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motorman7

1970 Z Refresh...biting the bullet

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    Why take apart a perfectly good Z?:paranoid: I guess it's because its time. After almost 40 years of oxidation and corrosion the engine needs a bit of sprucing up. I will start dissassembling today and get the zinc plated parts cleaned and replated. Wow, there are a lot of zinc plated parts. I am plannning on doing most of the cleaning myself and then taking the parts down to Les at Classic Datsun for a final clean and plating. Looks like the brake and clutch lines will need to go as well. Unfortunate because I just got the brakes working great (rears were not operating for a period of time). I am still debating on the braided hose, but leaning towards braided. Still have most of them so I think I can make that happen. Anyway, will keep this updated with pics. Here are the before pics.

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    Before you take parts out for plating - - lay everything out in rows of like parts...

    Then take digital pictures of everything. That way you can lay them all out when they come back and see if you got everything back. If you didn't you will know what is missing and/or what you need to replace.

    Small parts like washers, small bolts etc have a way of getting lost when a bunch of them are sent out for plating...

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

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    Man I really love the color of your Z. Is that the stock 920 gold? For some reason it looks much better than others I have seen.

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    Before you take parts out for plating - - lay everything out in rows of like parts...

    Then take digital pictures of everything. That way you can lay them all out when they come back and see if you got everything back. If you didn't you will know what is missing and/or what you need to replace.

    Small parts like washers, small bolts etc have a way of getting lost when a bunch of them are sent out for plating...

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

    Thanks for the advise. I will take as many pics as I can (without getting the camera too dirty)

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    Man I really love the color of your Z. Is that the stock 920 gold? For some reason it looks much better than others I have seen.

    Hi Adam,

    Yes, the car is completely stock and untouched, except for some recent rubber hoses (seen in pics) and belt. Even the plug wires are original with 1970 stamped on them. I think the color looks better in the pics than in real life. The pic is taken after wax, before show.

    Rich

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    I am surprised that you are going for it. Good luck with the job.

    Hi Monte,

    It was a tough decision. The engine bay doesn't look that bad, but the fuel rails and smog tubes were bugging me. They look pretty bad. Also, the parts that I cleaned the corrosion from look good, but now have little or no plating and are succeptable to worse corrosion. So, I figured it was all or nothing. Plus, it would look funny to have a couple 'newish' looking parts and most older. So, the only way to address it was to do the whole engine bay. That is all I am planning for now. I am happy with everything else on the car. Thanks for the best wishes.

    Best Regards,

    Rich

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    Well, got most of the engine parts out. Will take out the brake lines tomorrow or Tuesday. The only glitch in the process was trying to take the smog tubes out of the manifold. :disappoin They are rusted in. I could only loosen two, so I have applied Liquid Wrench to the threads and will let them soak and try to loosen them again tomorrow.

    The plan over the next several days is to sort the parts for plating and document them with photos. I will then clean them before taking them to Les for final clean and plate. While those are out to plate, I will clean and touch up the long block and engine bay. I will also clean and wax the engine bay paint before I start any assembly. Am also planning on cleaning all of the aluminum parts while they are off the engine. I am not palnning on a carb overhaul as they seem to be in excellent shape already. Should be fun.

    Also, any tips and advice from members on this refresh is appreciated.

    Rich

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    Rich,

    Wow!, It's going to look great when you get done. Glad I'm retired from the show circuit! Did you try Zaino yet? If so, what did you think?

    Bob

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    Hi Bob,

    I have not ordered any yet, but it is on the list. Will probably order in July or August once I finish the refresh. I figure I will be out of commission here for a month or so. I am planning on going to the JCCS show. I always enjoy that one. Will be my first time with a car to enter though.

    Best Regards,

    Rich

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    Rich, Now that I see the parts off the car I can see why you are doing this....a great idea and plan. Regards, David

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    The only glitch in the process was trying to take the smog tubes out of the manifold. :disappoin They are rusted in. I could only loosen two, so I have applied Liquid Wrench to the threads and will let them soak and try to loosen them again tomorrow.

    Also, any tips and advice from members on this refresh is appreciated.

    The only glitch in the process was trying to take the smog tubes out of the manifold. They are rusted in. I could only loosen two, so I have applied Liquid Wrench to the threads and will let them soak and try to loosen them again tomorrow.

    I use Aero Kroil -that is Kano Lab's penetrating oil in a spray can - it is the only product that I've seen break the air injection tube nuts loose. Given enough time, and repeated applications - you might get them out with Liquid Wrench... http://Kanolabs.com

    After soaking them with Kroil - I put a line wrench {brake line wrench} on the nuts - then a swift blow with a brass hammer - and they usually break lose. You want to assure that the line wrench is a good tight fit - otherwise you can round the nuts off...

    If they don't break lose... then you have to heat the manifold around the nuts...

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

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    I got all the bolts, washers, screws, hose clips and various other bits back from the platers and the results are amazing. However, I did a lot of prep. The more you do the better they will turn out.

    My process.

    1. Gave them all a soak in the parts cleaner. Kerosene and solvent.

    2. Removed surface rust and remaining dirt with a bench grinder mounted wire wheel

    3. Treated any hard to get to rusty parts with rust killer and used a tiny wire brush to get it in.

    4. Gave them to my local Datsun club "good bastard" who works at the platers.

    5. He wasn't happy with how some of them turned out so he re-plated those.

    Good luck.

    James

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    motorman7, don't forget the nuts and washers on the top of the struts, they will look out of place with everything else plated like new if not done.

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    motorman7, don't forget the nuts and washers on the top of the struts, they will look out of place with everything else plated like new if not done.

    Thanks, I probably would have overlooked those. I also need to take off the plate for the windshield washer fluid lines. Will do a careful final check before I take everything in.

    Thanks for the heads-up,

    Rich

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    I got all the bolts, washers, screws, hose clips and various other bits back from the platers and the results are amazing. However, I did a lot of prep. The more you do the better they will turn out.

    My process.

    1. Gave them all a soak in the parts cleaner. Kerosene and solvent.

    2. Removed surface rust and remaining dirt with a bench grinder mounted wire wheel

    3. Treated any hard to get to rusty parts with rust killer and used a tiny wire brush to get it in.

    4. Gave them to my local Datsun club "good bastard" who works at the platers.

    5. He wasn't happy with how some of them turned out so he re-plated those.

    Good luck.

    James

    Thanks James! I will begin this process shortly.

    Best Regards,

    Rich

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    I use Aero Kroil -that is Kano Lab's penetrating oil in a spray can - it is the only product that I've seen break the air injection tube nuts loose. Given enough time, and repeated applications - you might get them out with Liquid Wrench... http://Kanolabs.com

    After soaking them with Kroil - I put a line wrench {brake line wrench} on the nuts - then a swift blow with a brass hammer - and they usually break lose. You want to assure that the line wrench is a good tight fit - otherwise you can round the nuts off...

    If they don't break lose... then you have to heat the manifold around the nuts...

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

    I will need to search for a line wrench. The 14mm is too big and 13 too small. 9/16" is as bad as the 14. I will try again tonite to loosen the remaining 4.

    Rich

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    I cleaned up most of the engine bay paint with Maguires cleaner wax this evening. Still have more to go but got about 75% of it cleaned. Still have a lot of little detail areas but not bad.

    The engine (Carb side) cleaned up well but took a lot of effort. I used mineral spirits on the paint and greasey areas; 0000 steel wool and lacquer thinner on the corroded aluminum. That came out pretty well but is a lot of work. Probably less than halfway done with this. Was surprised at the poor paint job on the engine block. There are paint drips. Perhaps it was painted on a Monday at the engine shop.

    I did get two more of the smog rail fitting loose. Four down, two to go.

    It's nice to have a 17 year old son to help. He works in exchange for letting him drive the car on occasion. He did a nice job cleaning the nuts and bolt with wire wheel in prep for zinc plating.

    Rich

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    Hi Rich. Just as we said at the last show, once you start it is impossible to stop. Get some blue engine paint from Les while at his shop, you will be glad that you did. Looking forward to seeing the final product.

    Randy.

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    Hi Randy,

    Nice to hear from you again. Funny thing about the engine paint here. I am wondering if this is the norm. Actually, right now I am debating on what to do with this. I almost want to keep it because it is original and so bad. The coverage is pretty complete and there does not seem to be any corrosion set in. I was actually debating on whether to just give it a clear coat instead of the true paint color. As everything else on the car is original, I am now wondering if painting this is a good idea. I will think about it here for a while as I have time and am in no rush. Will spend time prepping the zinc parts and continuing the clean. I hope to get my zinc parts looking as good as yours.

    Best Regards,

    Rich

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    If you have re-plated the bolts/nuts/parts - and cleaned the aluminum up - - you may as well re-paint the block the original color.

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

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    Rich. I understand you hesitation. I had it when I started my refresh. Remember it is only "original" once. If you start replating your Z it will no longer be original. And the bad exisiting paint on the block will make it look like you scimped on the "refresh". Been there, done that. Your choice, but just trying to give you another viewpoint.

    You will still be able to claim all original parts, or mostly so....I do!;)

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    Yes, that makes sense. I will go ahead and 'refresh' the block with paint. I guess it just had that 'ugly puppy' attraction, that's why I was hesitant.

    Thanks for the feedback

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