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Zs-ondabrain

240Z Combo and T/S switch repair Service

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Here's a proposition for ALL 240Z owners. If you send me your combo and T/S switches, I will rebuild them to the best of my abilities. I've done it plenty of times before and know what I'm doing.

If you have extra parts you'd like to donate to the cause, feel free to send them in the same box. The more spare switch parts I have the better I can build your switches. Springs depress over time, the ball bearings get flat spots, the teeter plates get tracks in them and warp over time because of heat and stress.

I've built over 10 sets (combo and T/S switches) and have not had to deal with ANY failures so far. I can't tell you how much the 10 sets get used but I haven't heard anything but praise. So if you're intersted in my service, Please contact me with your specific details and what you'd like done and we'll figure out a decent price.

But for now, we'll say........1) you pay to ship them to me

2) I am charging $35 to rebuild both switches as a pair

and $5 for return shipping unless you want another method of shipping.

3) I will offer U.S.P.S. (2-3 day) shipping to get them back to you ASAP unless you choose an alternate shipping method.

4) if you would like more than one set rebuilt for you, please send an additional $30 per set. (you save $5 per additional set)

5) I can also offer a discount or free shipping to those who send me a decent amount of spare switch parts.

The more non-returnable spare parts I am sent, the more choices I have to pick the best parts to rebuild from.

Let me know what ya think here (on this thread) and contact me with any other questions you have at wolfin32z@yahoo.com

Dave.

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I always hear how expensive they are to replace and how they are always failing, do to too much amperage flowing thru them. That's one of the MAIN reasons that I started building the headlight and parking light harness's.

I figure if I can offer a repair service at a fair price, to both me and the customer, that can help solve a major problem we all have, then why not offer it up.

The harness's I build solve a lot of the present problems with the electrical systems in the 240Z's. Unfortunately, the PRE-existing problems are still there, waiting to fail, if they haven't already.

If you are in need of service and don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, feel free to contact me on the issue. The service is available to all who need it and no one will be descriminated against. I will most like do the 260 and 280Z's as well.

Dave.

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Based on the quality and workmanship shown in your relay harnesses I would have total confidence in your ability to refurbish the combo / turn signal switch. Will you guarantee that the switch one sends is the switch that you return except for internal parts replaced, if any?

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Of coarse!! Each switch would be tagged with the owners name, then repaired using existing parts, or what ever is best for that particular switch.

The only reason for a replacement part would be too much damage, deteriazation of the arm, clips, plastic etc. In which I would notify the owner of the problem and go from there.

Dave.

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because I have been smelling it for fifteen years in my zx. I thought it was a connector issue, but splicing in another didn't change a thing. I believe you know your stuff, but how to get around the "metal fatigue" issue in the contactors without fabricating new ones? Also that amp issue is a factor in wrecking the contactor "pads"... Springs get tired, resistance increases, and then the arc starts welding high spots, etc. and so on... I know I would be REALLY interested in a "go around the springs" harness with alternate switch. Thing is, the night my combo switch failed, I think only the fact that I'm a welder saved me. It was funny though, when in the pitch black, cars kept "flashing" me to turn my lights on. Fortunately some saint figured things out and tailgated me along my way. I made it home, but it was a very strange trip.

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I would make a new swivel plate if need be, springs can be replaced with new ones (luckily they still make those silly things) Ball bearing can also be replaced, I am ISO 9001 certified with a soldering Iron or at least I was 6 years ago but I get better with time.

I will even replace wires and terminals if need be. Clean the crap off the rubber sleeve on the handle. or even repaint the rod if neccessary.

I'll do the best I can on each and every one of the services.

Dave.

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Maybe "contactor tines" better describes the components I had a question about. The brass looking (I suspect an alloy) finger-like things that "spring" into location and complete the circuit when one turns the knob. Sorry about that, my experience has been that "springs" pertain to repositioning rather than helixes (ie., springs in pocket knives are linear). Regardless, the problem parts for me are the "brass things". They just look proprietary/custom to me. You have a line on these?

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If needed, I could always find a way to put a better one in or even MAKE one out of a fresh peice of brass from a scrap plate. Either way, I'll make it work. That's what I do.

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Mine is a ZX switch, which is a completely different planet. Sorry about my confusion. Though, I do hope you see my point about alloys and characteristics. Metallurgy is tricky, and materials in application are not created equal. Mechanical, chemical, and electrical qualities all can be manipulated through alloying. "Austenitic stainless steel" is just one crazy example... Thanks, good luck, and I hope you hit a superior specification.

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This is a new sevice and I realize that it will take some time for people to realize the potential of it. I just wrote some info down about resistance in the "72 240 heater fan (honda mod) stopped running today... " thread that explains one of the major reasons behind this service.

Just "bumpin" it back up there to keep ya informed.

Dave.

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Hey DAve,

I am not going to argue or anything like that, I just wanted to point out my point of view--

There is one point of my Z that I've always been proud of, the electrical system has always been perfect, as close to original and the kind of condition that a restorer of a 72 concours would have in their system, the fuse box looks perfect,etc....(not saying that I haven't missed something and it'll blow up tomorrow, but imo), and whenever I've had the chance, Ie. I've had the dash out, etc....I've always throroughly checked all the wires and all the wires that were possible to electrical double 'double-time' under the dash I did do this to.

My issue with the plastic fuse holder on the heater melting was actually quite minor....I guess my description did not do justice....the melting is that it looked brand new from the outside (the original) but the edges were essentially glued together, so no matter what I did to twist I couldn't get it off. So I applied probably unnecessary force so I cracked it when I removed it.

I run it on full blast almost exclusively during the Winter, so that's why I bumped to 25 amp....I don't feel that's an issue, simply because I sometimes feel that certain circuits have smaller amp fuses based on the part, and not the wires. Would I be wrong on that? To me personally, I don't have the specs, but I would say the power output in Amps is at least worth a 5 amp increase in the fuse, and that the wires are only rated at 20 amp before they would fail.

Am I wrong?

CC'd in the original thread too.

By the way, Congrats to Enrique for getting his letter printed in Winter 2007 Nissan Sport Mag--probably our best tech writer/answer on our forum representing us very well!!!!

PS. Dave, I've taken apart my combo switch carefully, cleaned it all up, sprayed / clean liberal tuner spray and made it as good as possible imo without replacing the metal pieces that are rubbed on.

It works great other than that. Did you by chance get a hold of new contact pieces for the light/wiper contacts? Just curious. Mine are horrible, just normal wear over 30+ years.

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Dave,

Congrats on have such a nice electrical system. Unfortunately, Most of us have to deal with the (Previous Owner) problem. Every Z is different and weather conditions and the treatment of those Z's vary by each owner. Not everyone has a garage or the upkeep knowledge that is now available to us.

As for your heater fuse, if your wiring is in good shape, then you should have no problem with a 25 amp fuse instead of the 20. But those of us with weak systems, that have been used on a daily basis in bad weather Year round, (I live in the northwest where rain, wind and cloudy days are of the norm) don't have the pleasure that you enjoy yearly.

We don't hate you for this, but it does'nt make our lives any easier. But thats what each of us is here for. Most of wiring in our systems can be used with higher amperage fuses but I would'nt suggest it.

If I had the metal contact plates in front of me, I could give a better assesment of the peice. I ussually just reform, smooth out, sand, file or what ever the situation calls for. But being as how no one has sent me a switch for repair yet, I cannot give an acurate assesment yet.

Dave.

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Dave,

I will be sending you several-some ofr parts, some for repair when I get to the right box...

Will

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Just got my spare combo and turn signal switches for my daily driver 280Z back from Dave, wanted to put my note of "thank you very much for a fine job" in. Parts look better than new, and I will play with them tomorrow to see the improvement in operation.

I must commend you on the excellent customer service, attention to detail and a through report on what the finished results were.

I will be sending the switches that is currently installed on my 280Z shortly. Thanks for a speedy turn-around and excellent workmanship.

Wayne

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You are Quite welcome Wayne, Funny thing is that your 280Z switches are easier to service than the 240Z switches because 1) they are not as old as the 240Z models and 2) the 280Z switches are built with the idea of "future maintanence" in mind.

Hey Will,

Did ya ever find that box? Must be one hell of a storage unit or one big mess of a garage. I feel for ya, I can't find half of the stuff that I KNOW is in my garage......ROFL

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.... 280Z switches are easier to service than the 240Z switches because 1) they are not as old as the 240Z models and 2) the 280Z switches are built with the idea of "future maintanence" in mind.

Sounds like you could be in the future business of making adapter harnesses for the 240's to use the 280's...... :surprised

Wayne

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Sounds like you could be in the future business of making adapter harnesses for the 240's to use the 280's...... :surprised

Wayne

one word Wayne, NOPE. or NODDA, NINE, NOT.

OK, 4 words. But you get the point. Nice try though.

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Me thinks he doth protest too much...Niet!

Wayne,

Yep, I found the box Monday night-probably eight sets from varying years-including a NOS set and a used JDM set!

I need to go through them for photographiong for the parts variation thread(I know ther are at least four versions-two non USA-of the grip at the end of the turn signal lever)and send the used ones out for parts and two rebuilds(including the JDM one!), but I am planning another culling of the herd of parts cars in a couple of weeks, and will probably wait until I can send another eight to ten sets with them. and get three sets of 240Z and the JDM set redone.

I will also pull a bunch of harnesses (or connectors if the harnesses are already cobbled or cooked).

Will

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Me and Wayne have been tooling around something on the side. I plan on starting up a complete engine harness set-up for the 240Z's but not before I do a lot of research on the subject.

From what I've heard. Brand new 240Z Engine Harness's are going from $550 and up to $750 - $800. I plan on borrowing a few harness's from 240Z owners can loan their engine harness out for a month or so, so I can measure copy, repair, rewrap etc. In exchange for me borrowing their harness. I will make them a headlight upgrade harness and return their harness rewrapped with an HLH in the same box. I figure that a $125 harness for letting borrow theirs isn't too back of a deal.

Once I have made all my measurements, acquired the 3-5 different styles for the 240Z, And done all my research on suppliers and wires, I'll start making BRAND NEW 240Z ENGINE HARNESS'S and sell them for about $450 each.

Let me know what you guys think and I will take ALL comments into consideration. Nothing is set in stone yet but this is the way I normally do things, as you all know. ANY VOLENTEERS?

Dave.

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P.M. sent Dave. :classic:

I have all of the harnesses out right now, so if you want more than just the engine bay let me know. It's just a thought, but you could do an entire inventory of the wiring of the car while you are at it and see if you wanted to offer reproductions of the dash, and chassis/rear harness as well.

Jim D.

"Zup" :bunny:

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Dave,

I will be spending at least one full day-probably-two pulling parts at the farm. The plan is for this to happen during the week of March 12-16th depending on weather.

I will be completely stripping a several late '71-'73 240Z rust buckets, a '83ZXT and cutting out some patch panels.

So pulling the harness is in the plan, I kinda figured you might be headed to your announcement...

I will send you all of the engine harnesses, and label them as to vin and mfg date, and try to keep even the damaged ones intact for your research.

Ther is only one series one up there, and it has the harness I would like to get back.

I will PM you a list before sending all of it to you so I don't send things you don't need.

Will

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Hey Andrew,

Your switches and harness's are done and will be shipped out in about a half an hour. I put all the parts that I had to replace in a bag for your inspection.

You mentioned that your turn signal switch worked great but when I went to clean the Hi/Low beam switch contacts, the PC board crumbled in my hands. Looks like I got it just in time. No problem though, I had a spare one to replace it with. Every thing looks great and it's on it's way back home.

Thanks for your order and business,

Dave.

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