Leaderboard

if you've got the parts in hand, why not try swapping towers? it's 10 bolts and if you can adjust 'till the cam spins freely you're good to go - if not, well you're right where you are now, so nothing to lose but an hour of your time...

https://twitter.com/isjtin?lang=en Lots of cool cars here. Don't see to many 2000gt on CL http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5018189103.html And look at this http://bringatrailer.com/2015/05/01/1-of-50-1972-datsun-240z-commemorative-pace-cars/

Nice work. Glad the bolts came out OK. Do you think the extensive electrolysis was aggravated by poor alt. grounding or was it normal electrolysis between dissimilar metals? I'm sure you've removed many more w-pumps than I have but I haven't seen one that corroded. Thumbs up on the anti-seize. As I slowly disassemble my original 71, I'm finding that everything I worked on 20-40 years ago still comes apart easily.

3 of the 4 bolts were seized. There are holes in the bottom of the timing cover that allow water to seep into the 3 bolts. It is ~ 4" of aluminum-steel electrolyses. When rebuilding use anti-seize and be sure to seal these holes. To remove the pump, I first tried penetrating oil and heat to no avail so I resorted to doing what I did in the past... angle grinder the length of the bolts. Worked like a charm.... sorry for the pump but the timing cover is A1. I also used a big cold chisel that made short work of the cast aluminum pump. Once the corroded bolts were exposed I could chip away the aluminum then bend the bolts out. The final job was to use a vice grip to twist out the bolts. The photo is hard to visually decode as the block is almost upside down and there is a sheet of plastic over the exposed bottom ( I stuck one oil pan bolt in to hold the plastic). The gasket also survived