Jarvo2

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About Jarvo2

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    Plainfield, IL

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  • Occupation
    ITIL Problem Manager

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/
  1. This is a video of my 240z once it was tuned & running perfectly (post engine rebuild). VacGauge.MOVVacGauge.MOV
  2. No vacuum leak, but rather a health check for the engine. You can very easily tell if you have a leaking valve, carb's out of sync, broken ring, bad timing, blown headgasket, etc. Please see below:
  3. Several other items to check on your quest for idling without RPM dropping... How is your fuel pressure? Have you actually checked it with the engine running once its warmed up? I plumbed in a cheapo gauge and am getting A steady 2.0 GPH out of my electric pump, which is right where it should be for carburetors. Could your pump be pushing more fuel then your needle valves can support within the float bowls & making the carbs run ultra rich at idle? At cruising speed, it wouldn't be noticeable as the fuel is getting burnt at higher RPMs. How is your engine vacuum? Again, plumbed in a cheapo gauge into my balance tube & am able to confirm the health of the engine very quickly at idle and higher RPM. Reference https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GM5FPXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. Yes, remove it. Its the pre-heater for the airbox to be used in colder climates (look at the summer/winter flapper on the orange airbox). This is what it looks like once its off. It probably isn't doing any harm, but isn't doing any good either for your situation.
  5. Have you ever considered getting a used head with the stock cam and having it rebuilt by a reputable local engine shop? I still think the root cause of this problem is the California Datsun / Datsun parts LLC engine and head combination that you're running. You're throwing good money at bandaids and not fixing the cause of the overheating. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  6. This is one of the best ones I've seen! https://zcardepot.com/tools/carburetor-float-sync-tool-su-240z.html
  7. Dr. Googles says "Mufflers deal with temperatures that range between 300 and 500 degrees fhreneheit. Due to the intensity of heat produced by an engine's emission system, most exhaust systems are built to handle an excess of 1,200 degrees. In addition, Gasoline exhaust gases burn in the range of 1,000 to 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit."
  8. These spacers are available in the 4x4 world all over the place for raising (leveling) a truck out. I've heard great things about the billet spacers & am looking at a set for my xterra, although I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I would have to think that this will resolve the problem you face with the rear sitting lower in the 280z
  9. The air galley is the device that the smog pump pushes fresh air into the exhaust manifold with. Most of them are leaking or damaged by now.
  10. The popping on deceleration is unburnt fuel leaving the combustion chamber into the exhaust system & combusting (burning) due to the heat in the exhaust. I solved mine by removing all of my smog gear, capping off the air galley and leaning out the carbs. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. I have the MSA stock manifold kit and really love it. Sounds much better than my twice pipe setup and bolted up nicely.
  12. I'm not using my Altima spare & happy to let it go for $50, located in Chicago for anyone local.
  13. I have a first generation Nissan Altima donut that works well. Its thin enough so it should clear the bigger brakes. Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-97-Nissan-Altima-OEM-temporary-spare-rim-tire-donut-wheel-125-70-15-/192039515577?fits=Model%3AAltima&hash=item2cb67275b9:g:WlgAAOSwEzxYPHzU&vxp=mtr
  14. I'm still of the opinion that its your hot cam from California Datsun. Get a stock head that's rebuilt to factory specs.
  15. I'm hoping you've referenced the attached fuel system modification guide, right? Just one of the many bits of documentation that I've collected over the years. Fuel-1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf