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tension kit


Daniel

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Doing some spring cleaning and found a tension compression kit.Has anyone used one?Is there any difference in steering?The unit was to have a preload gauge and instructions.I am missing both. Can anyone help?Also I found front and rear suspension tech. swaybar kit.My car was one that did not come with the rear sway bar brackets installed. I have the brackets but,need a photo of the correct location.Measurements would be great .Thanks guys! Daniel

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You won't notice so much of a difference in steering but it will help any of the little shakes you get under braking. I did so many other things to mine when I changed mine over it would be impossible to tell you what the difference is.

Somewhere in my tool box I have a gauge and the instruction. I'll try to look for them and if nothing else I'll give you a copy in a PM or post. Just have to find them first. The gauge is nothing more than a thin piece of aluminum to measure the distance beltween the mounting washers to gauge the pre-load on the bushings.

Can't help you on the sway bar, sorry.

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The end links I believe should be pretty close to the same. About the only difference I have heard of is the bushings on some kits evidently are thicker requiring longer links. Most of them I have seen are just a long bolt with a sleeve to separate the bushings and washers.

I'll get out to the shop tomorrow and see if I can find those instructions and the gauge.

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Well Daniel, I can't find the instructions so I'll try to do this by memory.

After you remove the t/c rod mounting nut at the frame mount unbolt it from the control arm and remove it altogether. If your kit has the rubber boot put this on the rod first, then the delrin bushing, then the aluminum cup. (I believe there should be a large flat washer that goes on before the delrin bushing), put the rod into the frame mount and reverse the order. You want the aluminum cup to sandwich the frame mount with the flat against the frame. Put your nut on and then mount it back to the control arm before you tighten it up. The gauge has an opening of 2 1/4 inches, so all you need to do it tighten the mounting nut until you have 2 1/4 inches (outside measurement) between the flat washers.

You should notice an improvement in your steering response since you are getting rid of any control arm movement. And it should help any wandering under braking (if you have any) so hope that helps. Have fun! And go get dirty!

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Well, as usual my memory failed me when I made that last post. I found a new t/c kit in my shop so I read the directions and sure enough I have it bass-ackwards! It is the Plastic or delrin socket you want to sandwich the t/c rod mount NOT the aluminum cup.

So the order is rubber boot, 12mm flat washer, aluminum cup, plastic socket then the opposite on the backside. I can scan the directions if you want and send you a copy. In the directions it says to bolt it to the control arm last but I find it a lot easier to tighten the mounting nut if you bolt it to the control arm then tighten the mounting nut.

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Well, it isn't really necessary when you are just changing the T/C bushings since the only thing that might change is your caster, which is technically non-adjustable from the factory. However, you may find a slight toe problem depending on how bad your stock T/C bushings are. You could end up with a little too much toe-in if the front end was a lined up when the T/C bushings were bad. I would at least have the toe-in checked soon, especially if you notice any difference in the way the car handles. Of course if you replace the tie rods when you do this then the point is moot.

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