The auction says it's for 70+ Z cars, but don't 70-71 cars have a different clutch? I thought that because of the metal fan they had a different clutch to handle the weight.

Not really on topic, since the car in question is 76, just satisfying my own thirst for knowledge.

Exactly Stephen, I too speak from experience Just ask any Z owner that has made the mistake of purchasing an aftermarket Fan Clutch. Or hell even do a search on any Z Car Site. You will find that they were returning them to there local parts stores like Checker, Autozone ect. over and over again with much disappointment and anger. Then they finally get sick and tired of repeating the repair a few times and get a Factory Nissan Part and are finally done with it.

I understand being a teenager your budget doesn't allow you to do all the things your heart desires which is why I stated in my last post that it's just my opinion and do what your budget allows and if thats all your budget allows is aftermarket than go for it. you can only do what you can do on a tight budget. My point though is that certain things wheather your budget allows for it or not, aftermarket just flat out is NOT acceptable and what should have been a simple project in the first place will end up causing you more pain and frustration and money in the end because the aftermarket part keeps failing miserably. The Fan Clutch for example is one of the items that falls into this category. You can go ahead and try an aftermarket Fan Clutch. I'm not at all trying to tell you what to do with your Z. However, just be aware that you may end up doing this job more than once which will result in you saying not so nice language as the aftermarket Fan Clutches (in my experience with Z's) are known to fail shortly after you install them.

About your tranny fluid and differential fluid being in question, I would highly recommend just changing it with new, clean fluid. It's probably not only low, but god knows when it was last changed? I know your probably thinking "Here he goes again" but it's just cheap insurance. You don't want to be shopping for a tranny and differential next :paranoid:

I'll just shut up now Take care man and do what you can and remember, we are always here to help you if you need it

LaterZ

Thanks for the ebay info guys, but it's a little late now. :dead:

... Actually I think the 280's had their own special fan clutch... though I believe a number of 260's got 'em if they were manufactured near enough to the end of '74.

Well.. budget aside, I know you guys are right...

OEM Fan-clutch looks like it'll run me about 91 dollars

Whereas a "Hayden" brand one from Checker is 49.99, with lifetime warranty...

other brands are things like "Ready-Aire" and "Flex a Lite" for 48.99 and 74.99 respectively...

I think I need more info before I get into this... and from the looks of things (examines the thermometer), I have lots of time to figure it out... Minnesota isn't Arizona or Florida or Cali... it's very rare that the temperatures get much past 100 degrees during the summer... in this regard, would having a "botched" fan clutch be as big a deal?

...and before someone reiterates, I really don't want to rebuild the current clutch and here's why:

The workspace I'm going to use isn't my space to begin with... and this fan clutch thing is coinciding with a radiator drop 'n' swap... (actually it's more of a radiator 'lift' I suppose...) I basically need to be in and out of this garage in a day, and I think, for a newbie, trying to include a fan clutch rebuild on top of a radiator project could be pushing my luck...

Actually that reminds me, where exactly is the drain plug for the engine coolant on the block itself? Haynes manual doesn't show it.

It can still get damn hot here in the summer. Remember how hot it got this last summer? Humidity makes it feel much worse and when your in traffic. Yes, a good OEM Fan Clutch is money well spent. leaving the bad Fan Clutch in is asking for more expensive problems but anyways, the drain on the block is located on the drivers side. It's pretty hard to miss. I'd take a photo for you but unfortunately my Z is in storage for winter

BTW, 72-83 Non turbo all used the same Fan Clutch. 70-71 240's were different

w resulting in could having a "botched" fan clutch be as big a deal?

Since the fan clutch is connected to the water pump, continuing to run it in this "frozen" condition will accelerate the wear on the pump shaft bearing resulting in coolant leakage and ultimately premature failure of the pump. Replace it as soon as you can or drive it as little as possible until you can.

Oh no, I wasn't meaning to imply that I'd continue to drive with the "frozen" clutch, I meant a cheap, aftermarket one...

but yeah... I guess paying 70 dollars for an "OEM" one from ZcarParts.com isn't sooo bad...

Also... should I be looking into taking on the the thermostat as well? As far as I know, that's something that gets checked/replaced when the radiator is replaced...

I can make assumptions, but what are the official differences between 192/180/160 degree thermostats?

that extra strain on the water pump shaft can also cause the shaft to let go and launch the fan into your new radiator.

drain plug is on driver's side just below rear of the exhaust manifold. look for a big 22mm bolt. kinda high up for a drain plug.

be sure to soak the thermostat bolts with PBlaster or penetrating oil. they are prone to snapping.

......I can make assumptions, but what are the official differences between 192/180/160 degree thermostats?

We have debated that in the past. My opinion is use the 180. This also and item that I insist on OEM. You can run aftermarket as long as it has the larger opening that a Nissan thermostat has. Many of them don't. A cooler thermostat doesn't make the car run cooler. It just make it take longer to warm up. The hotter one is actually a bit above an L engines normal operating temperature.

Yep, go with the 180 degree T Stat. and yes get a Factory one

Courtesy Nissan has them for $10.04

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=21200-S30Z

Another pointer- Make certain you get all of the old gasket off before installing the new one and be careful not to scratch the surface where the gasket sits when removing the old one

BTW, Thermostats need to be replaced when needed. Not only when replacing a radiator

Thanks for the link, I'm gonna get on that soon.

Thermostats need to be replaced when needed. Not only when replacing a radiator

Well yeah, but if I went to all the trouble of replacing the radiator and fan clutch and didn't even bother to address the thermostat, wouldn't that border on ignorance? The t-stat looks like a twenty minute job compared to the involved labor of removing and replacing the radiator, and possibly the fan clutch... for which I still have not found removal instructions. Hrm...

But Yeah. :cheeky:

No, I agree you should do it. Might as well since you got all the coolant drained. Just was pointing out that it needs to be serviced more frequently and not only when replacing a radiator.

You don't have a factory Service Manual? I'd get one as soon as you can. Courtesy has them on CD ROM. Try a search on this site and if you still can't find any instructions, then I could probably send you an e-mail with some details on "How to". I won't be able to tonight though. Have to work in the morning

Good luck

By the way, for a radiator replacement / thermostat, you don't need to drain the block; when you disconnect the bottom main hose to the radiator it will drain most of the fluid out...no need to wrestle with the engine drain.

The thermostat is a good analogy to the fan clutch--pay for factory so you don't have to do it again. Anything other than factory thermostat you're just gambling with having to take it back out...I've had nothing but problems with thermostats from NAPA/Schucks, etc.