Is the coil hooked up right now? I did find BW to + and B to -, and GW to balance resistor but missing something? I notice also there a black wire coming from the booster area, and thought this was on the balance resistor? But shouldn't all the wires for the ignition come from the front loom?

And also I'm confused what's the function of the part that's under the coil, pictured? I assume 1 hose went to what the picture shows? But the other connection seems closed anyhow? Anyone some information on this?

Thanks

The coil wiring looks and sounds right off the top of my head. The 3 way vacuum hose bit is part of the gas tank vapor recovery and crank case ventilation system, it's hooked up like so:

Edited March 8, 201312 yr by Captain_Zeros
added another picture

Do you have a volt meter to see if you are getting power - maybe this link will help you. We really don't know what the problem is at this point.

• Will the engine turn over?
  
• Will it crank and not start?
  
• Are you getting fuel?
  

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/41386-73-240z-no-spark-coil.html

The coil wiring looks and sounds right off the top of my head. The 3 way vacuum hose bit is part of the gas tank vapor recovery and crank case ventilation system, it's hooked up like so:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61718[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]61719[/ATTACH]

Thanks, this made me fix that problem. Only thing I was missing on the coil was the black wire to the other side of the balance resistor ( if that's what it's called? ), that now seems to be coming from the loom near the brake booster/windschield washer, and I thought normally that wire should come from the loom near the coil right?

Do you have a volt meter to see if you are getting power - maybe this link will help you. We really don't know what the problem is at this point.

• Will the engine turn over?
  
• Will it crank and not start?
  
• Are you getting fuel?
  

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/41386-73-240z-no-spark-coil.html

Fuel and spark should be there, i'll try starting it tomorrow. Was just a bit confused on the coil connections, because 1 wire was missing.

This is whats going on in my '73 Z. Everything comes out of the harness by the coil. The ballast resistor lowers the amount of power going to the coil when the key is in the run position so you don't burn out your points in your distributor super fast, but the ignition switch bypasses it when it's in the start position so you can get a hotter spark to start the engine easier.

(Points and a ballast resistor go together, for instance if you swap out for a 280zx transistorized points-less distributor, or some other system that recommends bypassing the resistor, then you are supposed to bypass the ballast resistor because it's designed to run at full voltage all the time 'cause it has no reason not to.)

PS: just to confirm, disregard if you already knew this, but the big rectangular block is the ballast resistor and the little round can with one wire going to it is just a little capacitor (the old timey car word is "condenser") to help suppress spikes in the electrical system from the coil making and dropping magnetic fields and high voltage all the time that might, for instance, be audible through a car stereo.

It seems it was hooked up right, car started right up. Thanks everyone for the help so far.

If this is showing the distributor vacuum pot- the hose looks pinched off.

Like I said, I know the topic is coil, wiring,etc. but I just noticed it and thought I would point it out.

Carry on.

Edited March 10, 201312 yr by Willoughby Z
add photo