "daughters that is" and we would get some funny looks because of the stunts they pulled back there. Not a seat belt in sight😁 Good days I loved that car. Casey

Over here, THIS is the sofa on wheels.. And.. yep, this gem is mine.. Ps. the spot under it is water.. i've never seen a goldwing with oil under it! you'll need a italian or english bike for that ! 😁

Well I'm very glad you're here. Not only because it helps keep you out of trouble, but also because I'm just glad you're here!

I've done my time in the nightlife. Gained nothing but memories and some periodic bumps on my dingaling. I'd rather talk to you guys and gain more knowledge.

Forgot to add pic. This really works well for securing the vinyl.

At least Dr. Fauci is safe, they won't let him in the WH anymore because he has this nasty habit of telling the truth.

A virus? Huh... Spreading like herpes at a Whore House, see that, WH.

I have a 1976 280Z that was converted to SU carbs by the previous owner. The mechanical fuel pump was crap, so I replaced it with a GMB part which didn't seem to work very well. I replaced that with another GMB pump which seems to work fine. I am aware that some have reported problems with them, so I also installed a NISMO electric pump. In reading on this site about how to wire this up I saw lots of advice about adding an inertia switch for safety. From the FSM and wiring diagram I also learned that the factory fuel pump in my car was controlled by the fuel injection relay, which had been deleted long ago from my car. This article describes one pretty clean way of wiring in a relay and an inertia switch to provide power to a low-pressure electric fuel pump in a carb-converted 280Z. Background: In the 280Z the fuel injection relay is actually two relays packaged together: the EFI bible refers to these as the Power Relay and the Fuel Pump relay. When the ignition switch is in the ON position, the power relay sends sends power to the fuel injection system (ECU, fuel injectors, AFM); the fuel pump relay sends current to ... yep, the fuel pump. The current sent to the AFM doesn't power the AFM; rather, the AFM closes a set of contacts when the engine is running and air is flowing, and it opens those contacts when the engine is off. The current required to operate the fuel pump relay runs through those AFM contacts so that the fuel pump relay closes only when the engine is running and air is flowing. If the engine stops, the AFM contacts are opened and so is the fuel pump relay. It's a little more complicated than this (related to how the Start position of the ignition switch sort of overrides all of this so that the fuel pump can run in order to start the engine), but that's not really important for this discussion - I want the fuel pump to run when the ignition is in the ON or START position, unless I've been in an accident. It turns out, there's an easy way to do this. The connector that (formerly) ran to the Fuel Injection relay is part of the instrument harness and is found under the dash by the steering column. I just replaced the female 6-pin connector (only 4 pins are used) with a similar one from Vintage Connections and then wired the male part to the Ford-type inertia switch and Bosch-type 12VAC 30A relay as shown in the diagram and pictures below. I just mounted the relay and switch to a piece of 2mil aluminum plate, and mounted the whole thing by where the ECU was located. It seems to work: the fuel pump comes on with the key in the ON position, and if I tap (well, smack) the inertia switch to get it to open, the fuel pump turns off. I haven't driven it enough yet to know whether the inertia switch will "break" when I don't want it to (going over bumps, etc.), but it's easily reachable from the drivers seat.

Let me chime in on the transmission FILL and DRAIN plugs... (begin rant) I have no clue why people tighten these SO TIGHTLY! It's un-necessary. In my former life I was a licensed Journeyman Plumber (Ret.). Actually, I guess I still am a licensed Journeyman Plumber - just not employed as such... What in the crap does this have to do with transmissions you ask?? THOSE PLUGS ARE PIPE FITTINGS (well, they have pipe threads...) So, now that you know that I am eminently qualified to speak on the subject: - Go the Home Depot. Plumbing Department. BUY an entire roll of TEFLON TAPE. - Go home. Properly apply (ya, just wrap that sucker up with tape) the teflon tape following the manufacturers directions to the male threads of BOTH PLUGS - BEFORE you install them. - Tighten the plugs (BOTH PLUGS) ONLY ENOUGH so that they don't leak! There is NO pressure inside the transmission (like there is in your Natural Gas line or your galvanized water pipe) SO THE PLUG DOESN'T NEED 80 FT/LBS OF TORQUE. Seriously, you can practically screw them in by hand if you use teflon tape or good pipe dope (just kidding (exaggerating really) you need to snug them up.) But you really, really can stop over tightening those plugs. How do I know? Come and remove these plugs from MY transmission. Be a plumber - even if you don't want to - for me... (end rant);

One end is threaded longer for a longer ball end. This rod comes with 2 ball ends... one hangs longer 🙂

@Zed Head, @Patcon, @iscnetwork IT LIVESSSSSSS!!!!!! Put the starter it back on the car and jumped the car from the starter and that got it to turn over. Not sure why that did it. I can now start it using the key and battery. Maybe it just needed a little extra juice to break it loose the first time? Or the process worked loose some corrosion that I wasn't able to see. Either way, its running!

Final tinted primer yesterday. Very happy with the result. Wet sanding today and hopefully painting over the weekend.

Just trying to understand what is going on here... Already 70 posts on that topic?! Accusations, he says she says, I got a bigger pecker than yours, my father is stronger than yours, 3rd grade schoolyard BS. If anyone wants to be an activist, pick a real fight, plenty to choose from In the real world nowadays... The most important question is; What could be the end result of that back and forth endless non sens...? NOTHING but a big waste of time, that’s what is going to come out of it! No moderator on this forum? If you want the damn wheels buy them, if you don't want them for whatever reasons or beliefs then just dont! That is the most important influence anyone could have on it! My 2 cents... Gentlemen please move on!

LOL. Commitment issues. Here's what I did: After I got the original peened nuts off, I completely removed the shoulder where the peening was originally located. I cut mine off in a lathe, but you could do the same thing with a file or grinding wheel. The end result was a "test nut" that I could install and remove any number of times without damage to anything. Using test nuts, I could put everything together and make sure it all worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what my nuts look like: Then when I was completely convinced everything was done right, I took the test nuts off for the last time and replaced with the one-time-use ZX nuts.

When I have a winter project planned in the garage my poor Z has to spend the winter in the storage tent, I don't like doing in because of all the dust and mice. So this year I bought a big roll of the white shrink wrap that they use for winterizing boats and now she's all snug for the winter. I could have worked all the wrinkles out but I didn't see any reason.

I recently received a pair of front frame rails from ZeddFindings. They measured slightly narrower than the originals by 2mm. The ZF rails are 61mm wide and originals on my 7/70 240Z measured 63mm and 58mm wide at the narrow part in the rad area. My rad measured 640mm wide at the bottom, in the area my frame rails measured 647mm inside. With ZF rails that would be 641mm., or only 1mm clearance for the rad. But in reality it will be tighter as there also formed clips on the lower rad support that may interfere. Here is a sketch and picture to help explain.

I predicted six figure Z's a few years ago when we started to see $50-60k cars. I was told I was crazy. It actually happened faster than I predicted it would. Now $310k is hard for me to fathom but evidently I'm out of touch... I've always wanted a low number car (sub 1000) and almost pulled the trigger a couple of times. I don't really want that anymore and am starting to lean towards 260's and 280's because I don't want to run errands in my $60k 240z. I would rather leave my $15k 260 in the parking lot unattended... This all assumes I ever own a running Z again...

One of my quarantine projects was to clean out my files of old documents. While sorting through some old car receipts, I stumbled across an invoice from December of 2003 for a complete NOS exhaust system purchased from Courtesy Nissan. With a $70.00 freight charge, the whole system set me back $297.48. Given what a NOS exhaust system would run for today, I should have bought a couple more and sat on them 😉 I recently saw a Datsun 240Z used parts ad for a pair of used Koito headlights with an asking price of $300.00, which got me to thinking: Anyone else have old receipts or recall the prices for parts that today would require the sacrificing of a kidney to own?

When I was 14 she was 16, my older woman crush.

Hi orangecounty240Z - your Dad has a wonderful 240Z and I’m happy that he has enjoyed for 50+ years. It is actually amazing how many people purchased their Datsun 240Z new from the Dealer, and kept them to this day. There are about 189 of them listed on the “Z Car Original Owners Register” on the Z Car Home Page. Most likely twice that many out there still not Registered. Speaks volumes about the desirability of the Datsun 240Z’s from 48+ years ago. http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/original.htm We would have to see a lot more detailed pictures of your Z - to give any real estimate related to its market value. Engine Compartment, dash, interior etc. With what we know - a ROM - $25K to $35K as it sits. Other than a good detailing, I wouldn’t put any more money into it, as it won’t seriously effect its sale price in the market. Actually most serious buyers would rather fix whatever they want, the way they want. They would rather see it “as is” than worry about “cover-ups”, or “cheap fixes”. (not saying you would do any of that - just pointing out the skepticism in any used car market). The paint flaking on the hood - that is just paint peeling off of the galvanized sheet metal, usually see it on the firewall as well. The cracking of the paint in the rear deck area - that is just the tar mat heat&sound insulation shrinking with 50 years of age - quit normal.

Watching the news about the crazy plot to kidnap the Governor of Michigan and noticed the lamp behind the guy talking. Check out the plugs in the base.

The repair parts I ordered last week all arrived this week. All look great and top marks to all three suppliers for delivering faster than promised. From Zedd Findings - LH and RH front frame rails, From Auto Panel Solutions (UK) - LH and RH outer repair panels above T/C box, From KF Vintage JDM - LH floor panel and full rear frame rail, toe board, rear floor repair section and RH full rear frame rail an RH toe board Here is a mock up of the LH parts,

Hung Vu is the guy. He makes the replacement dashes and is an awesome guy and supplier.

OK, I promised to describe how the gauges work... Not sure it should be here in this thread, or if I should start a new thread for this. I'll put this here for now, but if people think it should be separate let me know and I'll start a new specific thread about gauge theory. So in order to understand how the gauge system works, I think it would be a little easier to first understand how they DON'T work. I think everyone already has a good handle on this simple system, but it's an important place to start. Here's a pic of a simple (uncompensated) gauge design. Wrap a heating coil around a bimetallic strip and mechanically attach that strip to the linkage of a gauge needle. Flow current through that heating coil and to a sender unit who's resistance reflects the level of whatever you're trying to measure (temp, oil, fuel, whatever). As the resistance of the sender unit changes, the current through the heating coil changes and that changes how hot the bi-metallic strip gets. The lower the sender resistance, the higher the current. The higher the current, the hotter the bimetallic strip gets The hotter the strip, the more the needle moves. Here's a pic: This simple uncompensated gauge system does "work", but it is subject to a few real-world outside influences that can affect the accuracy: First, since the whole thing works on the temperature of the bimetallic strip, the gauge will read differently on a hot day than on a cold day. And second, since the gauges are powered by the battery system of the car, changes in that system voltage will affect the gauge readings. The gauges would read differently sitting with the engine off than they would with the engine spinning at 3000 RPM when the alternator has kicked up the voltage a bunch. The system voltage can vary from about 12V to over 14V and the gauge readings would change as the voltage varied. So the basic gauge system above sorta works, but these two real-wold effects are undesirable. If the above basic gauge system makes sense, I'll get into how they compensate for those two real-world effects.

Also loosen the fill plug before draining it! They can be stubborn. Aweful to drain it then not be able to fill it.

As I seem to be the "cause" of "in the style of", here is my Kobe Seiko Z432 wheel (on the left) and one of my M-speed Z432 "style" wheels; At a quick glance, let's start with the hub, the end hole is different shape, the M-speed is more tappered to the base of the wheel, and a wider circumferance at the bottom. The "spokes" radiating from the hub are a different shape, and are deeper set into the wheel on the Kobe one and thus taller. The four spaces on the outer are different, one longer and squatter (Kobe) while the M-speed is not as sqat and taller. And from therethe outer "spokes" are a slightly different shape too.There are probably others, but you get the drift. The Kobe is thicker in material, and is much more curved over all its features, while the M-speed is much more "machined" with more defined edges. None of the differences mentioned above can happen if you cast/make a buck from an original Kobe wheel. Hence why I say the M-speed is in the style of. Like Gav is doing, and the replicas made here in the UK (you just see the edge of a 15" "works replica wheel [top right] ) all stemmed from have an original Kobe wheel used as a buck or scanned. So all the design follows into the replica.

Admitting a screw- up is a nice way to help someone else avoid it. All of us have brain farts on occasion.

One day later.... So I spent the afternoon trying to figure out this problem. After checking all the basic connections, I finally decided to start disassembling the components to check them out individually. The first component to come out was the brake master cylinder. Upon disconnecting the two brake lines from the bottom of the master cylinder, I immediately noticed that the brake lines were blocked/plugged up with the remnants of paper towel. Apparently, in my haste to reassemble everything I forgot to remove all of the paper towel pieces that I had used to plug up the lines/ports while everything was apart. After a few hours of blowing out lines with compressed air and taking apart the master cylinder I'm pretty sure that I've now successfully removed all the offending material. I feel like Homer Simpson....DOH!!!! A self imposed headache for sure. My wife said that I shouldn't confess to this mistake on the forum...but I felt obligated to disclose what the solution was to the problem that I originally posted...maybe it will help someone else out sometime down the line... I'm feeling confident that tomorrow the brake bleeding job will go much easier!

I can help plated hood latch parts if you’d like...

The original Q plate: