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Auto -> Manual, Electrics Query


kyteler

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my gearbox is making a weird noise when travelling 70kms/hr

and I think i posted this before about reversing on slight slope... its kinda slipping wont move at all you have to press the accelerator all the way down before it moves

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Hmm,

I cop the same thing on occasion in my coupe now; auto trans I get that prob in first gear but only before the car is fully warmed up!

I'll be looking for another manual trans soon, miss the sporty feel already!

Sorry I can't offer advice Razor, never been game enough to open up a trans, manual or especially auto.:ermm:

James

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Just out of curiosity Razor, are you sure there's enough fluid in it?

In an Auto you're supposed to check the level with the car running. That's what my mechanic/WoF guy told me anyway and he's been around for a while and knows his stuff.

Just a thought.

Other than that though.. Sorry no Idea.

BTW: I've taken a few more pics and I've kinda started work on the Auto -> Manual Conversion process, it'll be a wee while yet though, I want to try make sure I not everything down, I'd hate to be responsible for missing something out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Kyteler,

which gearbox did you use for your swap? 240K or from a Z?

just wondering which one is better gearbox...

I know if I use the 240K one its definetely a bolt-on job as this was an option for 240Ks, but Z gearbox are easier to find but little more expensive and i heard that its got closer ratio than the 240K?

I'm going to start collecting the parts for the swap as I organised someone to help me with the swap.

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I used a 280ZX 5speed... well, that's what the guy said it was from, but the gears are alot closer together than I remember my brother's 1979 280ZX being.

Any L-series 5speed should be a bolt on job, just make sure it's not a "shorty" box from an R30 6cyl L20A otherwise you'll fall short when you try connect the driveshaft back up. :)

If you can get a 5speed from a 240K, and it's cheaper, I'd probably just go with that and that way you can take all the other bits you need from the car if there's one at the wreckers. pedals, master and slave cylinder, clutch, flywheel. etc. be sure to grab the flywheel bolts too because they're longer than the flexplate bolts that you'll take off. and you'll have to get a crankshaft/spigot bush as well.. which is just a wee sleeve that slots into the end of the crankshaft that isnt there for autos P/N 32202-30000

Oh, and I had to get my brother to borrow a rattle-gun to get the freakin flexplate bolts off.. they were on pretty damn tight, short work for a rattle-gun but hard work on the arms when you're upside down under a car :)

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Yeah, that shouldnt be a problem, just make sure your clutch pressure plate matches the width of surface area on the flywheel.. the ZX 2+2 has a bigger diameter, so to be extra certain you could just try make sure that you get the clutch and flywheel from the one car and just to be sure it fits try sliding the clutch plate onto the gearbox shaft, they should all fit, bt it would be horrible if you spent a few hours trying to line the bastard up only to find out it wasn't going in because the bloody thing didnt fit :)

This page is a bit clearer on the Flywheel situation :)

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

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The 240Z gearbox won't bolt straight up to the K; them gearboxes have an output flange as opposed to 240K/260Z input yoke type configuration.

If you get a 260Z 5 speed, the oil fill up bolt is on the right side of the gearbox when viewed from above, thats the only difference cosmetically anyway.

Good 2nd hand 5 speeds are hard to get, an easy bet would be a 240K 4 speed; tough as nails.

James

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