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New OEM Engine


st0878

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I just won this engine on ebay. I was getting ready to rebuild my engine until I found this and the guy selling it was just around the corner from me. I went by to check it out. THe story is that this engine came out of a totaled 79 ZX Non-turbo in 1980 with only 1900 miles where it has been in storage ever since. If the external condition is any indicator, this engine is in absolutly mint condition. Every hose, bolt, paint all the yelow cadium is in absolutley mint condition.

My question is what should I consider before I try to start the engine and how will this transplant into a 76z? I know that the head uses the crappy round port exhausts but what might be some of the other incompatabilities?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7948878077&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

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I think you sould start by removing the spark plugs and putting a couple of drops of oil in the cylinders and than hand crank the engine,to help the rings free up.buy a valve cover gasket and remove the valve cover to see whats inside[how clean it is]You'll want to replace the front and rear crank seals

due to age,drain any fluids from the engine any put new oil in.Do you have the ecu,harness,air flow meter and related ignition components? if not you might want to find them.the round port exhaust will work just fine[unless your after serious hp gain].a header will help you.your trans will of course bolt up.as far as clutch any year will work,as long as all the components are from the same kit.the radiator lower hose may need to be played with a bit or you can put the lower hose spout from your 260 engine on and not worry about it.air intake can be worked out by using an aftermarket unit.Throttle linkage can come from a 280Z.

OR

In short the long block alone will work.the only exception being that you will need to buy a header or modify your currant exhaust header pipe to fit.

[not recommended] Don't forget to build up some oil pressure before you start the engine.

JZM

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Thanks JZM! Actually I have a 76 280z so I think that the existing AFM, wiring and computer should work. Do you think that if there was fuel in the injectors that it gummed up? Now thats twice I have heard about building up oil pressure.... Do use a starter switch and just turn the engine for while?

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Thanks JZM! Actually I have a 76 280z so I think that the existing AFM, wiring and computer should work. Do you think that if there was fuel in the injectors that it gummed up? Now thats twice I have heard about building up oil pressure.... Do use a starter switch and just turn the engine for while?

Sorry about the 260 thing I miss read the post :stupid: your engine should bolt right in [exception-exhaust].as far as oil pressure goes.fill the oil filter before installing,if you remove the oil pump for any reason fill it too,after the

engine is installed you can ground the coil wire to the engine block or other ground source and than crank the engine.if you have a manual oil pressure checker/gauge that works best to check the pressure.it's better than waiting for the stock electrical unit to respond.all your really trying to do is get oil to the main and rod bearings before you start the engine.

Does your 76 have an N42 head? if so have it rebuilt and bolt it on your new engine.it's a much better choice.it's also something that you don't have to do right now. oh and the fuel injectors may be gummed a little you can operate them with out running the engine by simply giving them a power and ground zap a couple of times[with some fuel injection cleaner the fuel rail,it won't hurt them]it's just to remove any fuel varnish or you can just try to start the engine and let it run,it should clear itself out.you can also spend some more money and send the injectors out and have them gone through.or you can just use the injectors from the 76 and call it a day. good luck and have fun!

JZM

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Thanks JZM. Yeh my current engine has a N42 head but god this engine is so purdy I hate to strap that old thing on it. I was reading the performance tips on this page (below) and from what he says is that the N42 was designed for dished pistons and it may cause the engine to ping. I think that I'm going to drop in as is and take it for a spin. I'll let you know how it feels in comparison. Referbing the N42 will always be an option. Wonder what would happen if you had a machine shop rip out those liners and port it? I just bought a square port header on ebay a few months ago ... go figure. Here's that site:

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html

Thanks again EZ :smoke:

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As much as I don't want to diddle around with the motor I think I will pull the pan and valve cover to take a look. I could lube everything up at the same time. It should be interesting to know what happens over time anyway. I'll post some pics in a few days.

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