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2 hole is dead, What to do?


cremmenga

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My 2nd cylinder had low compression, the guy that looked at it said you thought the piston ring from sitting for 2 years was not good. I got it to run and drive finally. The dual webers need rebuilt I think, it was doing alot of spitting and sputtering, not much power, most of the time! Please tell me what you think I should do, are the webers easy/cheap to get rebuilt, and what about the 2nd hole, how much $$$$ do you think it will take? Thanks guys!!

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You need to find out if it rings or valves, or both, and address the real problem. Once you know what it is(the FSM addresses how to tell the difference-it is probably covered in the archives here as well) you can choose to have the problem corrected with your existing parts if possable, or search for used parts without the problem.

Addressing the webbers will need to be done, but unless a part came loose from them and fell in #2, they are not the source of this problem. Rebuilt them, but fix the other situation first(or at the same time). Rebuild kits are more expensive and harder to locate than the su kits, and not as well doccuments(ZTherapy has a gret SU video), but are available.

Will

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Anyone ??

first off , have you done a compression or leak down test ? If the engine has reasnonable compression , and it has been setting for a few years , drive it some before you start tairing into it. Then do another compression check , look at the oil and the coolent and see if the oil is water free. Do you know how to adjust the valves ? If new to this , the first time do it on a cold engine. If you are going to error do it on the loose side not tight. And do the valve adjust before tearing into the engine and doing the secound compression check. Now if the compression shows all within 10% each other drive it and enjoy the ride . If you have one cylinder that is way down , put some oil , a teaspoon full , and test that one again and see if there is a change and how much. If the compression comes up a lot , the problem is a valve, By the way how many miles on this engine ? It may just be tired and needing a rebuild. Or if you are lucky a valve job. If the engine clears up after driving it a stuck ring . So , the best to you . Gary this is my 2cts

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WOW thanks alot Gary,your advise is a major help. First off my engine has about 75000 miles on it. It had been sitting for i think about atleast 2 years. Like i said it runs but is spits and sputters, I know i need the carbs rebuilt , and It seems to get smoothing running the more i run it. when i do run it it spitts and sputters and sometimes shoots a ball of fire out the carbs. I think the rebuild on the webers will help that alot. As for the rest i''ll check compression, and all of that, but i hope its just the valves which I'm pretty sure are far off!! Thanks alot for you help, hope to hear from you soon!

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Depends on where you live and the availability of a mechanic that knows Webbers. Now days finding some one that knows carbs at all is not as easy as it used to be. The average cost around where I live is about $50.00 an hour. I cant help you with Webbers but there are a few members that have them. The rest of a tune up is a simple matter. Do you have a shop manual ? If not you need one and a uni-sun to ballance the carbs .

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well i think i found someone to rebuild the carbs. The question is, do i try to adjust my valves, or take it to have the mechanic downtown do them and charge me both legs and an arm for that and then the other for something he'll make up that really doesn't need replaced. I have read and I think i'll start out adjusting them cold and see how that goes. I bought the gappers today, i know cold is .008intake .010 exhaust and hot is.010 intake and .012 exhaust. I personally don't know how to do this, but it can't be that hard, and if all fails I always have my cousin who went to wyo tech to have help me. I have read all the fourums and they say dont' use new plugs, untill done because they will just get fouled up. Is there any other tips andtricks to this. I hope this will be easy! So what do you think should i give it a try?

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Go ahead. The procedure for adjusting the valves is well outlined in the FSM and in the Chilton/Haynes manuals. Remember, a little too loose is better than a little too tight. That's how we learn. I had no clue when I did my first L series valve adjustment but the more I did them the easier it became. As for the carbs, if they are the DGV type shown in your avitar, I feel that they are easier to adjust than the DCOE sidedrafts. Get a book. I have one that is a Weber carb book that covers all types of Webers. We're in the process of moving and it's packed away somewere so I can't tell you the actual name of it but do a search on Weber carbs and you should be able to find it.

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The book i have is (datsun 240z & 260z automotive repair manual) I was wondering if anyone can tell me what the name of there factory service manual is, or where i can get one pretty cheap, or the PLU number on the back cover below the bar codes. Thanks

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