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882993md last won the day on November 14 2017

882993md had the most liked content!

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About 882993md

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    Rockville, MD
  1. SU carb-correct screw adjustment?

    Hi, i don’t have a servo diaphragm so my #13 is not connected to anything. I”ll order the rod. Thank you. Howard
  2. Hi: I'm reading the carb tuning how-to's on this site and I realize I may be turning the wrong screws and going around in circles. My setup does not have any emissions from (#1 to #6 and #13) in the diagram, so I have four screws I may adjust #8, two #10's and #14 (excluding the mixture nuts but I understand how they work). Adjust idle fuel and balance: I don't know what the screw at #8 is called but I'm supposed to disconnect the ball and socket there or back off the screw? Then I use the individual screws at #10 to balance air flow and by disabling front/rear. Should #14 be backed off the tab? Off-Idle Fuel and Balance: Turn the fast idle screw to 3,000 rpm. Is this the screw at #14? When at 3,000 rpm do I use the #10 screws to balance and by disabling front/rear? Any help is appreciated. Thank you. Howard 1974 260z
  3. I got them from the Z store. ($37.95 each-ouch!) Howard
  4. Hi guys: I want to provide an update on the replacement rockers. I installed four new rockers and adjusted the valves cold then I let the car idle for a hot valve adjustment. Great news the tapping is gone and it's just regular valve train noise now! Howard
  5. Thanks Zed. Am I ok with reusing the lash pads? They look fine and have consistent wear across their surfaces for all 12. Howard
  6. It looks good. It appears the rocker took most of the wear. Howard
  7. I have a tapping sound that seems to originate from the valve train. Used a big screwdriver handle to my ear and it was coming from somewhere in the middle portion of the valve cover. I adjusted my valves three times and the tapping persisted. There is a thread on hybridz about a valve train tapping and several people found that the portion of their rocker that contacted the lash pad was contacting the side of the lash pad and not the middle. I thought I was in the same situation so I removed all my rocker arms. This is what I found: Rocker #8 has a groove that is huge. Also the lash pad for #8 has lopsided wear. I posted a thread a few days ago about finding all my passenger side camshaft bearing bolts totally loose. I guess this is the result of unsecured cam shaft bearings. I carefully inspected my cam lobes and they look and feel perfect. I am going to order a replacement rocker and lash pad on Monday. Will I have issues since I am not replacing my cam? I also carefully inspected all the rocker arms and they are perfect except for #6 and #10. They have almost indistinguishable lines that are hard to capture on camera. They are perfectly smooth to the touch and their lash pads have perfect wear. Howard 1974 260z
  8. CamTower 12mm bolt torque question

    It has an N42 head so someone (before I bought it) forgot to tighten the bolts after the head swap as all were hand loose. Howard
  9. CamTower 12mm bolt torque question

    I’m curious about the shorter bolts that share space with the head studs. Why have them at all if the head stud is torqued to 60 lb/ft on that side? Possibly to keep the cam bearing in place if you pull off the head is my guess?? Howard
  10. CamTower 12mm bolt torque question

    Thank you Howard
  11. Hi: I found my cam tower bolts on the passenger (higher) side loose. I torqued them to 13 ft lbs. My question is what about the driver side cam tower bolts that share the same space as the head stud bolts? I checked and they are tightened very tight. Are the driver side anchoring in the engine block or the head? Should I loosen them and retorque to 11-13 ft lb? Thanks. Howard ’74 260z
  12. Thanks everyone: It's freezing inside my garage and instead of trying to rush to adjust the valves I'm going to set them cold (until I get better and faster). Howard
  13. I was forced to install the Camaro steering wheel as I have a mullet.