Question about Clutch Fork throw???

[auzziez]

Siding this conversation: does the -72 240z clutch slave cylinder work on -77 5 speed?

I will be able to let you know in a few days. I just ordered the clutch slave from Motorsport Auto. According the they guy I spoke with, it should fit just fine since I already have the clutch fork with the hole in it. This version of the clutch slave is adjustable. Later versions are not and have a solid clutch folk. I'll post the results of the parts swap once I am done.

[ksbeta]

This sounds familiar. I haven't had a chance to revisit mine yet, but after replacing the master cylinder (along with everything else), I think my clutch MC just isn't extended far enough to the pedal. Good luck

[Carl Beck]

Got It! I wish I could provide that information, unfortunately, the tranny/clutch combination were in the car when I bought it, and the tranny has never been off of the car

A 77/78 5spd which was freshly rebuilt by John Williams in Atlanta was installed with a new Clutch Assembly - about six months before Toyy bought the car from my son. It ran, drove and shifted as it should - all the components are correct. As I recall Tony has owned the car for what.. three or four years now. In that time I doubt he has put more than a few thousand miles on it. Look at how clean the tranny still looks in the pictures he posted. I don't see any signs of the slave leaking. As I recall the clutch system was filled with DOT 5 by the way.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Carl Beck]

Siding this conversation: does the -72 240z clutch slave cylinder work on -77 5 speed?

The answer is YES. The 72 Z's used the Type B tranny - Same as the 77 5spd. They both used the same Self Adjusting Slave Cylinder. They both use the same throw-out bearing fork - with NO hole in it.

Of course you can use the 70/71 style Manually Adjustible Slave with the correct Fork - on any of the transmissions.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[auzziez]

The parts arrived from Motorsports Auto in just 4 days! Let the fun begin. Damn I wish I had a lift!

On a side note. The DOT5 fluid in the master reservoir is a bit brown, and since I am replacing everything I would like to clean out the hard hydraulic line. I searched the forums, but didn't see any discussions about this.

How Would You Do It?

[Carl Beck]

Let the fluid drain out at the slave Before You Change It. Take a clean rag and clean out the reservoir. Install the new slave. Then refill the resevoir and let clean fluid drain though the lines to the slave. I ususally let a cup or so drain though. Let it gravity bleed - keep the resevoir full - so you don't introduce air pockets in the line. Just put a catch pan under the slave and leave the bleed valve open. After you have put a cup or so though - close the bleed valve.

FWIW,

Carl B

Edited September 28, 2012 by Carl Beck

[auzziez]

Survey Says!

So the effort of changing the Clutch Master and Slaves was well worth it, although the actual problem was exactly what Carl said it would be.

Firstly, the parts order from MotorSports Auto came quickly and at a reasonably good price. All parts were as expected, in new condition, and as ordered.

Parts removal went in the following order:

Remove the clip from the line connector where the hydraulic hard line meets the slave cylinder rubber line.

Disconnect the two lines at the connector and let drain.

Remove the Slave cylinder bolts and remove the slave from the tranny.

Disconnect the Master cylinder from the clutch pedal (easier said than done).

Disconnect the Master cylinder hard line

Remove the Master cylinder nuts and washers and remove the master from the firewall.

Installation was mostly the reverse. Make sure to connect the Slave cylinder rubber line to the slave cylinder before reinstalling the slave.

Before connecting the Slave cylinder hard line to the slave cylinder rubber line, follow Carl's instructions to flush out the hard line. Amazing how much crap came out of the line.

I reconnected the hard and rubber hydraulic lines and let the slave cylinder gravity bleed before actually performing a push-pedal bleed with the help of my wife.

Problem was that after all of that, with almost 5cm movement on the clutch fork, the car still leaped forward when I tried to start it. This meant that the clutch and flywheel had somehow frozen together, which seemed impossible since I had driven and parked it just 1 1/2 hours before this problem first happened.

In any event, I put the car into 4th gear and with the help of my next door neighbor, we pushed the car forward and backward 4-5 times. We were able to skid the wheels in my garage. I then got back in, with the car in gear and the clutch in, I turned the key and although it leapt forward, we heard a small "clunk". Next time I turned the key, it started right up with the clutch pedal in.

I immediately took it out for a run. I need to adjust the clutch pedal a little bit, but I think the problem is solved. Lesson learned: Drive it at least once a week during the humid Florida summer time.

Thanks for everyone's help on the forum.

Edited October 2, 2012 by auzziez

[Carl Beck]

Good to hear you got it worked out. Now - peel some rubber, do some power shifts about 5000 RPM.. the harder you run a 240Z the better they run. That will also clear most of the corrosion off the clutch disc and flywheel surface.

Normally this doesn't happen unless the car has sat for several weeks or months. If it happended just 1 1/2 hours after you parked it - that is really rare. Must have been a very short trip - just enough to warn things up, but not enough to clean the disc/flywheel.

Anyway - we are starting to get some mornings and evenings cool enough to drive a 240Z here again..

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited October 3, 2012 by Carl Beck