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Showing results for tags 'air conditioning'.
Found 6 results
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Are there any factory instructions or diagrams of the dealer installed A/C evaporator unit? I've read most of the threads on A/C and there doesn't seem to be any reference in the FSM nor is there any photos of people removing/repairing the evaporator and fan. I did see a pretty good write up of how the controls move the flaps and valves around. I'm planning to revive my dealer installed A/C and don't know if I should rework it all or just go with a new Vintage Air unit. This is a pretty good write up but it's more than ten years old. Does the Vintage Air unit just bolt right in? It's difficult to tell. The A/C and heater controls don't seem to be well documented unless I just haven't found it. Vintage Air install -
I'm In the process of back together my A/C system and have a few questions. First off, I have the drier that the flare fittings are right next to each other and not offset like the 33286 drier. Since I have this type, can I just use a direr from a 280zx? And if I do will it have the pressure switch? Second, I believe it will be easier in the long run just to use R134a so what all needs to be done to prep for this? I have no clue what the state of the system from my car was because the PO took it apart... Also I went ahead and picked up another full system off of another Z to replace some of the mangled and seized copper tubes. -
Hi, right now i am in the process of fixing all small issues with my Fairlady. Since you guys already helped me I want to try my luck a second time. I had a look at the vacuum lines and to me they seem to be set up in a weird way. The car is a '78 280Z with a 280ZX engine (L28E F54 block with P79 head) converted to Ztherapy SU carbs and original AC. The engine runs fine apart from a slight fluctuation in idle speed (every 3-5 second it goes up from 800rpm to maybe 840rpm and then back down again). I checked all the FSMs to use the correct terms in my drawing and I added three pictures of the current situation. Especially the wrong plumming of the servo diaphragm and control valve +the missing connection to the carbon canisters vacuum signal line seems odd to me. If i understand the original piping correctly then I would expect that the servo diaphragm is doing nothing in this setup (have to check if it moves during let go of the throttle) and that the carbon canister is only doing its job in 'idle mode' due to the bypass mentioned in the haynes manual (because the valve for the purge line is never opened by the vacuum signal line). Another point is the missing of the EFI specific FCID. The AC is not working at the moment so i don't know if the car runs fine without raising the idle rpm. I wonder if it would make sense to pipe the FCID magnet valve to the control valve to use it as a 'carb FCID'? My overall question to the experts is 'Do i need to be concered about this vacuum setup (do i need the servo diaphragm/carbon canister to do their work) or is this maybe a clever solution?' Thanks in advance for your time and help. Picture 1: Picture 2. Picture 3.
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I have a '75 280Z that has the ARA dealer installed AC. The car was dis-assembled when I got it and I am trying to put it back together. I have all the major components but am missing the AC control switch and the thermal switch. Any power switch should work but the therrmal switch for cycling the compressor may be another matter. Does anyone know where I can find this switch and how does it install in the evaporator box? Is this an item that can be found at any AC shop or is it specifically calibrated to the 280Z evaporator? Any help would be appreciated! Brad
