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Fuel injector Prob. 77 280z


jagnew3

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I thought that was the one, btw...the windshield wipers work great! I picked up a fuel pressure regulator today for $77.99, and have a pump comming. Iguess with the fuel system..in the end, it's better to know exactly what you have. It's a bit salty, but after looking at the parts over the weekend, pirce of mind is worth it.

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Got the fuel pump in, but my press. reg. didn't come yet. Runs a bunch better, but still showing 32 on the gauge. Maybe the gauge is not correct. It runs good, but still feels like it's not getting a full load of fuel. But it never once stumbled. So that is progress.

I'm chasing an electrical grimlin now. It seems the the fusable link( the one in front) (wire closest to the fender) is overheating. I pulled it off, and nothing happened (except my finger got burnt,LOL) I did notice the voltage fluctuation seemed more profound, when accessories were turned on. Also the lights would become very dim. I cant find my diagram so as of now I don't know if the two are related. I put about 30 miles on it tonight...and went up to 70...it felt great. Thanks again for your help. Any ideas on the f link....

Totally unrelated, but life as I know it changed today.....I bought a freakin' mini van...:(...I think the Z is cool enough to keep me going)

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Thanks, the only two things I have changed are the fuel pump, and I removed the seats and noticed the plug for the p brake was un hooked, the light still does not come on. I wonder if it was unplugged for a good reason. I could tell the link had been hot before, but it hadn't got hot since I've had it til last night.

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disconnected the parking brake indicator light switch and 'viola! The new 80 amp fusible (notice I learned to spell it) link did not get hot...at all, hooked it back up..hot hot hot, so there is a short to find someplace. Voltage was a lot more stable with that link re installed...but as you know one thing leads to another..LOL the pressure..which has always been stable while the car waited for me to come back..was down to 20 after about 12 hrs..so it's bleeding someplace, and, as you noted earlier..the regulator is my suspect. the pressure is still a bit low...and it's bleeds off at rest..my new one did not come yet:(..but I eagerly await it's arrival.

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You might want to remove the spark plugs after the pressure bleeds down to see if you have leaky fuel injectors.

Also: There are four white wires running from the fusible link boxes that join together in some wierd factory splices. These corrode and cause problems similar to what you're describing. Great time to upgrade your fusible link box.

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Well gents..this baby is killing me. Drove gently for about 25 mi this weekend, and she was good. Stomped it for the final leg of the trip, and then she acted rough. Pulled into the driveway..it started to sputter. I poped the hood and watched my pressure dwindle to nothing..then it died, and the pressur sat on 0 til I drig it in the garage with the riding mower. Then I tripped the air flow shutter, pressure came up and it ran good again.

So today I put the new fuel regulator on thinking I was really on to something. Fire up..sounded smooth as ever..went around the block no trouble,,pumched it..saw black smoke,,started running rough..pulled into the driveway...and putt putt putt...watched the pressure go to 0..car died...and never could get pressure. I can hear the pump run, when I trip the air flow shutter..but no pressure..It was still bleeding off to someplace..could an injector hanging up I guess...but I can't figure why it goes to 0 in the middle of a good run. It's killing me..LOL

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Just went out to the garage, opened the air flow shutter.....fuel pump came on..ran for a second..then the pressure came right to 36...then dropped off when I closed the shutter..open the shutter 36..close in 20..open 36..close 20 etc...start it up psi to around 34 while running..and running good?

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