Phacade

I recently came across some Z parts and bought them, took what I needed and need to sell the rest. I have: Hooker coated headers, 6-2, gc, $75 Two 15" wheels, black, Spider web design, ec, $100 Heads, with valves, cams, etc. I have four sets, most N47. Best offer. Wiring harness, Fuel injection parts, interior parts. Best offer. Heater core, blower motor. Best offer. Dash cap. ec. $50 RUnning condition L28, EFI, complete. 82K. Best offer. Lights, gauges, lens. Best offer. Just about anything else in between, mostly 280Z parts.

Well I plan to put my '73 up for sale soon. Lets see, it has a rebuilt L28 from an '81 280ZX, near flawless interior (minus the cracked dash). 5-speed from the same '81 280ZX. Engine as Z therapy SU carbs, Motorsports 6-1 headers, dual exhaust, eletronic ignition. Interior is rare tan and exterior is canfdy apple red. Carpet looks great, seats look brand new from 1973. Outlaw II style rims. Great car. But I cannot keep both Z's. I am asking $5000.00 ( I have over $15K invested). You can call at 918-382-0057. Tulsa

Well I will certainly try it. It was kinda weird though, was driving just fine then it was like it was underwater.

My Z as of late sounds like it is running under water. I rebuilt a '81 L28 for my '73 in 2000, SU carbs, headers. Seemed to run fine. I knew it was running rich due to the black crap that seems to collect on the tailpipe (and about every month or so I need to clean my left taillight of that black frost). The engine has about 7000 on her. While driving home last night, was running fine. Al of a sudden the engine tone went down an octive, as if it was running under water. My guess is something fuel related. Maybe timing. Is it possible it just worked its way that far out of timing. My gas milage has been sucking lately anyway, Last carb adjust on the SUs was mid 2000. Any other thoughts?

I'd say somewhere around 250hp. I assume if your going all out you will opt for a little head work while your at it? When I rebuilt my '81F54 block I used a '81 P79 head and it seems to work well, however I have '70 SU carbs from Z therapy. Another thing to ask yourself is the trans, 5-speed. I used a '78 shift handle to clear the tunnel on my '73 240Z and as a result didn't have to cut anything. R200 rear end works well in the 240Z.

A little background: '73 240Z, '81 L28 with dual SU carbs, headers, 4-core radiator. Has run the same temp for over a year, needle dead center between the 'E' and 'M' on the temp gauge. My Z recently started running a little warmer than normal. Just a millimeter or two right on the temp gauge but enough to notice. Now I do have a bit of an oil leak but this should not affect the temp should it? I have been dealing with this oil leak for over a year now and never has the temp came off dead center before. Radiator is new, well last year anyway. Water pump is new, topped off the coolant. Its like just enough to but you, alot! Any ideas here? What would make a Z start running a few degrees hotter?

I got a email saying someone responded to my post the other day and I'm like "When did I post?". Of course this was over a years ago and my Z did run like poop then. Come to find out the cam timing was way off (try 15 degrees). Once she was lined up my Z came to life. I am having a bit of a new problem now though, howbeit a minor one. My Z recently started running a little warmer than normal. Just a a millimeter or two right on the temp gauge but enough to notice. Now I do have a bit of an oil leak but this should not affect the temp should it? I have been dealing with this oil leak for over a year now and never has the temp came off dead center before. Radiator is new, well last year anyway. Water pump is new, topped off the coolant. Its like just enough to but you, alot! Any ideas here? What would make a Z start running a few degrees hotter?

Please accept my apology for not emailing but have had, and am having bigtime computer problems. The carbs do have a manifold, and cross-over valve as well. As they were recently rebuilt I'd like $100 plus whatever it cost to ship them, the manifold and the crossover valve. Sadly, there is no linkage, broke it when I removed it. As far as the wheels are concerned, I have no jpeg, although I did se them in the earlier Motorsport catalog, the one with the blue 280ZX on the front, The have approx 12 3" holes around the centercap, good condition. No cracks, scrapes and look good. I, however, don't like the style. I'd like $100 plus shipping. Or you could pick thrm up if your close to Tulsa OK.

Got some new exhaust on my Z. I'm sure most of you now know what I'm packing from all my posts while building her last year. But for those who dont... 1973 240Z, rebuilt '81 L28 F54 block, P79 head, headers, electronic ignition, 6-1 headers, '70 SU carbs from Z therapy -w- original air box (K&N), '81 5-speed, '81 R200, strut bars front and back, polyurethane soon to be installed. Anycase I got some new exhaust, called twice pipes, from Motorsports this weekend and had a local shop (for those of you in Tulsa, Leons in Sapulpa does GREAT work!) install it. Basically from the collector on the headers it splits into two 1 3/4" piper all the way back to two glass packs. While definatly louder than the stock system, it has a great sound. The engine is also breathing alot easier.

Got a few 240Z parts I need to unload, not really what they are worth so email me if interested. Outlaw II 14x6 rims, great shape. Nothing wrong with 'em just don't like the style. Intake manifold. Weber carbs, with round air cleaners, looks good. Went for the round top SU's myself. taillights, '73, good shape, no cracks. starter '81 alt. '83 taillights. power ant., '81 Ramflo air cleaner for early SU carbs, used for about 2 weeks before getting original air box mechanical fuel pump, '73. New. Put it on to see if it worked but decided to go electrical.

Fuel pump went last night actually, friend across the street wanted it for a '71 GMC (yeah, I thought that was strange too). The rear view mirrior is in good shape, has tan molding I believe, to go with the tan interior. $5 plus shipping should cover it. Louvers are in great shape, black in color. Pity I can't use them on my '73. I paid over $200 for them new but $50 plus shipping is what I expect used are worth (not that they were really ever used, they do just sit there after all). If interested let me know and I will find out what UPS will charge to ship them.

I'll post this in the body/paint forum as well as I am sick and tired of my doors. My '73 240Z has doors that just don't want to click. I have to slam the poop out of them to get them to stay shut all the way. If I simply close them gently or my wife does, it closes but one could jiggle the door maybe 1/2" or so. The solution up until now is to slam it hard, sometimes three or four times, to get it to shut. There has got to be some way to adjust them so you can shut it regularly and it stay shut and not jiggle. Of couse when it jiggles, it will not lock. Please help!! timberwolf@geotec.net

I'll post this in the emergency forum as well as I am sick and tired of my doors. My '73 240Z has doors that just don't want to click. I have to slam the poop out of them to get them to stay shut all the way. If I simply close them gently or my wife does, it closes but one could jiggle the door maybe 1/2" or so. The solution up until now is to slam it hard, sometimes three or four times, to get it to shut. There has got to be some way to adjust them so you can shut it regularly and it stay shut and not jiggle. Of couse when it jiggles, it will not lock. Please help!! timberwolf@geotec.net

L28E, that was Nissans way of saying it was an a-typical L28 with alot of emissions and fuel-injected stuff on her. The good news: According to Nissan, the later L28's were siamesed; meaning they have criss-crossed patterns between the cylinders. In short: it is a much stronger block choice. I read a great article and used much of the info on a particular site (www.mindspring.com/~blittl/ZGarage.html) in buildimg my L28. Unfortunaly his site is down right now due to bandwidth problems. Hopefully it will be back. If not, I have a print out somewhere around the house I can scan. When you pull the engine, you can pull the intake off and chuck it (unless you you plan to stay fuel injected, in which case you have ALOT of mods to do). Get yourself a new intake manifold, balance tube and heat shield from a '70 to '72 model 240Z. '73 has EGR on the crossover and, granted, can be blocked off and used, but looks tacky. Remember, no matter how it runs, the object here is to get that 'whoa!' when you open the hood.

You could always go for the rebulit L28 from Motorsports, but I don't know the quality or anything and it seems a little pricey. That leaves scrapyards. Look in the yellow pages under salvage yards. Finds a wrecked 78-83 Z and get it. You could leave the fuel injection on but you would need to do alot of mods. You have the carbs alreay so I suggest going this route. If you can not finds a wrecker would rebuilding the go to www. autotrader.com and do a search for cheap Z's over the US. Make a trip out of it. Finds something not good enough to salvage in itself, yet good enough to drive back to Canada and strip. You really dont even need to worry about a title if your intentions are just to take what goodies you can off it and roll the rest off a cliff. There really is no substitute for an L28 in your 240Z.

In good condition and for sale: Misc 240Z parts, L-24 engine (no induction), starter, alternator, 4-speed tranny, intake manifold, Weber DGV carbs (x2), EGR crossover valve, Outlaw II style wheels -VGC-, radiator, floormat (x1) Misc 280ZX parts, fuel injection parts, fuel pump, AFM, original Z wheels ('81) with tires (P230-60-14 rear and P220-60-14 front), leather seats, louvers (black), one slightly used '81 280ZX (minus engine,tranny, rear end) but lots of good interior parts and guages look great!, etc. Looking to buy: Rear bumper (good condition) for '73 240Z, dash cover for same car, '70-'73 black interior door panels in decent same.

So where in Illinois are you? I have relatives in Peoria so I know there area fairly well. How does the car look? Drive? What parts are extras? How much are you asking?

I have a '73 that was doing the same thing. I gave up. I rebuilt an '81 L28, P79 head and 54 block with Z therapy round top SU carbs, Motorsport 6-1 headers, Felpro gaskets, K&N filters, etc. It has a few quirks but is for the most part wonderful. I also put in the '81 5-speed. I plan on putting in the R200 rear end later this year. Thats my 2 cents worth. Cost me about $2000 when it was all said and done.

I got my SU carbs from Scott at Z therapy last year. '70 model carbs. He had them already mounted on a polished intake manifold with the crossover valve (NON-EGR). Great communication. I forget to get him my trade but I don't think he wanted my old Webers anyway. Great carbs!!!

The question is; can I remove my oilpan without removing the engine from the car. I have an '81 L28 in a '73 240Z, dual SU carbs mated to a five-speed. When putting the engine together I (oops!) left out the oil runner that helps to hold the gasket to the block. I would like to put it back. Any suggestions? Tips? Thanks in advance.

The story happened right after I bought my '73 240Z. I had done nothing to it at the time, those of you who have read my post know it now has an L28, 5-speed, etc. Anycase one particularly cold February day last year I was coming home from work. I was thinking I needed to do something to my Z and was not certain what as of yet. The L24 spat and spuddered and the 4-speed whined like my ex-girlfriend. I was driving down a residential street during rush hour, my personal shortcut to avoid traffic. Just keeping the car running was difficult so I had been racing the engine a bit, and as a result I guess I was driving to quickly. It didn't help that the residential roads were completly iced over. The road was pretty straight except for one S-shaped bend. I went through the first part fine but lost traction and slammed into the curb (and took out a mailbox). A few hours and alot of colorful metaphors later I had towed it to a friends house who has a garage. The control arms were bent. tie rods bent. Somehow the body and frame seemed fine. Fast forward two weeks later I has rounded up the much needed parts and we began pulling of the bent pieces and putting the good ones on. All seemed to be going well until we got to the last tie rod. Right front. It was fused. We could not seemed to break it loose. The instructions (which in laymans terms said removal of tie rod from 240Z: Remove 240Z from tie rod - too many blasted parts to take off first) were not helping.We tried virtually every tool at our disposal (including a drill, a jack, numerous power tools, 3 cans of WD-40, a chain and a Ford truck, and a firecracker - my wifes idea. Finally as a last resort we got the Blow torth out and started cutting. Who knew WD-40 would be so combustable? I started look quickly for something to put the fire out with and in a panic choose beer. It took about a whole six pack to extinquish my flamming Z, thank God it didnt catch anything else on fire (like the nearby gas line). Now whenever I see my friend, and we have nothing else to do, one of us usually says "Well we can always have a weenie roast on your Z!" ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Lets see, 1978 280Z, black. Correct? One thing I would check out is if it is the '78 'Black Pearl' Z. They made a few that were the 'Black Pearl' Z, and then a few others painted their '78 black. The 'Black Pearl Z is worth a little more than other '78 Z's. Check the papers, you might even get a car fax at www.carfax.com. This will tell you all the history of your purchase. As far as the car goes, give it a general look over before starting. Check undernearth the car, floorboards, fenders, gas tank area, and pull up the floormats (both sides). Your looking for rust. A little can be expected. Southern Z's tend to be a little more rust free than their nothern counterparts. Take a refrigerator magnet with you and check the body for bondo, etc. Before starting look at your wiring. Look for recently replaced wires and question this. This could be a short or a burnout somewhere. Beware of sellers who 'just happen' to have the car running when you get there. I prefer the car to be cold when I arrive. You never know if they spent 30 minutes starting it before you arrived. Open the oil spout (before you start) and stick a piece of white cloth inside with your index finger bent at a 90 degree angle, whipe and remove. Look at the color. Brown = good. Black = need oil change most likely. What you dont want to see is black (or even brown) with spots, shavings or sludge. Could mean engine has been abused or is not running correctly. Check oil level, water, filters, etc. Now start it. A decent Z, fuel injected and all, should start in no less than 5-7 seconds cold. Keep an eye on your gauges. AMP should be a hair to the right of center. Z should idle at 750 to 1200 when cold, although I have seen alot of Z's idle at 1500 cold and come down to between 600 and 900 when warm. When you start, listen to any unusal noises. Starter noise, any clanks or rubbing. Any squealing, etc. Get a good explanation for each and pay less accordingly. Get out and go back to engine. Take the throttle by the white ball and rev engine gently. Listen for same aformentioned sounds. Listen for exhaust leaks. Go to passenger side and look at head gasket. Look for signs of leaks, holes, wear, or goo.Any of the above is bad. If you have a compression gauge you can test the cylinders at this time. When satisfied close the hood. Take note how easy it closes. Difficult close may mean hood was off and therefore may mean extensive work done previously. Put the car in gear. Now is a good time to test the emergency brake. Feel the sponginess of the clutch. I like mine to grab about halfway in. If it is an automatic, get your head examined. Why would anyone want an automatic Z? Start slowly and listen for clanks or any sound other than the engine. Any sound may be rear-end, u-joints, diff mount, etc. Check all gear, you want a smooth shift into each, no grinding, no stiffness. At the same time it should not shift too sloppy either. Make a note of each of the problem areas or potential problem areas. Its time to negotiate. No matter how good a deal or desperate you are; act as though you are just barely interested. Tell seller about what you will have to do to get it roadworthy again. Now shut up. Give the seller time to decide if he wants to come down on his price. Its not personal, its business. Good luck to you. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

How much for a rear bumper in good, and I stree, good shape? Where are you? ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

There is a better way to handle the EGR on the balance tube. I have a '73 240Z, howbeit I have put an '81 L28 in her, rebulit with '70 SU carbs, etc. What I did was to obtain a '70 model balance tube from Z therapy, along with the carbs, of course. If you order it with the manifold it comes pre-assembled. Just bolt it onto your head (after, not before your exhaust) and your off to the races. The '70 model balance tube is different the the one you and I had, no EGR to cap off, not to meantion the brake hose hooks on horizontally, not vertically. Make sure and hook up the PCV (or not, your call). Another good idea here; if you don't have an original air filter box (the orange one), get it. It delivers air more evenly to each carb, and has factory air horns built in. It also pulls more COLD air than other filters do due to the enlongated shape. As far as timing is concerned, do yourself a favor. Upgrade. I simply got an electronic distributor from the donor '81 280ZX, and its coil. Makes timing so much easier. No dwell to set. Ahhh! You need to rewire just a bit. I think I found the settings on the Datsun Z garage site: (www.mindspring.com/~blittl/ZGarage.htm) Alot of good advice here. Away I hope this helps.... ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

This is for the carbs to breath, it hooks up to your airfilter. If you dont have the stock air box, get one. Hook two 5/16" hoses to each and then to the middle of the air box. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu