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Ahhh is this a 240z? i cant tell...


joeZay

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well i contacted this guy who is selling a 240z...ive been looking for a 240z as my first car and this cars looks different...i want to know what you guys think because i dont want to waste my uncles time going to this guys house which is about 1 hour away to check some car....thanks guys...i think its a 280z but i dont know...

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Looks like that car has had some work done. The Z emblem on the hood is in the wrong spot. From that, I also see bumpers that were used on the 240z. (the 280z used larger bumpers causing them to stick way out from the car) From that view, it certainly "looks" like a 240z.

But, since the body is the same from the 240z, 260z, and 280z, it's almost impossible to tell for sure. Can you give us more information? Ie: Does it have fuel injection, carbs (round or flat top), what's the VIN, etc...

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The thin bumpers, front turn signals, and "DATSUN" emblem on the side indicate that it's a 240Z. While any of those could have been changed, a 280Z would have a 280Z emblem on the side. A VIN could be the proper way to determine the model.

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this is the description that he gave me..

the car is clean. no dents in body except the a little dent in the tip of the hood. no rust any where, new glass pack exhaust system, carbs just need to be adjusted. belongs to 17 year old that wants to go away to school. call to set up time if you want see the car..also has 7 point roll cage.

thank you and have a wonderful day..

im probably going to buy it i hope no one else buys it...im going to be sad if someone does...

:devious:

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Originally posted by Mike

Also ask the owner why the emblem has been relocated (hit a deer?) and how come the bumper rubber is missing.

I don't think that's the emblem. It looks like there's one one each side. I they're those things to keep the hood locked down. Not that a Z hood would come open while racing.

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Originally posted by MikeW

The thin bumpers, front turn signals, and "DATSUN" emblem on the side indicate that it's a 240Z. While any of those could have been changed, a 280Z would have a 280Z emblem on the side. A VIN could be the proper way to determine the model.

The emblem on the side (fender emblem) looks like it says more than "Datsun" but I can't read what it says.

also the hood isn't closed on the thing, I wonder if it can be closed. I wonder if the "little dent in the tip of the hood" has messed it up so that it can't close?

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How much does the owner want for it and what are your expectations for the car. If it has little or no rust you might be able to overlook a few imperfections. I would not worry much about things that you can easily fix. Check for rust on or near the battery tray, the spare tire and door sils underneath trim. If you are unfamiliar, carbs can be a pain to rebuild and set up. My 2cents.

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I agree with MikeW, those arent badges on the hood, there bonnet clips on either side to keep the bonnet down... There is definately soemthing wrong with the bonnet if he needs to use those.. As you can see from the pic, the bonnet still doesnt close properly, which makes me suspect that this car has been involved in an accident at some time or another.

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I wouldn't get wrapped around the axel over the hood. That is exactly what an unlatched hood looks like. So it may be fine just unusual Worry about the big stuff and if you like the car. That price probably isn't far off. If you plan on painting the car if you buy it, picking up another hood and the correct latches is not that difficult

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Originally posted by getrdone

I wouldn't get wrapped around the axel over the hood. That is exactly what an unlatched hood looks like. So it may be fine just unusual Worry about the big stuff and if you like the car. That price probably isn't far off. If you plan on painting the car if you buy it, picking up another hood and the correct latches is not that difficult

"unlatched" hoods don't come with hood pins sticking up through the hood, there is more to that hood issue than being left open. Why buy a car with damage if you don't have to? joeZay is in CA, there are still decent cars out here without the damage and crap repairs done to them.

People should go into a purchase with their eyes open and knowing as much as possible about the problems with a car. It is almost always best to buy a car in the best shape you can afford rather than buying someone else's jerry-rigged mess.

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yeah i get what you are saying..

i am a HS kid looking for a 240z... damn looks so beautiful..but then again my budget is arround 1500 and im really desperate to get a car...i hope you guys understand than i really like the 240...damn ahhh :love:

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some people are trying to build a concours car. It is all about expectations and what you are prepared to pay for something. A 17 year old just might think that hood pins would look good on an old z. Who knows. It may be a solid car to rebuild who knows. For the asking price it is possible to do much worse. I a gree that you buy the best car that you can for the money. Just plain cheaper to restore and drive.

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The best advice I can give to you is go look at the car with your father, 1 hr away drive is not far at all. Check the car over thorougly, look at the front and the back and ensure the care doesnt "crab" a good indicator that an accident has caused severe warping of the chassis, since we suspect an accident from the bonnet not closing.. They many be a reasonable explanation for this - ask him.

Another bit of good advice I can give is to not buy the first Z you see, ok if this one looks like a steal and everything checks out go for it, but it is a good idea to see other Z's and know what you get for that sort of money by having a good idea of whats on offer...

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Originally posted by joeZay

yeah i get what you are saying..

i am a HS kid looking for a 240z... damn looks so beautiful..but then again my budget is arround 1500 and im really desperate to get a car...i hope you guys understand than i really like the 240...damn ahhh :love:

OK, joeZay, then make sure you point out all of the problems to the seller. Start your bidding for the car on the LOW side. You can expect to have to pay for maintainance and other "issues" on a 30 year old car, so don't blow your whole bank account on the car, you are going to need some money for the inevitable issues that crop up from time to time on an old car. Don't pay more than you have to.

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My 2¢:

From the initial impression I got of the picture is that the car has been set up for "racing". The 5 point roll bar, the decal accross the windshield, the latch down pins for the hood (required for most racing, after you remove the latch), the mags, the extra decals on the door, all point to it being "customized".

What is customization? Changes to the appearance of the vehicle to portray a different look. Where someone will look at it and say "Cool, a race car!" , someone else will look at it and say, "What a fake!". The true test of whether it's a race car or not is to take it out on the track and check.

That brings up the other issue. This being your first car, do you want a modified "souped up" car that may be very difficult to trouble shoot and repair if things aren't working correctly, or are you planning on restoring it to stock. If the later, with only 1500 to work with, you haven't even got the ante you'll need to get started.

If on the other hand, you DO want a race car, then it might be fine. But then again, it might be a sheep in wolf's clothing. It may be customized to LOOK like a race car, but may just be a plain old stock vehicle underneath. Not that that doesn't make it fast, just that it's not going to be the rocket it's portrayed to look like.

It may be that the car is so rust free, and the "mods" done to it are so minor that you can undo them in a short while. Then you have to ask yourself what you intend to do with it. That will dictate how much money it's going to cost you and how many headaches.

Hope this helps.

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Joe - As a newbie and also a first timer to the Z scene, we dont want to see you screw up, hence all the posts so far..

Do a little bit of research before you go and see this car, check out the archives on here about buying a z what to look for etc...

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Hi joe,

I was in your situation a few months ago. I ended up buying the Z. It was the highlight of my senior year, even better than umm...well you know. Any how the two of us were having such fun (the Z and I). It was pure bliss. Crusing, getting looks, pulling chicks, and enjoying the drive. It was the perfect marrige of teenage misconception, and reality. :love:

Then one fine day my Z changed. I felt as if i had been stripped naked and made to stand ontop of my desk in all my classes for the rest of my life. Or like someone shaved every hair off my head and said I must take my prom pictures like that.

I spun a bearing. Since that grim, dark, sadening day my Z has been in my garage looking for some love. I've given it all that I possibly can. But being in high school, and not having the support of my parent to bring her back to life has forced me to let her sit for nearly two months! This combined with many other variables of life has made me sad.

Luckily my job at pizza hut has aided me in affording the rebuild of the engine. It is nearly complete. I have only to put studs in the head for the intake, exhaust, and fuel pump.

What i'm trying to say is take into consideration the reality of owning an old car. I hope you are prepared to spend a large chunk of your monthly income on your ride. You willl!

sorry for the length,

isaac

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have you checked on the insurence? especially when they see the roll cage ! Another thing the p o is a younger dude and if he has been spinning high revs in the 30 year old engine and if it has alot of miles since a rebuild it could be a gernade . I know that you are excited over the car and I cannot blame you , take the advise given by us and step back and take deep breath and a good look with your dad. At the price it is indead tempting , but what are you going to do if you are faced with a $ 500.00 or more repair bill after you bu t the car. If you have rust repair to do y ou are looking at MUCH more than that . Be sure to pull up the carpets on both sides and rear hatch area and look for any rust, as will as in the spair tire well. I have minimal rust to take care of and can do alot my self and I could be looking at about $1000. 00 . Just for rust . Good luck and keep us posted on what you find. :classic:

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