Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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- 17 replies
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Hey guys. I purchased a '76 280Z that had sat for a long time, although it has been driven some the last few years. I am in the process of changing out all the fluids and filters and such and have run into a problem with keeping the car running. Some backgropund info on what has been accomplished so far. I have changed out the brake fluid, coolant, oil and filter, differential fluid, with only the automatic transmission fluid to go. A few weeks ago the car began to sputter and then quit. Fortunately it quit as I pulled back into the driveway (had to push it into the garage though). When restarting the car again it ran real rough for about 2-3 seconds and then quit. …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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- 11 replies
- 7.2k views
So I decided to start a new thread under the fuel injection section because its not related to the electrical section where I resurrected a thread from the dead. 280, I realize this thread is several years old but this where i got at by >searching< Im having the the same problem. I had a buddy of mine put his finger on the inlet of the fuel pump and he only felt suction while cranking. I tested all the fusible links inside the passengers compartment and all have continuity. With the key on the on position I held open the afm flapper and the fuel pump ran. I dont want to crank the car since its night but tomorrrow morning i will test some more. With the fuel pump rel…
Last reply by cozye, -
- 0 replies
- 1.4k views
I have been looking for some diffrent things to do to my 78 280 and i have been looking at the ITB kit that zcc has for sale. Im wondering if anybody has used them? Is it going to be worth the price to use them? PFCsilvey
Last reply by silvey19k, -
- 4 replies
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Hi All: I am getting close to getting my stroker project running, and am planning to use the 280ZX Turbo AFM that I got with the engine (someone else's project once upon a time). I am swapping the NA electrics into the Turbo AFM, but have noticed two problems, one of which I can solve with solder (differing wire/lead lengths). The other problem is that the '75 has a fuel pump switch tied to the AFM. This means there is a switch on the circuit board and a piece on rotating arm that opens a circuit if the AFM 'door' is closed. The problem is that the Turbo AFM rotating arm piece has a different center diameter for the mount, so I can just swap them and make it all work…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 3 replies
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First off, I have read the fuel injection bible, and searched for about 2 weeks now with no solid answer as of yet... Here is the issue... The car runs rich at all times, warm, cold, you name it. Does not smoke black. Smokes a little grey at times. Idles lopey as though it has a cam (it may for all I know, engine came from a racing zcar that was wrecked I'm told). Will idle ok, and drive for about 20 miles with new plugs. It will then foul the plugs and die will not start again for a few hours. Upon starting, it will barely idle, and will not run well enough to move more than a few feet. Replacing the plugs starts the cycle anew. Inspection of the plugs reveals a heavy …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 4 replies
- 2.3k views
78 280Z, 9000 miles on engine rebuilt to stock. Only mods are twice pipes and K+N air intake. While wiping down and inspecting my engine bay I noticed the plastic portion of my original Cold Start Injector (CSI) was slightly loose where it met it's metal base. I've gone too far under the hood to stop now, so I ordered a replacement, although I tempted fate by getting one from Ebay... The new CSI has it's fuel inlet in the correct alignment, however the fuel nozzle (where it enters the intake manifold) is shorter than my original, and the fuel outlet is straight down instead of aft, like my original. I installed it anyway, and the car runs fine through its warm-up cycle, b…
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
- 6 replies
- 1.8k views
Hey guys, thanks for taking the time to help me on this issue. I looked at a lot of posts and I just need some general guidance not sure where to start. So I'll tell you the story what happened... My 1975 280z has been running great since I bought it about 2 years ago. Drive it pretty much every week at least a couple of days or more. Changed the spark plugs about 4 months ago which helped the performance a little bit and a k&n filter. That is probably the only thing that is aftermarket on the engine. It all happened after I changed the thermostat. It wasn't letting the coolant in so I replaced that. Probably was overdue. For a couple weeks of driving it would idle ki…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 24 replies
- 5k views
I have been trying to track down the cause of my stalling problem i have been having when i come to a stop. FastWoman has been helping me get this far, tried cleaning the cold start valve and replaced coolant temp sensor, but need to post some pictures to identify where these two attach, to determine if they could be part of the problem. I think the harness attached to the thermotime switch (which has been disconnected). Does anyone know where the vacuum hose could have been connected to ?
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
- 3 replies
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I searched all over for this info, forgive me if I missed it. I'm looking to confirm the exact size on the fuel hose used for the fuel pump feed and exit to damper and hardline. I found this picture on AtlanticZ to demonstrate what I'm talking about: I'm looking to get both of the hose sizes represented here. I'm pretty sure it's 3/8", and 5/16", but I'd just like to be sure before I tear it down and empty the lines. I'm doing a Walbro GSL392 inline setup like this using the stock bracket: Thanks in advance.
Last reply by 503Alex, -
- 4 replies
- 1.8k views
Some of my near term projects will be to reinstall my gas tank, it is being cleaned boiled, acid washed, sealed, etc. Very soon now I will have it back. And then I have a new bosch fuel pump to install, new inline fuel screen between tank and pump (because the one inside the gas tank got eaten up by the acid I am sure), install new fuel filter, and new injectors too. I also purchased new replacement fuel and fuel injectioon class hoses for the rear of car and engine compartment. I also plan on carefully taking off the fuel rail and soaking it with carb cleaner before sticking in new injectors. My gas tank was totally polluted with a LOT of rust. Im talking about 1/2 de…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 4 replies
- 1.3k views
Hey everyone. I have a 1980 Datson 280ZX that wont start. It was running great untill one day I went out to start it and just fired up for about 3 or so seconds and then died.. If I let it sit for a few minutes and then try again, it will do the same thing--start for a few seconds then die. So I am thinking two possble problems, either fuel pump or the relay switch. I would have just assumed the pump was the problem, but I have done some reseach and this relay switch keeps coming up in the search results, so I thought Id ask someone who knows. Any other possible problems I am leaving out? I have tested with a test light and verified that there is voltage (when the key…
Last reply by justin23, -
- 6 replies
- 2.2k views
Some background: I had a recent "event" where the engine shot nearly to WOT at turn of the key (without using accelerator pedal). I shut down the engine, restarted and the car ran like cr*p. Low,rough idle. Missing,poor throttle response. Exhaust smoke like a crop duster. I was only a few miles from home, so I gambled and drove it home, bucking and complaining the whole way. Next day, long story short, I discovered the vane in the AFM was stuck in full open. Touched it and it closed by it's spring power. Cleaned it carefully and it seemed to operate smoothly over the range of movement but it would occasionally stick at the full open position. I put everything back toget…
Last reply by FastWoman,
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