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The C110

Electronic Igniton on 240k

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Gday all,

Ive been on a hunt for a 280zx electronic dizzy for what seems like AGES now...There have been quite a few zx's advertised in Perths local classifeids publication, but all of the owners so far have denied me the opportunity to take bits out of their cars [even $800 unlicenced shitbox examples] such as the distributor. Now i know that the 280c is also endowed with one, and a seller today claimed that later 260c's had them, but these cars dont come up very often either. Would anyone know where i can obtain electronic ignition for a half-decent price [aside from a kit using your points dizzy]?

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The GC210 also runs an electronic dizzy that's where mine is from, although I'm currently back to running points at the moment as I'm waiting for a new cap to arrive (early next week).

But basically most EFI L-series 6's should be able to help, be careful though... if it's got a screw on dizzy cap, you probably don't want it as it has completely different connectors and I'm not sure whether it can be adapted to suit as I believe those ones run off the ECU. Not 100% on that though.

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Thanks Michael! Jeez its probably the most obvious soloution, i didnt even think about the c210. Was the installation of yours fairly simple and straigtforward - or did you take it to an auto electrician?

ps. apologies for the late reply

Tom

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What's a reasonable price? I think allzparts in Sydney has 2nd hand and new ones...

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Hey Tom,

Pretty simple to setup, you rip out your old one and put in the new one, add one extra wire and make sure you've got an appropriate coil for an electronic dizzy, so if you can, take the one from the C210.

There's a diagram floating around the net and probably on here about what you need to do when you replace the dizzy, it's exactly the same as replacing it with the ZX one which is what the diagram/instructions refer to. I had the image somewhere but I can't seem to find it. If you have no luck finding it by searching this website then I'll have a thorough look for it.

-Michael

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Hi There,

I have found the best and cheapest place to get an electronic Dizzy is from a R30 Skyline ('82 to '83) I picked up a complete TI Hatch for $300. A beavy of bits for the 240K. Struts, Front and Rear Disks, Power Steering, EFI, Oh, and the Dizzy!

Cheers.

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Hey Bruce! Welcome to the club :) If you have any pics of the C110 I'd love to see them (as I'm sure a few others are too)!!

A question though - I thought the VIN prefix for the R32 GT-R was "BNR32".. am I mistaken?

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Hello Alfadog,

Thanks, I found this forum a couple of months ago and have been watching Kent's "progress" on his 240 project. I have just picked up a K coupe from Wagga about 2 months ago and don't have some good picks of it yet. I'll be glad to explain my plains for it a little latter. Unfortunatly, it is not as quite as complete as I would have liked and was lead to believe. So there is a bit more scrounging do do.

I have played around with Datsun/Nissans for a few years now and thought it would be nice to share some information.

Hum, BNR, your right.

Regards

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Heeeey, another 240k-ist to join the frey, welcome!

I too would love to see some pics of your car, whether its rough as guts or not! Thanks for the r30 tip, id have never thought. I wonder how easy it is to stick the r30's dizzy in? As you said its the cheapest option probably, as there are still many r30's floating about the place. Your reference to the brakes reminds me; at some stage id like to install 4wheel discs, and the r30 adds another cheap option to the list - originally i had planned for vs commode, er i mean commodore discs as theyre an easy swap (=

Thanks for your help, Michael. Ill have a look around for that diagram, but it sounds pretty self-explaintory. I do intend to get a new sports coil of some sort anyway, as theyre only 60-odd dollars [as opposed to a 25yo possibly unreliable one].

Cheers Gee [im sorry i dont know your real name], ill have to check allparts out. Being in perth, however, is an issue and shipping will come into play. Obviously though, it is much harder to find bits over here in a small city, compared to Sydney.

-Tom

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Bruce, perhaps the Ti hatch is different, but I have also stripped an HR30 coupe for parts and it had a screw on dizzy cap which plugs into the wiring loom with a weird arse plug, if it's possible to use that dizzy without the EFI, that's great, as it means I have a spare dizzy :D, but I'd have thought you would have to use the EFI in order to use that particular dizzy, seeing as there is no control box on the distributor itself ??

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Hey Tom,

Yes the R30 is a great source of parts, I used to keep the secret to myself, but after seeing some many 240Ks butchered for bloody 1600.s I with I have told people earlier ;-( By the way, the Whole R30 strut is inter-changable with the K.s It cannot get much easier than that. As for the rear disks, a you need to have a adaptor plate made. A mate of mine has done it, when I get the tech-drawing, I can provide it.

I live in Melbourne, however, I'm spending a lot of time up in Sydney with Business currently, when I get home I can go thru the relevant information. From Memory, the rear disks on a 280ZX are the same as the rears on an R30 Hatch. (Another Source)

Hey Michael,

Coupes are Different, completely, they often have different wiring standards to all other normals, it also depends on where the Coupe came from. South Africian Coupes are completely different to normal Japanese local deliveries.

As for the Dizzys, there are two different types, both can be used in any application, however there is a better one of the two. It is quite simple to wire and there is no more points to adjust. It gets a little more complicated when using forced induction, but thats another story!

Not sure on the "strange connector" need more detail, normally they have 2 terminals perpandicular to each other with electronic internals behind them (Black and very small). I should have a wiring diagram somewhere, I'll dig it up.

Cheers,

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Hey Bruce,

I've taken a few pictures of the distributor and connectors I was talking about earlier. If this could be adapted to suit, that would be pretty good as it would mean I'd have another spare dizzy ;)

Let me know your thoughts.

It was taken from an HR30 L20E Coupe/Hardtop if that helps?

post-4758-14150794441595_thumb.jpg

post-4758-14150794441886_thumb.jpg

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Hum Michael,

It is different to the unit that comes from either a R30 Skyline or a 280ZX, I have one of each and the terminals are mounted directly on the side of the dizzy. Do you have a Multimeter? It looks like there are three wires on yours? I can probe my ones when I get home on the weekend and see what I get. We could then compare yours.

I'm guessing you need a +ve Supply, relatively heavy cable to go to the -ve side of the coil, earth, but I'm not sure what the 3rd and possible 4th would be? By any chance, did you make notes before removing the unit?

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None other than mental notes.

1. Unplug from wiring loom.

2. Undo bolts.

3. Take dizzy.

LOL

I also have the engine loom, the Y70 head, the fuel rail, the injectors and the L20E ECU. ;)

I can try figure out what colour wires go to which pins on the ECU but other than that doing that, I'm at a loss.

However, I'm sure you can see what I mean now about making sure you don' get the one with the screw-on dizzy cap :D

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Agreed, Screw-Ons, Well Suck !

Try and find the wire that goes to the coil. If there is that much of the loom left. Looking back to the ECU is probably going to do your head in !!! Are the Coil Balist Resistors in this configuration? What it an Automatic or Manual?

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Actually, come to think of it, there was a weird connector on the side of the coil that was unlike anything I'd seen previous, perhaps it all in a roundabout way connects into that... ergh. I'll get a photo of the coil tomorrow for you to take a look.

I'm not sure that it was a ballast resistor, at least not in the form I've seen them before.

EDIT: Oh, and it was a 5speed Manual.

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Agreed, Screw-Ons, Well Suck !

Try and find the wire that goes to the coil. If there is that much of the loom left. Looking back to the ECU is probably going to do your head in !!! Are the Coil Balist Resistors in this configuration? What it an Automatic or Manual?

Steady guys!

The 'screw-on' dizzys are fully electronic optical units. HIGHLY desirable for high-performance motors, as they talk directly to all aftermarket ECU's. You can also fit the Z31 pickup/chopper wheel to get a proper home trigger in addition to the 360+6 setup.

I searched for one of these for ages before getting one from a 280ZXT in the US via e-bay.

I'm sure I could find several buyers for ECCS L-series (C211 Turbo, HR30 Turbo) distributors without too much trouble at all!

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Well, you know where one is Ben, should you need another one. ;) I'll be going the RB route so don't think I'll need it in the forseeable future

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Tom,

I traced out the wiring of the dizzy for you. It's pretty simple.

1) The Brown Wire which connects to the PIN in the Dizzy which points away from the dizzy goes to plus 12 volts. And you might even see a marking under the Pin contact that says "B" for battery.

2) The Blue wire which connects the the Pin which is flat to the side of the dizzy goes to the negative side of the coil. You may see a "C" marked under the Pin for Coil.

3) Last but not least, the positive side of the coil to battery. Now depending on how you car is wired, you should be able to use the existing wire from you coil. Just remember, some cars only power their coils with 8 volts because of a "ballast" resistor.

You new electronic dizzy is not going to run well on 8 volts, so you might have to buy another coil that runs without a resistor. And then simply place a short circuit over the resistor, affectively removing it from circuit and giving you 12 volts again.

Note: You could perform this bypass and run with your old coil, and it will work. For a while ! That is, until you coil burns out ! ! !

Regards,

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Ah many thanks Bruce! Now i understand all of what you have said, and ive nutted out mostly how to do it, but i have a few questions. Firstly, In the picture below of my current non electronic dizzy, there is obviously a pin on the side that leads to the coil. That is fine. However, my current dizzy only has one pin on its side, thus one wire connected which leads to the coil. My question is what wire am i going to use to plug into the pin that reads 'b' for battery on the new electronic dizzy? Its probably a simple soulotion but i cant see it at the moment. Cheers,

Tom

ps, i have zx dizzy which i think does not carry a ballast resistor as you can see

post-7187-14150794492074_thumb.jpg

post-7187-14150794492422_thumb.jpg

post-7187-14150794492678_thumb.jpg

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Tom,

You have to add another wire in, crimp on a spade connector (or two dependant on how you want to attach it to the coil) and wallah!

I found (eventually) the wiring picture I was looking for, even though Bruce explained it.

post-4758-1415079449293_thumb.jpg

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Your getting there Tom,

Connect the existing dizzy wire to the "C" pin and run a new wire from the "B" pin to the "+" side of the coil and you are away.

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Well, both my electronics have the one on the left whereas my points-based uses the one on the right, I don't think it would really matter too much to be honest.

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